Volkswagen Mark IV Forum banner
1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Morning all.
I'm a bit useless on the forum, but have looked and I can't see anything recent in the subject, so here goes.

Ive got a couple of broken springs on the wife's 2002 V6 4 motion, one front and one rear.
I'm looking to replace all 4, but thought I might refresh the rest of the suspension and links etc. The cars done 80k and hasn't really missed a beat.
What's the best way, buying a load of new bits or taking the front and rear running gear off and having it blasted and coated and new bushes fitted?
The car is totally standard, apart from a Bluetooth kit and tracker.
It runs on a couple of sets of the original wheels 16inch all round with summer and winter tyres.

We've other cars so it doesn't matter how long it takes.

Thanks in anticipation. Simon
 

·
VR6 GT35 4mo
Joined
·
11,406 Posts
What's the best way, buying a load of new bits or taking the front and rear running gear off and having it blasted and coated and new bushes fitted?
Just doing struts and then going the whole hog and powdercoating the subframe are very different with wildy different costs.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,826 Posts
exactly, if it's just a run around just replace the springs... If you want to keep it for a long time... than your last idea is the better one... but it costs considerably more and only an option to look at if you decided the car will stay until the end of days, so it is best to restore it to better than showroom condition.
 

·
Registered
V6 4Motion
Joined
·
935 Posts
For me, polybush front strut top mounts were a big improvement, as were the Audi S3/TTMk1 front compliance bushes. Most of the other bushes don't take much load so you're in diminishing returns territory. If I were doing a full refresh I think I'd be inclined to just buy new rather than refurb existing just because you're factoring in pressing ball joints and replacing rubbers that you'd need to remove for the blasting and powder coating.

I'm sure there was a "which colour dot are the best springs?" thread somewhere too but I'll be blowed if I can find it, although I went for identical colour codes direct from VW

Replacement ARBs and/or replacing their mounting bushes would also be something I'd look at.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yes, we've had it from new and no reason to sell. It's just a nice thing and is good as a spare. We've another 6 cars in the family of 4. It's particularly good in the winter, especially fitted with winter tyres.
So, think I'd rather get all under knowside done, my guess was about £1500, buy not sure where to get the bits. Ok don't particularly like VW direct as they've left a sour taste in the mouth with my Phaeton.
Back in the day when I was 18 or 19 I'd be looking at billstien, Koni or Sachs, but I'm a long was past 18 now.

Would it be best to replace wishbones, steering bits , not rack, anti roll bars etc or powder coat.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I'll have to see if there are any colour codes left visible on the springs, I'm not sure if I remember them being yellow or purple marks, but didn't realise that was how they categorised rates.
From an ecological viewpoint, and keeping money in the locality I'd prefer to refurbish, if possible, my existing bits, but I'm sure it will probably be cheaper and easier to replace with new.
I'll see what bits I need, think I've something on the pc with parts lists etc for VW's unless the vagcom software has same info.

Thanks Simon
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,826 Posts
if you are going to refresh the lot than do the lot... nothing is more of a headache than having new arms, knuckles, bushes etc to see that crusty track rod, track rod end or droplink ruin the looks, i recently replaced the lot on my daily (not a VW) the thing you need to remember is that the back on the 4 motion also has quite the amount of bushes, arms etc as it's an individual setup like on the r32 (one of the reasons they handle way better) so that'll add to the costs...

So i'd say whatever you can replace with new because it works out cheaper do that.... and if you decide to powdercoat existing parts... just take the lot off in one go and drop it all off to support your local business... they might do you a deal because of the shear amount of stuff you want done.

it just means you'll need axle stands, or blocks to rest the car on, and take your time removing the stuff, you won't be the first to realise new bolts are needed as they snap on removal.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for that, I was thinking of dropping the front and back subframes as a whole, I've got a little hydrolic lift in the garage and it can sit on that until it's done. When I say I, I actually mean someone else with a little help from me.
I can see lots of bits online, but there are loads of different brands - most of which I don't recognize.
Is there a supplier to use or can anyone recommend brands to use?
I agree with the bolts, the existing have been in 20 years, if the next lot last as long they'll see me out.
Can you get these from anywhere other than the dealers?
Thanks for the useful feedback, I appreciate it. S
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,225 Posts
VAG bolts on eBay sells genuine bolts, usually cheaper than the dealer, and with no need to make multiple trips to the dealer for ordering and collecting.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
182 Posts
I think the problem is it could cost a lot of money for some thing that may not need doing. I mean top mounts at the front you should do, as they seem to sag just with age rather than use it seems, plus if you are replacing springs you'll need to get them out anyway. Chances are at that stage it will end up throwing the tracking out, so trackrods are cheap, I used AutoDoc and it was like £50 for both track rods complete with boots.

I found one of the biggest issues with 20 year old cars is all the rubber boots start to degrade, so if I was going to redo stuff, I'd probably just look to redo the stuff with rubber boots.If you havent already done it something else maybe worth looking in to is the flexible brake lines, its another rubber part that starts degrading after 20 years.

The haldex subframe at the back always seems to be super rusty and so are the trailing arms, fronts never seem that bad, its quite a lot of work to take the whole lot out mind, as you'll end up stripping everything out of the back of the car. Could you not spend some time just cleaning it off with a wire brush and paint it with something like hammerite to protect it?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
thanks for the reply's, my thinking was the bushes would be meh, I can have a good look and see if anything could be done to tidy it up while in situ. ta.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks for the replies guys - its crunch time, I'm either selling or getting the work done.


2002 VW Golf V6 4motion 204bhp 5dr in Reflex Silver £2600


Is there an enthusiast who'd like to take it on?

All the best Simon.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,826 Posts
that is a i don't want to see it go price so you'll be hard pushed to find a buyer... the last time i saw one in a good state for sale it was 1100 asking price with a full years MOT no accidents ever recorded and with a full leather heated interior... I almost went for it... but i don't ever want a mk4 golf again (yeah it'll be a money pit in my hands)
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top