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Decided I had to do this despite living with a known faulty flap motor for over a year as it was effecting the operation of the climatronic system on my car. I was starting to get other fault codes and the system wasn't behaving as it should.

Words of warning here, space is very very tight in accessing the motor you can barely see it let alone work on it. Fortunately though once you understand how it fits it's not to bad.

Below are some photos with a few notes added. The main thing is to understand how it fits on / into the heater housing and that it operates two air flaps, one via the external actuator rods and one where the motor shaft fits over the upper air flap shaft.

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Things to do order of work :-

1, remove glovebox (tip, cut the annoying tag off that means you need to remove the centre console every time, I've cut the tag off and don't suffer any rattles or squeeks)

2, remove scuttle panel, the curved section of trim that goes from the sill to door pillar (pulls off)

3, try and create space for your hands to get in by moving the large wiring loom that just happens to be right in the way. You can get one hand in from below once the scuttle trim is removed and one from above almost below the side air vent once a little space is created.

4, Unclip actuator rod as photo above, use small sharp screwdriver.

5, Unclip wiring to motor

6, Undo fixing screw, location and orientation shown via woodscrew in photo above, tilt motor down at the back about 45 deg and wiggle off top flap shaft and out/ off car.

7, Officially.... The new flap motor comes in the recirc position, you are supposed to connect it and set it to the fresh position to fit. (you try it if you want but I fiddled with no success). My way.... I removed the blower motor which two cover screws at the bottom, motor then slides out of heater assembly downwards. This way you can get your hands on the upper flap from inside the air plenum so that it lines up with the motor shaft. Wiggle / fiddle / wiggle / fiddle for ages, cut / graze and hurt your lower arms at lot, part dislocate your shoulder etc etc. Eventually you'll have the motor in place, fit screw (tip, hold screw to screw driver by taping it on otherwise it'll keep falling off), re-fit wiring, re fit blower motor.

8, Put your dash back together, job done.

It's a tough job, it hurts, you can't see and have to do it blind BUT it is do-able if your reasonable at messing with your car.

Hope it helps one day as this, so I believe is a common problem on our cars.

The cost of the motor was about � 78 from VW (Nov 2005)
 

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Excellent write up!!!, its good to keep these how to,s as you never know when something may go wrong.

Thanks
 

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Right just attempted this ba*?ard job and was all going well untill it came to taking the motor out, i cant for the life of me get the dam thing out, removed the screw and it still seems really tight.

I give up in the end and pluged the harness back in and would you believe it has started working fine again, though i am certain it wont last.

So any more advice on getting the motor out would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Phil
 

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Im sorry to bring up an old thread, but i need to prepare myself for changing this part if the flap reset via the VAG COM doesnt work.

Has anybody, got this in full with the pictures ? Does the orginator still post on here ?

Many Thanks.

Matt
 

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Im sorry to bring up an old thread, but i need to prepare myself for changing this part if the flap reset via the VAG COM doesnt work.

Has anybody, got this in full with the pictures ? Does the orginator still post on here ?

Many Thanks.

Matt
Same here, photos would be a great help. I'll have to tackle this myself over the next few weeks
 

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@ ct.p - any chance you have the Part Number for the part that needs to be replaced & also the old

photos aswell?

Cheers,

Tony
 

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Just to let you guys know i reset my flap motor with a VAG COM and now all works as good as new.

Flap Motor Reset<o:p></o:p>

08
Heater/A.C

04 Basic settings

Channel 000 (30 Secs)

001 (30 Secs)

002 (30 Secs)<o:p></o:p>
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Sorry for ignoring this I'm not on here much these days due to not having a Golf anymore...

Anyway, the pictures are lost sadly but don't let that put you off, it can be done. When you have the new motor it helps as you can see how it is fixed. Note you can't see anything on the car, you are effectively working blind !

As for re-setting the motor, I did this a few times, it lasted for a while but always failed again !
 

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Cheers for the replies lads. I'll try to reset it first & see how long it lasts.

Failing that, I'll order the new fan & prepare to have my knuckles, hands and arms torn off!
 

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I made an attempt at fitting this today and took a couple of photos for people.

You will see below what I think is the actuator rod to be removed. Also Power X I believe is the electrical connection for the V71.When I switched my ignition on it is definitely the bit in there that makes the noise.

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However if you then look at the pic of the V71 below there is no way possible that the black bit at the actuator rod and the Power X both come from the V71. And feeling along the black bit connected to the actuator rod it isn't as long as the black rail bit on the V71.

Having noticed this I then started to wonder if the "V71" in the picture below is the correct part.

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Also having removed then reconnected the power at Power X the V71 no longer makes its gurgly knackered noise.

  1. Does anyone know if the V71 I have pictured is the correct part (V1J0 907 511 AF0204 Air Dist House on VW Receipt)?
  2. If it is the correct part I take it the black bit connected to the white actuator rod doesn't directly come from the V71?

Cheers
 

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im not too sure what your asking. but just take the old v71 out, and connect everyhting back up and put it in again? take the fan housing off and fiddle with that to get it back in as its easier.. hope that helped not sure if it did!
 

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Think this is the one 1J2907511A , Oh and trust me the noise will come back, i had the same thing messed around with it and the noise went for a couple of days then came back...
 

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Yes Phil is correct in that the noise will come back why not open the flap into fresh air position and disconnect the motor as its only used for recirc and I cant see any point of it being there why would you want to recirc the same dusty air in your car other than to keep the aircon cooler we dont get a summer in this country long enough to warrant that.
 

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Think this is the one 1J2907511A , Oh and trust me the noise will come back, i had the same thing messed around with it and the noise went for a couple of days then came back...
Cheers I thought it wasnt the right part so I gave up, glad I did now.

Out of interest how did you release the actuator rod? The OP says use a small sharp screwdriver but I cant see that working really. I was trying a screwdriver and then some long nosed pliers with no luck before I gave up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
The small sharp screwdriver was the only way I found of levering off the arm. Hard to explain but I managed it. It needs to be sharp / new so that it bites and doesn't slip off as you apply leverage.

Also to re-iterate and the easy way, take the fan motor out so you can align the air flap to the motor. Then refit / clip back on the arm for the other flap. Not sure if it is clear from my original post but this motor operates two flaps.

The two sets of cables / looms also are;

One for the V71

The other for the air temp sensor.

Hope this helps.
 

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I have managed to dig out the paper work from ct.p original guide and i have scanned the missing pictures for anyone trying to do this. not the best of quality but they are a few years old now.

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HTH

Phil
 
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