[rogacp]

Hi!

I hope you can help me here. I have 2 button old style key - P/N 1J0 959 753 A:

I would like to have another key - 3 button new style (or at least 2 button new style):

My car is 1999 VW Golf AGU - WVWZZZ1JZXWxxxxxx, Central Convenience Module - 1J0 959 799 N, Instrument Cluster - 1J0 919 881 BX (A4-KOMBIINSTR. VDO V01).

Can I please get a Yes or No on this keys:

1J0 959 753 P (3 button new style) - preferred choice

1J0 959 753 N (2 button new style)

1J0 959 753 AH and 1J0 959 753 DA (3 button new style 434 MHz)

1J0 959 753 CT (2 button new style 434 MHz)

Hopefully someone has tried this before (new style key with old car). My first choice would be 1J0 959 753 P, so if it works just write yes [].

Thank you!!

PS: I have tried an Audi key before: P/N 8E0 837 220 Q - 433 MHz. No luck with that one, I sold it to an Audi owner. Here is the picture:

 

[geordie130]

A source in my local stealers tells me that the transponders in the remote fob are year and date pacific according to bulid date, ie a twin button fob for say a 2002 Bora /Golf supplied new and uncoded would be no good for for a 2003 Bora/Golf when he looked up my car on EKTA there was a choice of three variants for my year alone. All that foriegn shite will cause probs, the blades snap and the transponder frequency is not always bang on. VW does not release any chip/transponder or imobiliser codes any more or so I have been told so dont jump on me if you know different.

I just had a new one done at the stealers £225 all in,

Ordered at VW, cut and delivered from Germany, car in to stealers new imobiliser code for ecu programmed in and then new and remaining keys coded all within four days, plus the key fitted first time and is under warranty.

 

[AEM_Bulldog]

1J0 959 753 P (3 button new style) - preferred choice

1J0 959 753 N (2 button new style)

I am using this key at the moment.

If it helps, I was using 753 N @ 433Mhz and replaced with 753
P @ 433Mhz without any problems. I would of thought so long as the
frequency is the same (which I believe it is) either one would of the ones above would work fine
with your car.

Hope that helps, Az.

 

[rogacp]

If it helps, I was using 753 N @ 433Mhz and replaced with 753
P @ 433Mhz without any problems.

OK. So that means that 753 N and 753 P are completely interchangeable. I will take 753 P then.

 

[rogacp]

Hello!

I have received my new key yesterday and it worked great! Thank you for help!

However I have a problem with immobiliser. Vag-com won't take my SKC - Login code for immobiliser. I have my code on a plastic key tag but Vag-com says it' not correct... Any ideas?

 

[aham_uk]

Add a 0 to the start

 

[rogacp]

Thank you! Already tried that. No success. [brick]

Any ideas how much want stealers for a key matching? Just immo.

 

[aham_uk]

If you have put the wrong code in the cluster can lock for a certain time.

Dealers charge anything upto £85 but you must have a virgin transponder. That is if you can find a dealer to do it.

 

[rogacp]

Is there a way to tell if cluster is locked? I think group 3 in Measuring Blocks. But on my cluster there is nothing even remotely similar to this. I think it's gas capacity and temperature...

My cluster: 1J0 919 881 BX, A4-KOMBIINSTR. VDO V01

I have put the correct code in the first time, but then I tried without the 0 in the beginning. I have tried with another software - wbh-diag 0.89 - same result.

 

[aham_uk]

Under instruments, check measure values to for lock times.

 

[rogacp]

OK, here is how I tried several times:

My SKC:

Measuring Blocks, I think nothing relevant to the coding process:

I found group 22 and 23. Useful?

And then trying to login - failed [:S]

Any help appreciated.

 

[aham_uk]

I think that 4 digit code is the mechanical code. The SKC was normally under a scratch area.

 

[rogacp]

There was black paint over this code so I scratched it off. On the other side of the key tag is just W328275 - last digits of VIN.

 

[rogacp]

I have moved the transponder from my old key for now. But will try to code the old key as well.

Thank you for trying!

 

[aham_uk]

I would just put the chip from inside the plastic key into the flip key. Probably save you some hassle.

Also, you could check the chassis number and immobiliser numbers match your car.

Other than that, you might need to retrieve the code from the cluster

 

[rogacp]

I tried getting the car started with the plastic key but it's doesn't start. I figured that there isn't a chip in a plastic key.

Hopefully I will find someone with VagTacho and retrieve the SKC. Cluster has propably been replaced for some odd reason and the SKC is for the replaced cluster.

Thank your for help, you are very kind, but until I get my SKC there really isn't much that I can do. []

 

[Kyle_TDI]

I tried getting the car started with the plastic key but it's doesn't start. I figured that there isn't a chip in a plastic key.

Hopefully I will find someone with VagTacho and retrieve the SKC. Cluster has propably been replaced for some odd reason and the SKC is for the replaced cluster.

Thank your for help, you are very kind, but until I get my SKC there really isn't much that I can do.

I have vag tacho pal, im off this week so can travel (within reason) i live in bolton, manchester...

Kyle

 

[rogacp]

Thank you! You are very helpful, but I don't live anywhere near your

I'm not even in the same country http://goo.gl/HIoj - that's where I'm from.

I found a local guy with vagtacho, so next week hopefully I will recode my new-old key.

 

[rogacp]

OK, every problem has a solution so here it goes:

My instrument cluster was replaced (waranty). So naturally SKC on the keytag is for the replaced cluster.

One can tell that it's a replacement part because it has X on the end of product number.

I was lucky and found a mate with a VagTacho that pulled SKC for my cluster. Now everything is fine!

Thank you all for help!