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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,

This week my car has been like a train - sounding like pulling on the emergency brakes!! i knew it was the rear pad which i ordered some right away...

So went to change my rear brake pads yesterday ( first ever DIY atteampt ) Anyway i jacked car up etc,

and saw something looked odd so i wiggled the dust guard and the inner pad just fell out! bare metal!

old inner pad

Obviously i want to get the caliper off - which i broke two 13mm sockets trying to loose the top bolt ( yes i should have used a spanner) though didn't have a 13mm at the time, i did manage to get the bottom bolt out.

Oh and the piston looks like its pushed right out so that is more than likely f00ked.

So at the moment i'm stuck as i've gone and nearly rounded the bolt head,[:-*] so is there any other was i can get at it or is it going to be a drill the bolt out job. going to get a new bolt tomorrow morning.

Cheers
 

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try and hammer a 12mm socket on there..... And the rear pistons are probably the "twist in" type, rather than push in ones.

good luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
try and hammer a 12mm socket on there..... And the rear pistons are probably the "twist in" type, rather than push in ones.

good luck
Thanks...

oh damn it, there is me thinking i would get away with using a G clamp to push the piston back.
 

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Hi,i used a g clamp on mine,Load the piston up with the clamp [not too much] and use some water pump pliers to twist piston clockwise an d it should wind in.Dont muller your dust seal though.I found a half inch imperial spanner fitted better than a 13mm metric.If you cant get bolt out you could undo the carrier bolts but you may have to take brake hose off.Hope you sort it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hi,i used a g clamp on mine,Load the piston up with the clamp [not too much] and use some water pump pliers to twist piston clockwise an d it should wind in.Dont muller your dust seal though.I found a half inch imperial spanner fitted better than a 13mm metric.If you cant get bolt out you could undo the carrier bolts but you may have to take brake hose off.Hope you sort it.
thanks for the tip mate... I was looking at those water pump pliers and they seem a bit expensive for what they are, do come in handy though so should invest. Might give it a go with mole grips
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Rusty i bet it does..

Now i can't get this sh1t of a bolt out.

Considering buying a blow torch, would this be ok to use on the caliper - where the bolt it housed - protecting the brake line of course.
 

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noo buy the correct tool your already saveing ££££ by diy!! if your gona use mole grips or water pump pliers you risk scoreing the absolute crap out the pistons where it actualy seals,{ on the sides}and could cause a leak.When i did mine i used a pin tool and was fairly stiff to move,the front caliper pistons can be pushed back in with a G clamp {no need to twist}, also check your brake fluid level as when your pistons get pushed back the fluid will also get pushed back into the lines. so if its been topped up before due to pad wear this fluid will probably have to be removed.as for the knackerd bolt, i wouldnt put a blow torch anyway near it, if the heads fxxxd? a blow torch aint gona help. is there room to get a mini pair of stillsons on the head?
 

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I'd use a hammer and a sharp cold chisel on the edge of the fecked bolthead. and start it turning like that.
 

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oh dear,scarily we are messing with brakes and not really sure what we are doing!,not being harsh fella but it could so easily go wrong for you. looking at that inner pad i recon you will need new discs too, go buy the right tool, caliper wind back tool,about ?12.. dont hammer a 12mm spanner on the bolt head unlikely to work and or damage the spanner. hit the bolt head with a hammer,carefull not to batter it but a smart tap,dont use a toffee hammer ,nor a sledg hammer,but give it a smart hit.this will "crack " off the rust and debris siezing the bolt. then use a 6point socket, (donated by 6 flats not 12 points),hold the pressure on as you undo it. little tip, undo the resevoir cap as you wind the pistons back in but dont forget to replace it.hope this helps
 

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Had the same problem the calliper was fooked and I ended up needing a new brake line too because it split in my efforts to wind it back in!

Posted Image
lol
 

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The tool only cost me 26 quid locally but you can get them for 33 from halfrauds. Worth the money. If you do it a lot and friends and family get a whiff watch the beers roll in.

Bit of a pain when I dont drink lol!

As for the bolt I'd agree with the Smart Tap!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Hi,i used a g clamp on mine,Load the piston up with the clamp [not too much] and use some water pump pliers to twist piston clockwise an d it should wind in.Dont muller your dust seal though.I found a half inch imperial spanner fitted better than a 13mm metric.If you cant get bolt out you could undo the carrier bolts but you may have to take brake hose off.Hope you sort it.
This worked a treat, well at first my clamp was too small so had to buy a bigger one ( one thing i found - as others have mentioned about scoring the piston is that you don't even need to touch the piston with grips, but use grips on the g clamp head.

I touch the hell out of that bolt and still wouldn't budge, i think the last person who did it, didn't clean up the bolt.

I ended up spinning the pivot nut back then wiggling the caliper off the carrier. It took about 20 minutes for the other side as appose to 2 days ( seized bolt)

Well it is all done now except that the handbrake seems lighter and not holding the car well, so is there any adjustment to be done there? and where.

Many thanks all

Daz
 

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good idea with useing the grips on the G clamp, might wanna check the hand brake cable where it attachs to the calipers 1st before trying to adjust it.
 

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For the life of me I can't understand why anyone would buy the wrong tool to do a job, and make do. If your G clamp isn't big enough to do a bodge job on the piston, why not buy the correct tool instead of a bigger wrong tool? [facepalm]
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
For the life of me I can't understand why anyone would buy the wrong tool to do a job, and make do. If your G clamp isn't big enough to do a bodge job on the piston, why not buy the correct tool instead of a bigger wrong tool?
Yes I should invest in the proper tool. The clamp was a cheaper alternative, plus it will also come in handy for other jobs.
 
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