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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
A few days ago my engine began playing up making a misfiring sound whilst driving. The next time I started it up it smoked quite a bit until I had driven it for a few minutes, so I called out a very helpful VW Assistance technician who took the top cover of the head off with me and pin-pointed the clattering sounds to be coming from cylinder four nearest the gearbox. After a few phonecalls we were informed that this was not uncommon on that engine when approaching the 130k miles mark, which mine is.

The final diagnosis is that the piston nearest to the gearbox has failed due to over-heating which has led to it deforming a little and thus the compression was not reaching enough to let it combust the fuel going in. It's time for a new engine, a mere 6000 miles after getting the timing belt done but it's going to be very hard to find a low mileage PD115 engine (code: AJM) because almost all diesels are purchased to be driven.

I am proposing to fit a PD130 or 150 engine but need to know if this will even be possible and what is required to do this. I appreciate a remap may be quite essential due to the mix and match of parts but does anyone know if all the loom will fit and if the current ECU will even know what's happening if the different engine is fitted. Also, I bought a PD150 turbo a few months ago and due to this happening I now intend to fit this at the same time and remap the car to suit.

I would really appreciate your thoughts and experiences regarding this so I can make a start at sourcing a replacement engine.
 

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A pd 130 or 150 should fit but unless your remapping engine or its remapped your better sticking with the origibnal turbo. another thing when looking for an engine, from 2002 the 130 and the 150 are the same engine it just had different turbo etc

do they know for sure its a piston? could be a dodgy injector either.
 

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My sympathies go out to you on this !

Really bad luck there.

I do remember a thread on here about a year or so ago that was titled or about PD engines going ka-put at 130k. And also remember that there was not a conclusion to it.

Sadly it seems, your problem may be that conclusion.

[edit] here is the thread link

http://www.uk-mkivs.net/forums/19538/ShowPost.aspx
 

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My sympathies go out to you on this !

130/150 can run on the same loom thats already in your 115bhp. I'm runinng a 130 ECU on a late 2000 model 115 and I've also tried a 150 ECU.. I'm also have a 130 turbo, intlet and all the pipe work

Wiring difference on the 130/150. Late 130's and all the 150's have extra heater elements in the back of the engine in a water feed. That requires extra wire coming from the ECU that can put in and fed through a relay. Thats not really need to get everything up and runing. The 150 you need to extend the MAP sensor wire. Don't forget the 150 has a front mounted intercooler, the MAP sensor is in a different place.

If you do go 130/150 you need all the pipework, inlet manifold, airbox etc. intercooler.

If you want to rebuild you existing 115 I know where there is two complete blocks, you can PM

My advise is go 130/150. Before I forget your existing ECU will run the 130/150 engine no problem. The mapping will be wrong, 115 power comes in a lot earlier than 130/150 and dies down a lot earlier as well. If you get 130/150 engine grab the ECU as well. PM me I know someone who can help you get that coded into your car. .

Good luck

aRd

 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Many thanks for all the advice and examples given here's it's really appreciated in helping me decide how to go about my next steps in getting back on the road.

A slightly aside note but one hears that gearboxes have different maximum torque ratings for their internals. Should I seriously consider trying to locate an engine and gearbox, at quite a bit more cost?? I'm just concerned that I'll have more non-working parts six months down the line in my back garden if I don't do this also...

I think I'm going to try and source a PD150 engine with ECU, inlet manifold and intake pipework. Anything salvagable from my engine I can use to make back a few pennies, not that I expect that to be much!
 

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If he isnt that interested in modding etc. he can always transfer from his old engine the inlet manifolds etc, it should be a straight fit on the 130s and 150s.

Im sure your existing gearbox should be fine. One other thing, the flywheel seems to be a diffferent part number on the 130/150 engine you might need a clutch also.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
aRd, many thanks for your notes on this it's really appreciated however regarding the PD150 engine (code: ARL),I've tried sourcing the standard intercooler to go with that and have not had any luck before. I think they get snapped up very quickly by those who want an upgrade so do you think the car would run safely with my standard side-mounted intercooler, or best not to risk it??

I think I'll search for as complete an engine as possible including intercooler, all intake pipework and flywheel as very kindly noted by Micky 32 as well as a fresh clutch because fitting one at a later date is going to be more expensive. Also, many thanks for confirming that my gearbox should be okay it's one less thing on the ever-growing shopping list.

Has anyone else had experience coding ECU's to cars?? I guess it's a bit much for Vag-Com and more likely to be the official VW tool for it, any procedure on how to do this would be really appreciated since I have access to the proper VAG*55* tool, whatever it's called.

Right, I'll start putting out some wanted ads, am also going to buy a magazine or two to try and find a garage not too far away to undertake this task. Thanks again for all the time taken to advise me regarding this, it seems everytime I try to spend money and mod my car the thing forces me to spend at least double the amount of money again on maintenance!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hello, I have been informed that it will be very difficult to locate a PD150 (code: ARL) engine, because they are a lot rarer than the PD130 (code: ASZ), which in turn should make the purchase of the 130 engine quite a bit cheaper.

Either way I now need to find out the difference in flywheel sizes because I know that there is at least 10mm difference in clutch sizes between my engine and the above two engines. Does anyone have any details as to the clutch and flywheel sizes for the PD 115, 130 and 150??

Hear from you soon, many thanks!
 

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Coding the ECU, depend which ECU you're going to fit.

My tip is get the ECU, clocks and keys from the same car you get the engine from. That will make the replacement simple. Swap your ecu , clocks and use the transponder part of the key from the donor vehicle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Update:

After a few phone calls and some good advice I've now found the following: the gearboxes in my car and the 130 and 150 hp models are the same except very really minor internal differences, which means that externally it will still fit to a different engine and even the appropriate 10mm larger flywheel and clutch will fit, result! One thing I overlooked is the starter motor that may need to be changed, but upon checking different part numbers out it appears that the rating and type of starter motor is the same between vehicles.

Now I'm just about ready to purchase an engine, like someone has very kindly noted I will need the ECU so that I can maintain the basic settings of cam timing and things that are appropriate to the engine I fit. I will also need a different MAF housing and airbox lid because the 115 engine uses a smaller housing, this would result in duff readings with the new ECU. You're right the clocks and keys would be a great idea but I also have a contact or two now who can re-code and match the old and new parts together.

For reliability I intend to fit a found mounted cooler but the price needs to be right to do this at the same time. I now have contacts who can mandrel bend pipe in stainless or aluminium so I could potentially make a complete custom item to sit in front of my radiator. This is however a lot more time consuming and there are more hurdles to overcome this way.

Will update once an engine is sourced.
 

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Just to let you know, i have a Bora with 148k on it.  Last week took it in to RSD, to let Danny Witrow (ex VW Rally team mechanic look at it), nothing wrong just thought i would ask him to take a good look at the turbo before getting a remap, he said it was in very good condition, and couldnt fault it. They have a Seat pd engine with 450k plus there.
 

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its the luck of the draw.

My turbo packed in at 70,000 miles, 90% miles were motorway.. My car has alway been looked after. What was wrong with the turbo was sticking vanes, coked up. I was told you should give it some stick every so often.

cmgreen did they take your turbo apart to come to the conclusion it was in very good condition. Did they connect up a boost guage, measure the boost been produced under load?

cmgreen what remap did you get and the verdict, good and bad points.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Have now located an engine, very low miles but I have to pay for that, it even includes all that i require to do the conversion. It's from a 2001 car with 29k miles on and is a few pennies short of ?900 including delivery. This is more than I expected but my only other quote at present was ?1200 and I'm not sure if it's safe to wait too long in case the engine gets snapped up. Is this a reasonable price to pay for the engine, ECU, MAF housing, airbox and inlet manifold??
 

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Have now located an engine, very low miles but I have to pay for that, it even includes all that i require to do the conversion. It's from a 2001 car with 29k miles on and is a few pennies short of ?900 including delivery. This is more than I expected but my only other quote at present was ?1200 and I'm not sure if it's safe to wait too long in case the engine gets snapped up. Is this a reasonable price to pay for the engine, ECU, MAF housing, airbox and inlet manifold??
which spec engine is it? 130 ?
 

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quite a lot in my opinion, I bought a 130 engine a couple of years back
complete with all ancillaries, but no ecu maf or airbox for ?300.

I also got a quote more recently for mk5 gt tdi engine, box, loom and ecu and clocks for ?600.

I wouldn't bother with the ecu, just remap your ecu to suit. It won't fuel right anyway if you are mixing and matching parts.
 

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quite a lot in my opinion, I bought a 130 engine a couple of years back
complete with all ancillaries, but no ecu maf or airbox for ?300.

I also got a quote more recently for mk5 gt tdi engine, box, loom and ecu and clocks for ?600.

I wouldn't bother with the ecu, just remap your ecu to suit. It won't fuel right anyway if you are mixing and matching parts.
That MK5 TDI engine kit is cheap. Aidan is that a 2.0 TDI engine or
is it 105bhp 1.9 TDI PD. I guess you're lucky at finding engines that cheap.
?600 is cheap for a current engine, clocks,ecu and loom. .

I wouldn't say that engine setup for ?900 is that expensive. They're not that
easy to come by, unless you know different and can point us all in the right
direction.. If you're fitting the complete 130 engine, inlet manifold, airbox
etc. Why would the fueling be wrong if you're fitting the ECU that came with
the engine? Aidan I think you've misunderstood, he is fitting the complete 130 engine, 130 inlet manifolds and all the intercooler pipe work to suit.and the airbox with the larger maf holder. A good custom remap is going to cost you a couple of hundred pounds anyway. They're going to start with flashing the 115 ECU with 130 code and work from there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Good evening

Aidan I see where you're coming from because a friend said that he saw a PD130 engine a few months back go for ?250, bargain and I was hoping to pay less than ?500 for mine with all the bits, however the one that he spotted must have been a tad closer to it's first 100k miles or something because my alternative quotes for two engines one with 21k and the other 39k were both going for ?1200, without the other bits that I needed for it!

I guess I could have waited out a little longer but I can't be without a car for too long, am borrowing a petrol car and it guzzles to say the least. I'm going to try and remove my engine during tomorrow, or at least see how far I can get doing it. Does anyone have any advice or things to be weary of when I go to do this?? I'll have a read in to it tonight but I'm a little unsure about moving the air-con system, can't have that blowing up in my face and I'd like not to have to re-charge it if possible. We'll see though.

Am also ordering all new engine mount bolts, inlet and exhaust gaskets and downpipe to turbo nuts, as well as a fresh timing belt and auxilery belt, is there anything else I should add to the shopping list?? Since the car will be up on axle stands I think I'm going to remove the wishbones also and replace the bushes with something better, am not sure whether to go with R32 bits of Seat LCR ones though, will decide before the weekend is out.

Have a nice weekend!
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Right, some positive progress has now been made today, the front end of my car is now looking pretty naked with the power steering pump supported out of the way with a piece of wire as is the air-con radiator. Also removed is the downpipe, driveshafts, battery and tray and the airbox and intake pipework. I've saved a bit of the coolant but already have a fresh tub of G12 ready to go in it and all the pipes, wires and gear s elector mechanism is disconnected so other than removing the air-con compressor the engine and box is very nearly ready to come out!

Have been having a little difficulty locating an engine hoist though, but I hope to sort this in the next few days. But for now, I'm going to try and do somthing about my sore aching hands, they've been exposed to the cold village elements, oil and coolant for too many days now!

Well, I thought doing to rear axle bushes looked like a big job, this is a task and a half. I'll try remember to take some pictures tomorrow.
 
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