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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I Drive a 2000 Bora, Started out as a PD110 Sport, but the previous owner dropped in a PD150, allard EGR delete, Allard front mount intercooler, various other uprated bits and got it mapped hitting 202.3bhp.

He also upgraded the front brakes to 312mm (audi s3) brakes.

I have never been impressed with the responsiveness of the brakes, and recently a friend bout a Seat Leon Cupra with the same brakes on and his are much sharper, my problem is i'm not a mechanic, but I know my brakes aren't right and all mechanics seem to think they are fine, but to me there is definatly too mcuh travel int eh pedal and it is to soft. My friends cupra stops like an S3, just a gentle tap on the pedal and you stop on a penny.

I insisted my mechanic bleed the brakes up with fresh fluid, which he did, but there is no difference, which he expected, I think mechanics just look at a standard looking tdi bora and think well its got good enough brakes to stop, but these are uprated for a reason and don't show it.

My mechanic suggests leaving it as it is, I have had a few suggestions from buy a new master cylinder, to braided brake hoses, and new pads (my pads are fine though, got a few thousand miles left on them yet).

Where should I begin, If I could buy a new master cylinder and braided hoses and have both fitted and see my brakes operate as they should then I would be happy, but to buy both and see no difference I would understandably be miffed off.

I wonder if the PD110 master cylinder and servo are different and it needs a PD150 one ?

I read about the EGR valve being used to crate vaccume for the servo, my valve has been removed, could this be related? somewhere else i read the EGR valve doesn't do this and an electric vaccume pump is used instead.

any ideas ? any pointers ? Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Is it possible that a fault somewhere lets air back in when they are bled, or is my mechanic just not bleeding them properly at all ? Maybe i could take it somewhere reputable like Awesome GTI for a bleed up but I cant afford for them to do extensive work such as changing the master cylinder etc if its required.
 

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German Engineering at its Best
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wher abouts in the uk are you mate?

feel free to come round if you are near liverpool and i have a quick look with a verdict FOC.

JJ
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for that I might take you up on it, I'm in North Manchester you are 1 hour from me.

What are your opening hours ? I could call up at weekend or one day next week, I would like to come early in the morning, and presuming a viable solution is found get it done the same day if possible.

I have also got a set of 40mm lowering springs in the post to me, I could get them fitted whilst there, how much would you charge for that ?

Thanks
 

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German Engineering at its Best
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hi,

my opening times are 10am-7pm.

i will have a look on elsa tomorrow if there is a difference in master cylinder sizes between the pd110 pd150 and s3.

lowering springs on a mk4 is 100+VAT.

what day were you thinking? only asking as i am currently a little bit spread out in the workshop fitting a techart magnum kit to a cayenne turbo hehe.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I could do weekend or any day next week, i'm fairly flexible whenevers best for you, this week I have to get some work done though, i'm self employed and got nothing done today due to loosing the car in the garage for the day.
 

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German Engineering at its Best
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next week will be best for me TBH.

saturday might be possible but i would know thursday the earliest. i can pm you towards the weekend and we take it from there if you want.

JJ
 

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Hi,

Did you ever get to the bottom of this one? Had mine in the garage on and off for a while now trying to get to the bottom of a similar problem - had new pads, discs, calipers, vacuum hoses and master cylinder plus many bleeds but still soft as they come.

Would be good to get some advice before getting to the really expensive bits...

Thanks in advance,

Phil
 

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Hi,

Did you ever get to the bottom of this one? Had mine in the garage on and off for a while now trying to get to the bottom of a similar problem - had new pads, discs, calipers, vacuum hoses and master cylinder plus many bleeds but still soft as they come.

Would be good to get some advice before getting to the really expensive bits...

Thanks in advance,

Phil
I've got a similar problem (which I'm pretty certain is air in the ABS unit), but I'd be interested in the outcome to this too.
 

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Hi,

Did you ever get to the bottom of this one? Had mine in the garage on and off for a while now trying to get to the bottom of a similar problem - had new pads, discs, calipers, vacuum hoses and master cylinder plus many bleeds but still soft as they come.

Would be good to get some advice before getting to the really expensive bits...

Thanks in advance,

Phil
I've got a similar problem (which I'm pretty certain is air in the ABS unit), but I'd be interested in the outcome to this too.
TTS Roadsport in Bedford managed to get the pedal back without going down the ABS unit replacement route - apparently they took the car out for a few big stops and then did an immidiate re-bleed. Has made a huge difference, I wouldn't say the pedal is rock solid but you can stop properly again and I've got confidence back in them.

Very happy with TTS for sorting this one out for me.

Cheers,

Phil
 
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