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hi,

with the weather we have had recently, i have noticed that in the mornings when i am driving. i press the clutch pedal to change gear. the clutch pedal doesnt come fully back up. then usually about 1-2 secs later, the clutch pedal will 'pop' to its normal position, the second travel is about an inch. when the car is fully warmed up its ok. is something on its way out.?????
 

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Hi there..

A friend of mine has an ARL 150 Golf 4 with a similar fault. The story... very similar fault to yours, clutch pedal sticking down mainly in cold weather. He had the master cylinder renewed 3 times, bled system and would be ok for about 9months. This time he brought it to me to look at, the clutch was also slipping under load so I took out the gearbox for a look. The long and short of it is that we renewed the Dual Mass Flywheel, clutch, (both parts), the gearbox primary shaft oil seal (which had been leaking). Checked the crank rear main (engine oil seal- that was ok). Also renewed the combined slave cylinder / release bearing unit. Put the gearbox back in, went to bleed the clutch, and the master cylinder would not pump any fluid through, even with the pressure bleeding kit attached. Renewed the master cylinder next (4th one now!), renewed the elbow on the end of it that goes to the pipe to the slave cylinder via what I think is the clutch damper (circular unit that both pipes screw into) and also renewed the bleed nipple holder which was just beginng to show signs of leaking. Then bled the system, all ok.

A week later he phones me to say that the clutch pedal is back to not returning properly particularly in the cold mornings , basically doing what it was doing before, although obviously we have cured the clutch slipping.

So at the moment, I can't, unfortunately, tell you what the problem is, only what the problem on my friend's car ISN'T! I am now thinking the problem may lie in the pipe, flexible hoses, or the "damper"? Everything else is brand new... I'll be back here when I find out... soon.
 

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My 1.8T AUM used to do that, when depressed all the way and then let go i used to get a slight sticky feeling, havent noticed it much recently tho.

Will keep an eye out and post back in a few days or so.

Sorry couldnt help, just thought id share...
 

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i'm interested to know also why this seems to happen more in cold weather.....

I had initially put it down to the master cylinder being made of (stupid) plastic!

Might try using a "brake pipe joiner" to isolate the clutch "damper".... might / might not work. Let you know the outcome when I get the car back. I've also read tonight on here that the little neopene (Rubber) seals at the bleed nipple section might be the cause (sorry too late to look up a link now!) will do one thing at a time and report back. This is highly common on these cars and I will get to the bottom of it...
 

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hmm mine does this.. the clutch pedal returns ok but if you hover your foot over pedal with light pressure on it you can feel the pedal kick back when you apply throttle...I have been told it could be the dog bone mount is allowing too much movement under load and I also have a slippling clutch too not its been re mapped.

if anyone finds an answer to this I would be most interested
 

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The answer in my case was to renew ALL the seals in the clutch pipe connections. The O-rings at the master cylinder are difficult to renew! But not impossible. The complete bleed screw unit nearer the gearbox I renewed complete. The o-rings seem to wear in the plastic housings and I think they are then capable of allowing air to be drawn in to the system, but without showing any sign of leaking fluid outwardly. Then bleed the system as you normally would (VW recommend pressure bleeding) and as you probably know, the pedal does not always seem firm at first. Pump the pedal 20 times or so, sometimes |I have found it to be worth just leaving the pedal alone for a few hours, then come back and pump it again and see if it is firm and working the clutch. Re the clutch damper unit, I took the one off of this car and took the plate off the back of it (destroying it in the process!).. it simply consists of the housing you see on the outside, with an inlet and an outlet for the fluid - there is nothing inside it that can go wrong,just a chamber for fluid, and no o-rings there that can leak, simply normal brake pipe union connectors to it. Since renewing the seals in the pipe there have been no more problems :)
 
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