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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi i have just baught a golf GT TDI its X reg and 2000 yr model if that
helps in anyway, Just wondering what sort of mods can I do to my car??
Also what Air filter is the best for a tad noise and performance??

Thanks in Advance Sonny
 

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Congrats Sonny - Welcome to the club!

Id say that BP Ultimate and the Green Cotton Air Filter have definately
made the car perform on a more consistant basis, also, I've found that
when it runs rough it rund really rough, so basic maintenance is
essential.
 

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I've used it for about 4 months, but had to use Shell 84.9p/litre stuff
a few weeks back - OMFG! I might as well have used Tippex - It's
running real bad at the mo!

Tell me more about the CAI ...
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Heres a few pics of a Carbonio CAI..

Posted Image


Posted Image


Because it's made out of Carbon Fibre its keeps the intake pipe cool
unlike the other CAI which use metal pipes which end up getting hot and
take in warm air instead of cold air like it should.

Thats AFAIK.

Sonny
 

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Hi

You could also look at the remap on that car.

The 115bhp TDi is good for 150bhp with just the remap.

The torque goes to 250lb/ft.

Goes really well.

We also have an offer on at the moment too for the Custom-Code.

Check out the JBS Auto Designs headding on this forum.

Sarah
 

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Change the N75 for one from a 130PD - it doesn't give masses of grunt but it does make it smoother.

My 115 RR'd at 140bhp with one.... (I don't claim the same will happen for you but for ?30 it's not bad!) and went to 155bhp with a tuning box as well.

It's also a good base tostart from if you're getting it mapped as mapping will take advantage of the different boost characteristics the sensor will allow.

Have a read here and make your own mind up. http://www.uk-mkivs.net/forums/245016/ShowPost.aspx
 

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The intake will net you very few gains, if any at all since the stock airbox design is quite effective as it is. On the other hand a full Miltek exhaust system for instance will be a better option.

But bang for the buck a tb or a remap is deffo the way to go.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Change the N75 for one from a 130PD - it doesn't give masses of grunt but it does make it smoother.

My 115 RR'd at 140bhp with one.... (I don't claim the same will
happen for you but for ?30 it's not bad!) and went to 155bhp with a
tuning box as well.

It's also a good base tostart from if you're getting it mapped as
mapping will take advantage of the different boost characteristics the
sensor will allow.

Have a read here and make your own mind up. http://www.uk-mkivs.net/forums/245016/ShowPost.aspx
So it went up 25bhp with just the 130bhp MAF and the N75 130bhp one
aswell, how easy are these parts to fit?? Also how much do they cost??

Thanks Sonny
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Hi

You could also look at the remap on that car.

The 115bhp TDi is good for 150bhp with just the remap.

The torque goes to 250lb/ft.

Goes really well.

We also have an offer on at the moment too for the Custom-Code.

Check out the JBS Auto Designs headding on this forum.

Sarah
I'll be remapping once all my bits have been put on to the car i.e.
CAI, Exhaust, FMIC if i can get one that is. Thanks BTW Sonny
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The intake will net you very few gains, if any at
all since the stock airbox design is quite effective as it is. On the
other hand a full Miltek exhaust system for instance will be a better
option.

But bang for the buck a tb or a remap is deffo the way to go.
Im planning to all the suttle mods first like, exhaust, air filter,
FMIC if theres one available for it then I'll get it remapped for best
gains.

Sonny
 

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I only changed the MAF 'cos it was stuffed - it's the boost valve that makes the difference and that's about ?30 from your local stealer. Please don't think you'll get another 25bhp too, some who've tried it don't think they got anything like as much. I like it, it's smoother and less frantic.

Having owned and modded a 115 over the past 18 months and 30k miles I would suggest mods in the following order:

Shocks - a must have!
Springs - if you want decent handling a good set from Eibach or H&R
Brakes - the FS-III 280mm can't take much more than std power so if nothing else at least put some decent (Mintex/Ferodo/Pagid) pads in
TB/re-map - dependant on preference

Cosmetics - well you choose!

I know it's tempting to go for more power first but if you do you'll have a wallowing nightmare that doesn't stop - a recipe for disaster - better handling means you can drive rings round others.

BTW - looks good![;)]
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I only changed the MAF 'cos it was stuffed -
it's the boost valve that makes the difference and that's about ?30
from your local stealer. Please don't think you'll get another 25bhp
too, some who've tried it don't think they got anything like as much. I
like it, it's smoother and less frantic.

Having owned and modded a 115 over the past 18 months and 30k miles I would suggest mods in the following order:

Shocks - a must have!
Springs - if you want decent handling a good set from Eibach or H&R
Brakes
- the FS-III 280mm can't take much more than std power so if nothing
else at least put some decent (Mintex/Ferodo/Pagid) pads in
TB/re-map - dependant on preference

Cosmetics - well you choose!

I know it's tempting to go for more power first but if you do you'll
have a wallowing nightmare that doesn't stop - a recipe for disaster -
better handling means you can drive rings round others.

BTW - looks good![;)]
Oh yeah I know that, I was planning on doing the brakes and suspension
before I do anything engine wise. I'm looking at coilovers for it but
don't want to slam the car, but want to have the option if I ever
choose to buy new alloys.

Quick question also, what brake upgrades can I do which will still fit
inside of the 16 inch BBS alloy, and give better and sharper braking.I
don't want to be changing the alloys just because the brakes over sized
also.

Sonny
 

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Brakes - the FS-III 280mm can't take much more than std power so if nothing else at least put some decent (Mintex/Ferodo/Pagid) pads in

Quick question also, what brake upgrades can I do which will still fit inside of the 16 inch BBS alloy, and give better and sharper braking.I don't want to be changing the alloys just because the brakes over sized also.

Sonny
Sonny, the hub / caliper arrangement on the FS-III can't be upgraded as later units can, e.g by fitting the TT caliper carriers and 312mm discs. To do that you need to swap the hub for the later version. If you're sticking with the existing hub then as Richard says, you're limited to 280mm discs and decent pads.

HTH

Allan
 

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Quick question also, what brake upgrades can I do which will still fit inside of the 16 inch BBS alloy, and give better and sharper braking.I don't want to be changing the alloys just because the brakes over sized also.
Those are defo nice alloys you got there mate, though you can always get slightly bigger/wider BBS wheels and simply put on a VW centre cap from the old wheels, looks very OEM. Still in two minds whether to change my BBS centre caps for VW. I like them both equally.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Quick question also,
what brake upgrades can I do which will still fit inside of the 16 inch
BBS alloy, and give better and sharper braking.I don't want to be
changing the alloys just because the brakes over sized also.
Those are defo nice alloys you got there mate, though you
can always get slightly bigger/wider BBS wheels and simply
put on a VW centre cap from the old wheels, looks very OEM. Still
in two minds whether to change my BBS centre caps for VW. I like them
both equally.
If i buy new rims I'll end up spending shed loads on the exterior rather than tuning it, which i want to do this time round.

Sonny
 

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Brakes as has been mentioned can be changed for the bigger 288mm ones. You'll need to change the whole hub to be able to do that as the FS-III calipers are integral with the hub.

It's an easy swap and the 288s can then be changed for the 312s just by changing the carriers and all will fit under a 16" rim.

In the meantime simply swapping the pads on the std discs will improve things more than you'd think.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
What are the standard brake size on the GT TDI 115bhp version?? Also
what pads can I get for the brakes, I've heard green stuff are pretty
good.

Sonny
 

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If i buy new rims I'll end up spending shed loads on the exterior rather than tuning it
Not necessarily - new wheels can be part of tuning, if you choose them for their technical specs like low mass, specific offset (to give you a slightly wider track which, combined with coilovers, will enable you to improve the handling). What width are the RX-IIs on yours, are they 7"? They look nice whatever they are. However, I'd agree your money is probably better spent elsewhere like suspension bits.
 

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Sonny, the hub / caliper arrangement on the FS-III can't be upgraded as later units can, e.g by fitting the TT caliper carriers and 312mm discs. To do that you need to swap the hub for the later version. If you're sticking with the existing hub then as Richard says, you're limited to 280mm discs and decent pads.

HTH

Allan
Std 115 brakes are 280mm - 1.8T are 288mm - Anni/TT/S3 etc - 312mm - R32 334mm

Pads - Pagid/Ferodo/Mintex/EBC there's differeing opinions as to which are best.....
 
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