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Snapped off bolts on 99 1.8t

1650 Views 12 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  Jusanuvadubber
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It recently became urgent to change the n/s engine mount due to excessive engine travel, even with penetrating oil and heat I was unable to remove these 2 engine mount to gearbox mounting plate bolts.

I am led to agree that these are stretch bolts and now I wonder if they had previously been reused.

I plan to re thread these over the coming week as have been unable to extract the old bolts.

My question is do people think this is the best way forward, I know there is the gearbox mount to engine mount section I could replace (3 bolts I think), and I wonder if this might be a safer bet if the threads don't hold or am I likely to find the same scenario by changing out the plate also.

Was meant to be putting new Avon's on her this weekend and fix the horrendous exhaust blows.

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Id be tempted to change the mount.
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Change the mount & use a good strong screw extractor to get the broken bolts out, you should have space in there to get a drill in to drill part way into the bolts ! Then the correct size extractor will grip in the drilled holes to loosen bolts & keep spraying the de-grip till you get round to removing the bolts.
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As above. And they might even come out fairly easily as there won't be the same tension on them.
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Get another mount from a breaker, a lot easier than messing about.
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Whether or not it holds depend entirely on the state of the threads after you remove them bolts. If the threads are good then they'll hold. But I would just replace the mount as everyone else said, a lot less work and it's pretty easy to change the mount; only 3 bolts to the gearbox. I doubt your local breakers would want much for it.
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Morning Gents thanks for the replies.

The consensus seems to be to replace the g/b mount mount. I prefer this idea as I would rather know I have good threads than wonder if every time I go over a big bump if my engine is going to be taking a trip south towards the floor !!

Those who said to extract the bolts, this was my plan until heat, penetrating oils and extractors failed to shift them over a two day period, I am pretty handy but a mechanic I am not. I took my time, sought advice and extractor tools and still ended up in this position.I think if I had of pushed the extractors any further I may well have to remove snapped hardened metal also. Meh lol.

I have located a part locally for £20, £25 on the bay so only the bolts to order now which I believe are not stretch bolts and vw parts opens Monday now so I have another day to look in my engine bay and shake my head and worry about snapping off the 3 bolts to gearbox bell housing.

Again thanks for all those whom have chimed in, will post up a follow up on my progress next week.

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Update.

I just couldn't leave it alone today even though it is a day of rest my mind was unable to.

Removed 3 x 16 mm bolts from engine mount - gearbox mount mount. first two working from left to right were not all that tight but the last on the right was very so as usual worked slowly with penetrating spray and patience undoing around half a turn and re tightening to aid removal with threads intact. Required removal of wheel 17 mm and inner arch Torx T20, keep one bolt in loose to stop the bracket from rotating left and right whilst undoing and doing up the last bolt which for me was the right hand 16 mm through the gearbox casing and locating in the brackets thread as opposed to the g/box like the other 2 16 mm's.

Also removed 1 x 13 mm bolt to bracket from short engine - gearbox support bar.

Next job is breakers for new bracket and the stealers for some bolts, refitting reversal of removal and should take 15 minutes after removal of debris and a clean up of the earthing bolt beneath the battery tray as it looks corroded and i am aware this chassis bolt can cause problems with the fuel gauge if resistance builds up through corrosion.

Will post photo's of new parts in place on Monday and normal service / boost should be continued shortly :D

Thanks again to those who offered opinions whether I took you advice or not it is gratefully recieved !!

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No worries fella! Chuffed you sorted it tho, its always a headache when bolts shear off! Think weve all been there hahaa
The thing is with using an extractor kit is if your not used to using them it can make u think that if you go to rough with the extraction youl make it worse but in actual fact at times You need to go bit rough so to break the seal & as stated by others some times the bolts will normaly just loosen without force.
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Glad you're sorted Mark.

No worries fella! Chuffed you sorted it tho, its always a headache when bolts shear off! Think weve all been there hahaa
The thing is with using an extractor kit is if your not used to using them it can make u think that if you go to rough with the extraction youl make it worse but in actual fact at times You need to go bit rough so to break the seal & as stated by others some times the bolts will normaly just loosen without force.
Especially when the bolts have thread lock on them. Usually requires a bit of force to break it.
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Wrong bolts used. They are steel and mount is ali. They will be fused in.
Wrong bolts used. They are steel and mount is ali. They will be fused in.
Quite exactly Chris :/ Another past uncovered and rectified though !!
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Hi All.

Update and closure of problem.

Mount obtained second hand in good condition fitted and new correct aluminium m12 bolts have been installed and torqued :)

Engine has markedly less movement.

A problem caused, as Chris quite rightly pointed out, due to incorrect steel bolts being refitted into an aluminium housing and thread thus causing ceasing through a chemical reaction occurring between the two. An obvious mistake caused by someone with the aptitude of a gibbon I am guessing.

Once again thanks all who chipped in info or pointers, wont be long before I am back I am sure.

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