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coolant volume - how much?

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8.5K views 13 replies 4 participants last post by  theshabster  
#1 ·
Anyone have a haynes or knows how much coolant the mk4 petrol engine holds?

In more detail, its for the AZJ engine. I need to figure out what ratio of g12 fluid/water I need...but obiously need to know the volume of the coolant loop.

Imp
 
#2 ·
Okay, decided to to take a go at it.

You will need

G12+ coolant (This replaces G12)

1l of deionised water

screwdriver with star bit

oilpan / container to collect waste coolant.

1) Ensure your engine is cool, don?t do this whilst the engine is hot or tuned on. The coolant system is pressurised, which means the temps can rise to around 90 degrees without boiling. DO NOT REMOVE THE COOLANT IF IT?S HOT. Looking at the car from the front, my coolant drain tap was in the bottom right corner of the radiator located near the large coolant pipe.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:eek:ffice:eek:ffice" /><o:p></o:p>

2) I removed my plastic engine guard from the bottom by unscrewing four star screws; this enabled me to get to the drain tap without jacking the car up.<o:p></o:p>

3) The tap is a simple plastic turn type thing, no tools needed to unscrew. Just pull the tap towards the windscreen and turn to allow coolant to drain. Don?t forget a container, coolant will cause a similar (but not as difficult to remove) slick like oil. When the flow is low, the coolant will trickle down the subframe towards the n/s wheel and drip on the floor.<o:p></o:p>

4) Remove the coolant expansion tank cap (blue lid on my car) this will cause the flow to stream out from the loop via the tap.<o:p></o:p>

5) Collect ~2.4l of coolant from the system (if your expansion tank was full) It takes around 5-6Mins to drain the majority of coolant.<o:p></o:p>

6) Close the tap, It only needs a single turn to close tight.<o:p></o:p>

7) Pour the container of G12+ coolant into the expansion tank then 1/2 litre of deionised water into the tank. You don?t need to use deionised water but for the cost of it, it?s useful. The coolant fluid prevents Galvanic Corrosion and will prevent normal tap water from eating away at your engine block but by using deionised water you are making it easier for yourself in the future as you can use normal water safely to topup incase of emergency and the coolants anti corrosion properties wont be diluted due to the inital use of water. Eg If your on holiday and notice your coolant temp low, it will be safe to top up using that funky tap at petrol stations that you use to fill your windscreen bottle ;)<o:p></o:p>

6) Ensure there is visible amount of coolant in the expansion tank and there are no leaks from the bottom tap. With the tank lid off, start your car. Take a look at the coolant tank and keep an eye on it, use the remaining 1/2 litre of deionised water to top the tank up when needed. After around 2-3 mins take a look at the temperature gauge on the dash. Ensure that the engine is not over heating (tell tail sign is when radiator fans kick in) At this point you can refit the splash guard you removed.<o:p></o:p>

7) After another 2-3 mins, replace the cap on the coolant expansion tank. Sit in the car and turn the heating on full to ensure that warm air is being produced. Once warm air is being produced and you have at least added around 2 or more litres of coolant/water then take your car for a trip around the block. This should allow air bubbles to escape from the system where it is collected in the expansion tank. Keep a eye on the temperature gauge on the dash! Once your lap has finished, park up and take another look under the bonnet at the expansion tank to ensure the proper levels are present.<o:p></o:p>

<o:p></o:p>

The whole process takes around 40mins in total, it?s not difficult. VW only recommend G12 coolant for there cars, This coolant is only really available from the steelers at a cost of ?7 a bottle (1.5l) Deionised water can be obtained from garages/supermarkets etc at around ?1 per 2l. VW have replaced G12 coolant with G12+ which allows you to mix previous versions (g11/g12) which was used on pre 98 cars. I have used anti freeze on previous cars, but for the cost of the bottle from the steelers?may as well use that stuff, there?s not much diff in price.<o:p></o:p>

I have just driven 50miles after this and didn?t need to top the coolant up, I will check it again in a day or two though.<o:p></o:p>

<o:p></o:p>

Btw I love that little valve at the bottom of the radiator to drain the system, Its so simple to use.<o:p></o:p>

Job done... Next mission brake fluid change<o:p></o:p>

<o:p></o:p>

Imp<o:p></o:p>

<o:p> </o:p>
 
#4 ·
[quote user="Impossible"]

...

Once warm air is being produced and you have at least added around 2 or more litres of coolant/water then take your car for a trip around the block. This should allow air bubbles to escape from the system where it is collected in the expansion tank. [/quote]

Is there anything else that needs to be done to ensure there are no air locks/bubbles? Any other valves to open when draining?
 
#5 ·
[quote user="Impossible"]

...

Once warm air is being produced and you have at least added around 2 or more litres of coolant/water then take your car for a trip around the block. This should allow air bubbles to escape from the system where it is collected in the expansion tank. [/quote]

Is there anything else that needs to be done to ensure there are no air locks/bubbles? Any other valves to open when draining?
 
#6 ·
[quote user="Impossible"]

...

Once warm air is being produced and you have at least added around 2 or more litres of coolant/water then take your car for a trip around the block. This should allow air bubbles to escape from the system where it is collected in the expansion tank. [/quote]

Is there anything else that needs to be done to ensure there are no air locks/bubbles? Any other valves to open when draining?
 
#10 ·
Thanks.

I'm not quite sure you answered your own original question...

What is the ratio of G12:Water?

Also what was the total volume of liquid needed for the whole system?

Finally...I've got a bit of that sediment build up due to previously using radweld... is there any special method/product to completely flush the system or should I just run water through it a couple of times?
 
#11 ·
Thanks.

I'm not quite sure you answered your own original question...

What is the ratio of G12:Water?

Also what was the total volume of liquid needed for the whole system?

Finally...I've got a bit of that sediment build up due to previously using radweld... is there any special method/product to completely flush the system or should I just run water through it a couple of times?
 
#12 ·
Thanks.

I'm not quite sure you answered your own original question...

What is the ratio of G12:Water?

Also what was the total volume of liquid needed for the whole system?

Finally...I've got a bit of that sediment build up due to previously using radweld... is there any special method/product to completely flush the system or should I just run water through it a couple of times?