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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
[:(]hi guys im looking to change the front speakers what can anybody recommend as direct replacements witch will sound great as im not sure what to go for and i dont know the best way to get cable to them and also if i wanted to fit them to an amp how to get the cableing to the boot or if anybody has any system ideas for me i would be very greatfull thanks chris
 

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Anything from 6 1/2in up to 8in can fit in the front doors of a Mk.4 Golf,I reckon you need to spend upwards of about ?150 for the set to get anything worth having,that'll sound good if driven from a decent high powered head unit,or even better when amped up.

Anything from the likes of Kicker,Audiobahn,and DLS are all good,the DLS will be the most "accurate",if that is the kind of sound you are looking for.

This link tells you all about how to get the power wire through into the car,don't forget to run the RCAs to the amp down the other side to the power cable,and you couln't have picked an easier car to run cables through and the doors are a piece of wassisname to work with.

http://www.uk-mkivs.net/forums/262068/ShowPost.aspx

Another Chris.

(Photos to follow of my install when I actually find my dream Golf).
 

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Hi

I have just upgraded the complete system, but I changed the front speakers for Orion 6.5 components first with a 2 channel amp, sounded fantastic, but I found the rear sounded emtpy, so I had the rear changed to the Orion 6.5 coaxial with another 2 channel amp as well as a new head unit - Alpine CDA 9851R. Also the ipod will be connected on friday.

Doors and rear panels dynmated, all looks factory except the head unit.

Looks great, sounds awesome, recommeded.

RG
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
hi does dynamat make a big difference and how much is it also whats the price and where can i get the orions from and how did you wire the speakers up from the rear pannels to the amps is it easy to do as im looking to do an ice install like yours with an alpine head iwant to put my ipod on too im worried abput taking the pannels off brought a manual today are the orions components also did you need a seperate feed to your alpine as iv been told the standard sterio converter is not good enough thanks chris  
 

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Hi Chris

Had the work done at the local shop, they have dynamated the both door and rear panels ( 3 door ) compaired to the other cars that a have had, the Dynamat stops all the rattles, making the music clearer. As far as I am aware the VW H/U uses a iso connector which connects straight to the Alpine, phonos from the H/U to the amps, which are in the rear panels. Any more info needed, let me know before fri, as I will be back in the shop. The Orions were one of the makes in the shop, which I have heard of and listerned to before.

In the front they are components P6.2 - ?230



In the rear they are coaxials C63 - About ?80

 

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You can't just plug Veedub style ISOs into a head unit with chassis mount ISOs,if you don't want to cut your cars loom,you'll have to use the Autoleads adaptor,(other makes of adaptor are available!!!).Or if your new head unit has a flying lead type of loom,you can swap the wires over in that,but you'll also need the amplified aerial adaptor if you want to listen to the radio.

The second permanent live,which is pin no.5 in the diagram below,is normally used by the remote switching output from the head unit,so that would need to be cut and insulated,and the red and yellow switched and permanent lives need to be swapped over,so red goes to yellow,and yellow goes to red.
 

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also did you need a seperate feed to your alpine as iv been told the standard sterio converter is not good enough thanks chris
Do you mean the thick yellow wire that they say has to be wired direct to the battery on the highest power Alpines?I've never done this with any Alpine like this I've fitted,and it's always worked just fine.You can use both of the red/white permanent lives to power it,they can supply more current than any head unit can ever draw.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
yeah i was told the yellow wire was not big enough to take the 60w alpines as i want to fit a new alpine which is comming out this month with the new high speed ipod interface but iv been told it needs a dedicated feed from the battery to make full use of the power
 

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On some dodgy old Mk.1 Fiesta I'd say go direct to the battery,but Alpines claims about 4 x 60 watts coming out of their head units is totally absurd.You cannot get a genuine 60 watts from a 12 volt supply,or actually in this case a total of 240 watts,it would need to take way more current than even their extra heavy duty permanent live can possibly carry.The actual genuine UNDISTORTED power they can supply is probably in the order of 25-30 watts per channel.Although these do sound very nice,they're still no substitute for even a modest external amp driving them ( a proper 50 watts RMS would do just nicely),but buy it on the strength of the high speed i-Pod interface alone.

But trust me on modern Veedubs,those two red/white permanent lives will supply ALL the current one head unit could ever draw.There are a lot of brand new cars that have stupidly thin perm. live wires,but luckily not Mk.4 Golfs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
thanks so when i buy the head unit all i need is a converter from veedub to alpine conector to connect it up and are the red and white cables part of the vw stereo wiring or are they on a connecter also would i get one from halfords as all i have at the mo is the standard vw gamma head unit and is it easy to take out and will the alpine fit strait in or do i need a dashboard adapter or something like that. iv just been looking at dynamat for the doors and boot but it looks like a lot of hasstle to take the door skins off have you done that to yours thanks again chris
 

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Autoleads do the ISO loom adaptor with the part number PC2-69-4 (not 100% certain on that,but I think the number's right),and yes the red/whites are part of the Veedub loom,in the photo below,the yellow wire goes to one of them,but the vacant hole to its right goes to the other one.On the Alpine head units with this requirement,the yellow isn't terminated in the ISO block as on all others,it is on a nice long flying lead,so if you don't mind cutting your cars loom,the easiest way would be to cut the red/whites an inch or so back from the ISO block,and terminate them with female bullet connectors,and then piggy back another wire from the yellow with them both treminated in male bullets.This way,there's still enough wire to rejoin to at the back of the ISO block if you need to.

The dashboard opening is a standard DIN size (single or double),so any aftermarket head unit will go straight in without the need for any kind of fitting kit.It is a good idea to Dynamat the inside of the doors,unless you are very adventurous,you will only need to strip the door card off.This list of how to guides below has the instructions on how to DIY anything you are likely to do yourself.

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=764935
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
excellent just had a look at that thread much better than the manual i brought looked at some components too in halfords (infinity) im going to invest in some dynomat though il try ebay. Is it worth changing the rears or just leave them and put a nice sub in the boot or would i be better with 6x9s on the parcell shelf i want a nice sounding system but not a boom box something crisp and clear really. Thanks chris
 

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In my humble opinion the Infinitys are aweful if they're the cheapey ones for about ?100 or so you've been looking at.They work,but I don 't think they're a worthwhile improvement on the stock speakers.

I personally never have rear speakers,just the best ones my budget allows in the front,and a sub.You could even have some freeair subs (they don't need a box) in a decent stealth shelf,then almost no boot space gets lost,with one decent four channel amp driving everything.

Freeair bass sounds a lot more natural than boxed sub bass,but you need to hear it appreciate the different types of bass available.
 

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Not so long ago i upgraded my front speakers, Rainbow compononents and i must say these are absolutely amazing... Ive had alpine, rockford and infinity before this. Nothing compares at all. They are seriously awsome, no distortion what so ever and cystal clear sound. If youve never heard of the make Rainbow, just let me tell you some of there front speaker componnent sets range up to the region of ?5500 (no i havent mistakenly added a zero). They are the proper pro kits and even though my compents were ?190 they still are awsome, the quality and manufacturing of these are just what ur lookking for and sound awsome in my mk4.

You'd have to hear them to appreciate there sound, if you type 'rainbow component reviews' or something similar in google you'll get loads of people telling you how much they love these.

as for where i got the SLC265-Kick

theres a difference between the SLC265 and the SLC265-Kick... basically the kick run only at high pass 80mhz... which is normally what people run them at if they have a sub...

i got them from ray smith mobile toys, really good service from them http://www.raysmith.co.uk/index.php?cPath=3_6_13&page=1&sort=4a

Take a good look into these mate, for the price (theyve gone down since i brought them) they are really good...

Think ive praised them alot as this message is long, but thre well worth it [:D]
 
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