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Discussion Starter · #61 · (Edited)
MOT passed with no advisories. Pleased with that.

Wheel alignment done.

Went past the scrap yard today and got more bits for this one, my mates (wheel arch liners), and my daughter's pd130 ( cowl for the intercooler and the correct seatbelt bracket for the centre shoulder strap). Also got a side part for the undertray on mine.

Once back from MOT some glow plugs were waiting on the doorstep. So out with the old. The one on the right is the new one for comparison.

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Installed and torqued.

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Have left the car as is ready for the glow plug loom which should arrive shortly so I can solder that to the old clip and then route the wiring through the conduit.

Fitted the nearside side panel for the undertray (if that is what you call it). A mod was required with a small cutting disc and the rotary tool to fit the tray over the fan mod wiring.

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Discussion Starter · #62 ·
Decided to take her for a test run today - the glow plug harness arrives Monday. So buttoned her all back together. Not a great start - missing again blue smoke and running on three. That cleared.

Filled her up with clean fuel, and added a shot of acetone as I always do. She warmed up fine and sat steadily on 90 degrees on the temp gauge. Stopped and ran a scan - no new fault codes.

Let the oil warm up some more and then started to stretch her legs. The suspension is OK, though nowhere near as sorted as the PD130 I put coil overs on. Same for tyres. Nice ride but they squirm around under hard cornering, of course, they would being 205/55 R16 rather than 225/45 R17 on the other golf.

Power is interesting - nowhere near as much low down grunt as the PD130 but pulls harder higher up in the revs. Have not had a PD150 drive before. I think I prefer the power delivery of the PD130 - a much more relaxed drive. This one needs working more to get it moving faster. Given the state of the intake manifold, I am wondering if the cat is all clogged up. A decat downpipe might be in order.

Also, brakes are OK but it needs front discs and pads. They look fine but don't feel right.

Overall a nice engaging drive.
 

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Discussion Starter · #63 ·
Just been out for another run. Aside from a little stutter just after starting she ran fine. It is 1 degree here tonight.

The bottom red part of the information display (mpg etc) was just bright red with nothing discernible. I noticed earlier it seemed to be pulsing now and again. This stayed bright red for the entire drive which was about 15 minutes.

Getting a feel for the power delivery - it reminds me a little of my previous Skoda VRS PD170 (mapped to about 210 bhp and 320 ft lbs of torque). Not as severe on the power coming in though.

When I got back I adjusted the headlights up a bit using the adjusters on the lights themselves. The dash display went back to working again. Need to investigate what is happening there. Any thoughts as to what I should check?

The heated seat definitely not working, though the car warms up fast with the preheaters in the coolant.
 

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Discussion Starter · #64 · (Edited)
The blue smoke and misfire at startup has been bothering me. I pulled the camshaft cover and had a longer deeper look at the camshaft.

Based on what I see I have decided to pull the head off, get a new camshaft and lifters, and get the valve stem oil seals and guides done if required, and lap the valves, just like with the black PD130. Started pulling her apart again this afternoon. It's a bit more tricky than with a PD130 with the EGR cooler. Should have the head off tomorrow and down to Eric's place.
 

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Discussion Starter · #65 ·
The leaking headlamp washers have pretty much drained the entire washer tank over the space of 4 days. When I was at the breaker's yard on Friday I picked up a regular washer tank and might install that and just leave the pipes in the car for the headlamp washer. I am undecided as of now, at least I have the luxury of the replacement tank whilst I ponder the problem some more.
 

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Discussion Starter · #67 · (Edited)
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Head is with the machine shop. Should be back with me the week after next with a stronger camshaft, new bearings, lapped valves, new seals, and possibly new guides. I'll change the injectors' seals and bolts as I rebuild the head.
 

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View attachment 52635

Head is with the machine shop. Should be back with me the week after next with a stronger camshaft, new bearings, lapped valves, new seals, and possibly new guides. I'll change the injectors' seals and bolts as I rebuild the head.
Hiya, nice lot of work you're doing :) ok, stupid question....what have you got on cam wheel? Is it just to stop damage while working on removal/taking to shop?
 

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Cheers. Will be a good wee car when it is done. Nothing on the cam wheel there - just removed the toothed wheel.
Threw me!!! Honestly looked like you had a different (smooth) cam drive or cover on it....can see it now....those lobes do look rough though, you keeping it standard or uprating? Been thinking about mine, 207,000 ...still going strong, but for future ,may take it to Darkside to get all redone.....don't believe in getting rid of a good car just because of age/mileage...good luck to you
 

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Discussion Starter · #71 ·
Staying with standard cam profile just uprating to a hardened solid steel one.

In the black PD130 I did recently for my daughter we just put a standard camshaft in that one.

I agree about the cars. Have rescued two now - they are good cars just need refreshing now and again. Thank you for the good wishes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #72 · (Edited)
ian1485 - saw you mentioned a code reader in another thread. am trying to find a cheaper one to keep in the car that can interface with the car including airbag and ABS. Might you be able to suggest one, please? I do have a cheap old one and gave that to my daughter when we completed the pd130 black project for her. now I don't have a small one that can interface with this pd150 I have. many thanks.

Was thinking this might be suitable:
 

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OBDEleven is a nice one as it works from your andriod mobile or Iphone, with a specially made for the program wireless OBD2 adapter... thing is you can leave it connected or just put it in the glovebox/armrest for storage... you can do all the same things you can do with VCDS...

I myself use a standard ELM327BT dongle that is universal for all cars, since i do work on several different brands.. I do have some car specific andriod programs installed that use the ELM327BT dongle but generally it is only for reading and clearing DTC's ( sometimes it won't clear them but i'm not fussed with that as long as it can read the DTC's) used it on newer and older cars that are k--line/ half canbus and full canbus with success and the main reason to only read engine DTC's... no programming or whatsoever (but if you got a car specific program you usually can read all the modules)

But for proper diagnostics and programming i got VCDS for VAG cars, Op-com for Vauxhall, and a few other brand specific programs.. these are all installed on a laptop though and need specific cables.
 

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Discussion Starter · #74 ·
OBDEleven is a nice one as it works from your andriod mobile or Iphone, with a specially made for the program wireless OBD2 adapter... thing is you can leave it connected or just put it in the glovebox/armrest for storage... you can do all the same things you can do with VCDS...

I myself use a standard ELM327BT dongle that is universal for all cars, since i do work on several different brands.. I do have some car specific andriod programs installed that use the ELM327BT dongle but generally it is only for reading and clearing DTC's ( sometimes it won't clear them but i'm not fussed with that as long as it can read the DTC's) used it on newer and older cars that are k--line/ half canbus and full canbus with success and the main reason to only read engine DTC's... no programming or whatsoever (but if you got a car specific program you usually can read all the modules)

But for proper diagnostics and programming i got VCDS for VAG cars, Op-com for Vauxhall, and a few other brand specific programs.. these are all installed on a laptop though and need specific cables.
Thank you.
 

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ian1485 - saw you mentioned a code reader in another thread. am trying to find a cheaper one to keep in the car that can interface with the car including airbag and ABS. Might you be able to suggest one, please? I do have a cheap old one and gave that to my daughter when we completed the pd130 black project for her. now I don't have a small one that can interface with this pd150 I have. many thanks.

Was thinking this might be suitable:
That one looks good - the one I got in the end only allowed me to access engine codes ( despite saying it did airbag/ ABS etc). I’ve ended up using VAGCOM lite - all you need is a laptop, free download and a cable (eBay for about £10-15). Can access most things ( need the full VAGCOM for engine logs etc though). It’s really useful and dead easy to use.
 

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Discussion Starter · #77 ·
That one looks good - the one I got in the end only allowed me to access engine codes ( despite saying it did airbag/ ABS etc). I’ve ended up using VAGCOM lite - all you need is a laptop, free download and a cable (eBay for about £10-15). Can access most things ( need the full VAGCOM for engine logs etc though). It’s really useful and dead easy to use.
Thanks for the response.

I have just sent a code reader back that I thought did airbag etc but did not when I got it here. I want the portable unit to keep in the car. I have a Carista and other code readers that work in the other cars but this wee golf won't play with them. I have VAGCOM lite, lost my lead for the "copy" of 15.7 that I used to have.
 

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Discussion Starter · #78 ·
Have ended up buying a new XTOOL VAG 401 and a used one. So I might have one for sale once they both get here.

Have wired in the new glow plug harness and car is sat waiting for the cylinder head next week then I can rebuild the top end and get enjoying the car again.
 
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