[TomasLT]

Wires going to oil p sensor he means

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[adam-]

yes

 

[superchickenn]

they seem okay... i'll pull them back and have a good look over it later..

I just had to rush and collect my girl from school as the Mrs was stuck in work - anyways that's just me waffling on..

the trigger as well as the hunt idle seems to be..

1500 rpm when I give it 3/4 throttle the oil pressure is 25 PSI but sets off the ****beep***

im trying to find trends that allow me to pin point issues

 

[superchickenn]

Hi All,

Please can anyone tell me if they run an oil pump and if this happens to their car? if you drive at for example 1500rpm and lightly press the loud pedal and then lift off if their oil pressure changes and by how much,

the reason is im wondering

a, if this is normal,

b, if this is my issue and the big change in pressure causes the car to freak out

If I hold my foot still on the loud pedal the oil pressure stays put.. but when I lift off and leave it off for a good 5 seconds the pressure raises and stays for example 10-20 psi higher

sorry to keep on about the same subject guys but really trying to resolve this issue

 

[adam-]

There is no reason for this. The pump is mechanical. It is driven from the crank via. a chain. It's literally just 2 sprockets and a chain. It's rotation speed is linear to motor RPM.

When you lift, unless the motor RPM continues to rise, the pump will turn slower. Oil pressure CANNOT increase with a decrease in pump speed. It is just not possible.

Use a mechanical gauge to verify. Voltage dropping? Alternator slow? Gauge looks cheap.

 

[superchickenn]

That's what I don't understand Adam....

I was even thinking could it be the chain tensioner on the pump.. but when I changed the pump the tensioner seems nice and tight.... my thinking was if the tensioner was at fault then it could be causing slack.

The Gauge is borrowed off a buddy that runs a 550 bhp 205 so I know its good.. I have a mechanical gauge but its sooo short I cant check it as I drive as its in the engine bay..

I have a analogue gauge that arrived yesterday so I may run the 2 gauges and see if they match ?

also it dropped to 8PSI again last night on hot idle .. ggrrr

someone has also mentioned bottom main bearings.. I checked the connecting rod bearings but not the main end bearings

 

[superchickenn]

also I have a voltage gauge that shows that its a healthily 13.9-14.1 volts

 

[superchickenn]

if we establish the issue i'll buy some beers and send them over to you guys...

 

[adam-]

Tensioner just adjusts tension, it wouldn't let it slip.

Going by the lack of SAI pump and nuts on the rod caps, it's an AGU so no VVT.

Cam chain tensioner lifting? You can use the throttle cable in the bay to raise idle and then release. Video a mechanical gauge.

 

[superchickenn]

correct its the AGU .. i'll see if I can get a video of it later ... thanks again Adam

 

[adam-]

It does sound like it needs a refresh tbh. If you've replaced the pump and you've still got 8 psi hot, it's done.

Personally, jam some 10w60 in it, leave the AC on all the time to force the fans to bring coolant (and therefore oil temp) down slightly and send it.

If it bothers you, replace the mains and rod bearings. Drop one cap at a time, working from the center out. Push the thrusts out with a plastic something. Bolts are "single use", but are just 10.9 grade M8s. I'd replace for piece of mind. They're about a tenner from VW. Bearings aren't much more.

Could replace all the bearings/bolts for £80ish.

 

[superchickenn]

Can you do the mains with the engine in place? ive never tried.. I see how you can do the rod bearings but haven't really checked the mains...

my only worry with doing that is i'll do It and the head will be warn ... but then then again at least I got a good block..

I think that's the next plan.... i'll get in touch with VW and price some bits up now.... when I get it going i'll send you some beers

 

[superchickenn]

Also Adam do you know off hand what the torque spec is for the end caps ? and mains?

 

[adam-]

Crankshaft main bearing bolts - 65 Nm each + 90 degree each

Rod cap - 30 Nm (22 ft lb) + additional 1/4 turn (90)

I've never tried to do bearings in situe. Might have to remove all caps to swing the bearings out. Kind of awkward. Or just get another good block. They're cheap as.

I've got bare blocks you can literally have if you want.

 

[superchickenn]

cheers buddy... I couldn't be any further away from you if I tried..

I just called VW now and priced up the parts.. they could get them to me by 1pm tomorrow...

im just weighing up all my options.. this morning I was thinking fk it just ME7.5 it and get a AUQ lump like my other golf...

but I have 2 months until its road tripping so I need to consider that too

 

[superchickenn]

also would any 1.8t block fit or would it be a case of AGU only?

 

[adam-]

I'd AUQ it personally.

 

[adam-]

Seriously though, 10w60.

 

[TomasLT]

Pressure can't drop suddenly or rise. Your gauge sucks. Btw if your gauge is installed, where is the original sensor wire connected to?

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[superchickenn]

i ran it to the port on top of the oil cooler.. then I swapped it over and put it in its original hole for a few runs to ensure the readings were the same...

I will run mechanical pump before I start taking things apart... the gauge works fine on my buddy's car which is why this concerned me

@ adam i'll look at the other options whilst I find a donor car too.. Im only just finishing putting my AUQ back together so i'll finish that first