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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi, so my car has had a rough idle since I first got it, after trying other things I it must be my DMF, (It goes away when I press the clutch) so i'm looking into getting a replacement.

Also my clutch doesn't slip but when i'm in reverse it's very juddery, or when under heavy acceleration it's the same.

Anyway so it seems logical to have them both replaced at the same time.

I was having a look around eBay to see what sort of price i'd be looking at to replace them and i've seen some kits for about £150 for the clutch and single mass flywheel, are these any good or is it worth paying that bit extra for something better?

Just one quick question, I recently replaced my bulb on my right rear lights, I only just noticed when my mum was in the car but when the brake light is on, the indicator light also comes on with that 1 brake light?

Thanks,
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Cheers Jacob, I might have nocked something when I was changing the bulb, will have a check soon,

Anyone else on the matter of clutches? £150 for the clutch and SMF kit seems a very good price but has anyone actually used these low budget kits?
 

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im currently building a hybrid turbo'd tdi and did lots of homework on the whole smf/dmf arguement. i needed a clutch to cope with high torque so in a bid to blow the whole 'smf rattle' out the water iv gone for a helix clutch + pressure plate + bearing and a Valeo SMF conversion from euro car parts. still waiting for my helix bits to turn up but once its all back together im hoping il have a shit hot clutch/smf setup and no rattle. the standard DMF weighs 12.6kg..my smf weighs 9.7kg which should be enough not to rattle.

Theres the sachs option and standard dmf if youve got a grand spare and plan on a remap/ higher power, also on ebay if you look theres a sachs kit for 500 notes that will take 390 ft lb torque but if you just want a normal replacement clutch..id go for the valeo kit from euro car parts at 215 notes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks Wrighty, I don't understand about what flywheel though, im guessing by what your saying that a single mass flywheel is what causes the rough idle? Well a heavy SMF? So if it's to do with weight then I guess that will be my main concern when replacing it, because i'm quite sick of the roughness I have atm. Though when you do replace it make sure you post the results on the new flywheel. :)

On terms of price i'm really looking for the lowest budget bit of kit I can find because the car needs a lot of things. Apart from a full service, brakes etc, I think the timing belt is due soon so i'll probably get the cambelt done too which would also mean the water pump.

I think anyway, i'll need to check the history but I think the last time the timing belt was done was at about 60-70k miles and i'm on 115k just now, so maybe I could wait some time to save funds so I can actually modify it... :)

Another slight question, I might be looking into getting a remap at some point in the next year, so obviously it would be daft to have to replace the clutch again if I do, so could I put in the clutch/flywheel from a PD130 or 150? If so what would the price difference be like?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for the reply Madman, yea mine is the 6 speed, it would make more sense for me if I could put the PD130 clutch in if it was a straight swap, so when I eventually do get it mapped I wont be worrying about the clutch.

I fixed the daft brake light, the little console that the bulbs fit into had popped out the housing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for the link, to be honest my car sounds like that too, obviously my noise is the same when I press/depress the clutch.

The only reason i'm looking at changing it is because I have a few of what I think are clutch problems. 1. Is when going flat out in 1st it is isn't very smooth, this rough feeling gets worse when more people are in the car. Only in 1st gear and is worse in reverse. 2 I can't change into 2nd when doing so either, if I go over 3k in 1st I have to wait till the revs drop so I can get into 2nd.

When I say rough, I mean vibratey, but as I say it only happens in 1st.

My flywheel is noisey but in the same way as this youtube video and i've never had my clutch slip, though I doubt i'm even getting enough power to the wheels to cause that haha.

Thanks for all the replys gus, your help is invaluable.
 

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hey ray thought i put my thoughts into this as it seems like a bit of a mare, the problems with the gear change are in the box, only going into gear when the revs drop is normally worn syncros between the gears and as for the vibrations in first and reverse bearing on its way out definatly with more people in the car creating more load on the box's internals (bearings or teeth)

good luck with this one mate let us know what you find [Y]

EDIT very cheap genuine clutch and flywheel dont know what tdi but for the price is worth checking out

http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/2113113.htm
 

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I think anyway, i'll need to check the history but I think the last time the timing belt was done was at about 60-70k miles and i'm on 115k just now, so maybe I could wait some time to save funds so I can actually modify it... :)
also IIRC first timing belt should of been done at 60K and again at 100K i would really have these things checked by a pro if you're not confident in doing so
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
This makes sense Jay, maybe the previous owners thought the same 'ignorant' thoughts as I have and thought it was the clutch and the flywheel.

I really like this forum because i'm constantly learning and passing on info (if ever I get it) like you guys, thanks for taking the time in doing so.

Anyway, exuse my ignorance on the subject but when you say bearings, do you mean bearings inside the gearbox or the only other bearings I knowwhich is wheel bearings?

Ok so synchros, I reckon that maybe sounds a little bit morer logical to be the problem because the clutch doesn't slip, could I get these fixed or would I be cheaper looking into getting another gearbox?

Again thanks for the replys.
 

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it sounds like your DMF is on its way mate my dad had a t5 van when the DMf was on its way it rattled a lot and some times would not go in to 1st and reverses gear and was very juddery on acceleration but the clutch would never slip van went to vw they channged the flywhheel and clutch the the flywheel whats the millege on your car
 

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I think anyway, i'll need to check the history but I think the last time the timing belt was done was at about 60-70k miles and i'm on 115k just now, so maybe I could wait some time to save funds so I can actually modify it... :)
also IIRC first timing belt should of been done at 60K and again at 100K i would really have these things checked by a pro if you're not confident in doing so
cambelt is every 60k

something up with your maths mate 60 x 2 = 120 or it did when I was at school, mind it was a while back. Have they changed the way?[:S][whistle]
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Anil, sorry my description must have been off, I never have problems s electing any gears unless i have my foot down in 1st and try to change into 2nd above 3.5krpm.

I was thinking though, I borrowed a car before which had a dodgy synchro and when trying to go down from 3rd to 2nd it wouldn't go into gear, but it would go down to where the gear should be and feel like there was nothing there. However in my car it's like i'm trying to change gear without the clutch engadged, though it doesn't crunch, it just won't go in.

Other than that the gears are perfect, very good, no play in the stick and the feel in changing gear is very precise.

Blah! I might just leave it, to be honest it sounds like it probably has a SMF in it. Though if anything changes (Which I doubt since it's been like this for 3k miles and never got any louder or more vibratey) il be sure to post here.

Thanks very much for the replies guys.
 
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