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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I thought this topic had been done to death, but I'm actually struggling to find answers. Perhaps some more informed people can summarise for me.

My steering rack has blown on my mk4, and I figure now is the time to upgrade, if ever.

First question, which racks are actually quicker? I've seen mixed information about which racks from TTs are quicker, same for S3s. The R32 rack seems like a safe bet, but they are considerably more expensive.

Secondly, are there any supporting changes that need to be made. In some places I see that I can just swap over my tie rods to the new rack, others mention needing other hubs or even sway bars. Does anyone know for sure?

Cheers.
 

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I had a 4motion before my R32 and the R32 rack is way quicker. I think it's like 2.5 turns from centre to lock each way on the 4mo and 1.5 ish on the R. I thought about fitting a 'quick rack' to the 4mo when I had it but apparently the angle sensor is a headache so never did. Hope that help at all?

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I did however fit R32 front hubs, track rod ends and lower arms to the 4mo which made a massive difference

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
So I'm lucky in that I have an AGU, so no TCS or any fancy stuff like that to worry about. I wonder if it's worth just biting the bullet and getting the R32 rack. But still want to make sure there's no other supporting bits needed for the rack before I pull the trigger and buy one.
 

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Ive got 2 quick racks that i took off some TT's i broke..

both quick racks,

one is going on my MK1 Leon (its an early 225 TT) so the hubs have the correct drive shafts etc so ill be swapping hubs lower arms and rack etc.

The other is going on the MK4 i picked up the other week. as that rack is off a later TT the drive shafts use the big allen key rather than the 30mm socket so i wont be using them, will only be using the rack.

The advantage of swapping the sway bar is because they run under the drive shafts.. but you need the mount on the strut to be able to accept this. My MK1 Leon has coilovers with this bracket already there
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Forgive me for sounding dense, but why does swapping the steering rack result in a need for different shafts/hubs/lower arms? Or is this because you're taking the subframe and other associated components across as well?
 

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Forgive me for sounding dense, but why does swapping the steering rack result in a need for different shafts/hubs/lower arms? Or is this because you're taking the subframe and other associated components across as well?
swapping the rack doesn't require you to change the hubs over or anything like that it's just the 'usual route' people go as the R32 geometry is tons better. You can just fit a quick rack and nothing else as far as I'm aware

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Forgive me for sounding dense, but why does swapping the steering rack result in a need for different shafts/hubs/lower arms? Or is this because you're taking the subframe and other associated components across as well?
the hubs in the hub carriers need to be changed because the driveshaft fitment is different between the two variants

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Makes sense, so I could just do the rack for now if I wanted. R32 racks are twice the price for a refurb one though... decisions.
 

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Also depends what year TT for example you get the hubs from,

ive got one from a 2001 TT that doesnt require the different drive shafts so fits my Mk1 leon no problem.

However the hubs from my 2003 TT require the different drive shafts. They use the big allen key rather than the 30mm socket the older TT use (same as mk4)

As the guys above said the racks are the same its just the hubs that differ.
 

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Hi, I've recently fitted a rack from a Mk1 TT to my Mk4 Golf. The original rack was approx 3 turns lock-to-lock and the TT rack is approx 2.5 turns so it's not a massive difference but it is better. Combined with a slightly smaller steering wheel it would be just right I reckon.

I have also heard that the R32 rack is quicker but these are expensive and rare as you say.

If you aren't doing the other upgrades mentioned (hub carriers, wishbones etc.) then you may need to swap the track rod ends as the TT rod ends are slightly different (aside from being upside-down). You could alternatively swap the track rods complete with the rod end ball joints from your old rack to your new one.

If the vehicle has ESP (I think you said it doesn't), you will need to get someone with full VCDS to alter the coding for the different steering ratio or the ESP will cut in unexpectedly during cornering.

Replace all the bolts. They are cheap enough from Vagbolts or through TPS if you have an account or know someone who does. Probably goes without saying but you'll need a laser alignment afterwards.

Hope this is helpful
Rich

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