Not had any hands on experience with these problems, but as I work as a clutch designer I thought it might help if I clear up a few issues...
The cerametallic paddle type clutch disc (driven plate) will be the cheapest option as you can keep your current flywheel and cover plate (assuming it fits between these parts). The cerametallic paddles have a higher friction coefficient, so with the force of your current cover plate the clutch will transmit more torque. As a rough guide, it should transmit about 1.4 times more torque for the same clamp force. For example, in a PD150, the standard torque is around 236ftlbs. With 300ftlbs you've got about 1.3 times more torque, so with a clutch with cerametallic paddles that can now transmit 1.4 times more torque, you should be ok. The bite will definitely be more sudden, but you should be able to adapt your driving style to not give yourself whiplash on the way to work every morning. A word of warning however, because the bite is more sudden, you send the torque much more suddenly through the drivetrain, and these shock loadings can cause accelerated wear / failure of the gearbox components and other parts such as cv joints and the dual mass flywheel. Be aware of something else - for those of you with PD130/150 TDIs VW call your gearbox the MQ350. The 350 stands for the torque limit in Nm that the gearbox has been designed to transmit safely for the vehicle lifetime. 350Nm is about 259ftlbs, so if you're getting 300ftlbs you're increasing the wear rate on the gearbox. It would be advisable to make sure you use a decent oil in your gearbox, change the oil more frequently and maybe treat it with an additive that coats the moving parts with a low friction substance.
The longer you let your clutch slip, the quicker you heat up the spring in the cover plate that gives you the clamp force. Heating this spring will cause the force it can give to drop off fairly quickly, so you might find that the problem gets progressively worse.
Having had a bit of slip, the organic facings of the standard clutch will become glazed, and the friction coefficient of the glazed surface is lower than the unglazed surface. Once again, you're in a vicious cirlce - the slip problem gets worse, the temperature goes up, the clutch spring gets weaker. The "clutch burn" reccommended by other people seems to fix this, but don't overdo it.
Hope this helps you make a more informed choice.