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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My 2000 Mk4 Golf GTI 150bhp AUM has started to shake and judder at low revs after a period of non use. No codes being thrown up. Took it to a garage and they said the biggest thing was an iffy fuel injector, which they changed. Things have definitely improved but there’s still poor idle (Steering wheel shaking) and juddering at low revs plus thirsty fuel consumption.

Had a look at the throttle body and cleaned it, that made no no difference. Likewise checked the air filter and that’s ok. Could be a vacuum leak somewhere or a dodgy camshaft sensor. It’s a puzzle. The injector work was £500 and I’m a bit reluctant to spend more money on diagnosis unless there’s an easyish fix to correct the rough drive. The power at the higher revs is still there but I reckon it’s about 50% of the smoothness in the lower revs it once had! It’s had several years of regular oil and filter services but I suspect that the 166K miles on the engine are catching up. It’s got an MOT till Oct so debating whether to sell as is. Leather seats, rust free example and still fast so reluctant to give up on a car I’ve had since 2012!
 

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replace the fuel filter, clean the intank fuel pump filter that is in the bottom of the fuel pump, than chuck in an an injector cleaner on a quarter of a tank, than take it to the motorway and drive it like you stole it...

that should be your fuel system completely clean after that... if it still shakes than it can be a sinple misfire because you got an intermittent coilpack or bad sparkplugs... or broken spark plug cable... long story short look at those parts, and replace the plugs for new ones.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for that! Fuel filter hasn't been changed for a few years so that's worth a shout. Plugs were all changed last week. Had some misfires in 2016 that were flagged on VAGCOM and changed all the coilpacks for eBay jobs, which sorted things, so that's another avenue. It's annoying as car still has decent power and I spent quite a bit of cash on lights/bushes/wishbone arms/tyres to get it through the MOT in October; it just runs rubbish at the moment and it's that familiar story of wondering whether it's worth the tinkering if it continues to run like a 18th century boneshaker bicycle! Everything else works as it should do!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
If it helps, video of the engine at idle and door shake.Could this be down to duff engine mounts? Neighbour thinks there's a tappet issue, from the sound.
and
 

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when was the last time the engine actually got a big service? and with big service i mean all filters,fluids,belts and tensioners changed... if you haven't done that and are running on +2 year old oil (or longer)... take the thing in for a big service... because if that is the case I doubt you'd diy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
when was the last time the engine actually got a big service? and with big service i mean all filters,fluids,belts and tensioners changed... if you haven't done that and are running on +2 year old oil (or longer)... take the thing in for a big service... because if that is the case I doubt you'd diy.
Nearly the case - last had an oil/oil filter change in July last year, spark plugs changed last week. Don’t think it’s had a major service for several years so that’s the next step, for sure.
 

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well in that case, get a flushing oil, use as described, drop the old oil, replace the oil filter, replace sump plug and crush washer (unless it's a magnetic one, than only the washer will suffice) fill with new oil (5w30)... if it doesn't have a sport air filter replace it with a new one... (if it's a sport filter wash it out and re-oil it) that should be the engine having clean fuel/air and good sparks...
 

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My 2000 Mk4 Golf GTI 150bhp AUM has started to shake and judder at low revs after a period of non use. No codes being thrown up. Took it to a garage and they said the biggest thing was an iffy fuel injector, which they changed. Things have definitely improved but there’s still poor idle (Steering wheel shaking) and juddering at low revs plus thirsty fuel consumption.

Had a look at the throttle body and cleaned it, that made no no difference. Likewise checked the air filter and that’s ok. Could be a vacuum leak somewhere or a dodgy camshaft sensor. It’s a puzzle. The injector work was £500 and I’m a bit reluctant to spend more money on diagnosis unless there’s an easyish fix to correct the rough drive. The power at the higher revs is still there but I reckon it’s about 50% of the smoothness in the lower revs it once had! It’s had several years of regular oil and filter services but I suspect that the 166K miles on the engine are catching up. It’s got an MOT till Oct so debating whether to sell as is. Leather seats, rust free example and still fast so reluctant to give up on a car I’ve had since 2012!
If you have a polybushed dog bone mount, change it back to stock. I recently had the same issue and stock removed all judder. Also If you’ve cleaned throttle body then align it properly in vcds or similar. Again this totally smoothed out my idle.


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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
If you have a polybushed dog bone mount, change it back to stock. I recently had the same issue and stock removed all judder. Also If you’ve cleaned throttle body then align it properly in vcds or similar. Again this totally smoothed out my idle.


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The symptoms sound very much like what I have. Juddering in the low revs, have to ride the clutch, fine at 2000rpm but still a bit of vibration. Only thing that makes me think it’s not that is that the vibration is exactly the same both in and out of gear, which I've read shows it's the mounts.
 

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If it is the dogbone mount causing it than when the car is in gear the vibrations disappear to return again when you change gear... so if you don't have that a simple check of the engine mount bolts ( see if they are all on tight enough) would rule that out completely ( dogbone mount included of course)

But i think once he has done a big service the car will run smooth without the juddering.
 

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Having similar issues myself have you checked intercooler MAP sensor?


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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Well, took it to my nearest garage and after a quick inspection they said that it was the clutch. (Which I know is on its way out, but this is a different issue!) Have got it booked in to VW Lookers in Wimbledon for a proper diagnosis, before going down the service route. Just too many things I could throw cash at! Hopefully they should be able to pinpoint the issue. If it's fixable, then should be worth getting the clutch done as well for another year's use.If not, well, it's got an MOT until October so if I sell it now, even with a rough idle, I'd hope to get £500 or so for it as everything else is fine, with four brand new blimmin' tyres!
 

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nope these cars are worth next to nothing when something isn't just right... the last mk4 gti 1.8t i saw with problems was sold at just above scrap price and even i was shocked at how low it sold for... 450 pounds.. had he done the clutch he would easily be able to sell it at the lowest price of 1000 pounds, more with a fresh MOT.
 

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nope these cars are worth next to nothing when something isn't just right... the last mk4 gti 1.8t i saw with problems was sold at just above scrap price and even i was shocked at how low it sold for... 450 pounds.. had he done the clutch he would easily be able to sell it at the lowest price of 1000 pounds, more with a fresh MOT.
Price all depends on a lot of things.


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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Had a quick spin in the heat and it's still juddering in 1st and 2nd. Idle starts off at above 10000 and there's no shaking, then after a few mins goes down to 8000 and judders and shakes like someone's panning for gold. Easily noticed by any driver so even with a MOT it's going to be hard offer to buyers! I'm assuming that the VW diagnostics is a bit more sophisticated than my little red eBay code reader, which is saying all is fine...
 

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What a thread.

Spark plugs don't have wires, AUM is coil pack.
Oil doesn't cause an idle misfire.
Mounts don't make a difference, you have a distinct shudder.

Use VCDS to check Block 32 - these are your fuel trims. If high, you have a leak. PCV on these are shocking and likely fucked. Run your hand under the inlet and touch pipework. If your hand comes back oily, traditional 1.8t vac system.

First video has a high idle and sounds like an exhaust leak, albeit a small one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
What a thread.

Spark plugs don't have wires, AUM is coil pack.
Oil doesn't cause an idle misfire.
Mounts don't make a difference, you have a distinct shudder.

Use VCDS to check Block 32 - these are your fuel trims. If high, you have a leak. PCV on these are shocking and likely fucked. Run your hand under the inlet and touch pipework. If your hand comes back oily, traditional 1.8t vac system.

First video has a high idle and sounds like an exhaust leak, albeit a small one.
Thanks Adam. Will def look into fuel trims.Will report back tomorrow!
 
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