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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
Started on the fan mod tonight. Need to put some thermal paste behind them when I get some - thought I had some left but looks like I did not. Then tidy up the cables tomorrow and put all the connectors back, coolant in and then test things.

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Discussion Starter · #42 · (Edited)
Fitted the new fan control - fans now run on the low speed when I jump pins 1 and 2. but still not on high speed when I jump pins 2 and 3 yet they run at high speed if I apply 12 volts to the fans connectors directly. so am going to put it all back together now and we shall see how things play out. Thermal paste arrived so I will sort that later on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
Fan mod - thermal paste applied to resistors and they are snugged up against the chassis leg. The wiring is secured out of the way and the parts that pass the chassis are in a corrugated black plastic conduit and secured.

Nearside new wing, plastic liner and mudflap fitted.

Front of car built back up, headlights in, bumper on. Everything seems to be working fine.

Coolant added. Will run it tomorrow and top it up as required, same for the power steering fluid.

Wheels back on - noticed the new tyres have lost air - so might need to revisit those again with the tyre shop.

She is finally off axle stands.

Hub nuts properly torqued.

Fitted the plastic bush to the offside rear window so that now operates as it should.

New car mats arrived. So I vacuumed the interior once again and then fitted the mats.

I plan on washing, using the clay bar and then polishing over the weekend.

Also, pull the driver's door lock mechanism and see what is amiss there.

Then my pal can weld the rear axle at some stage next week and the car is booked in for MOT and tracking next Friday.
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 · (Edited)
Fitted the plastic undertray that sits between the fuel tank and the spare wheel well after repairing the broken ear tab with a soldering iron and a cable tie.

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Washed twice, clay barred, then washed again. I'll add some pics after I get the brakes done and it resin polished and back on the ground again.

Back in on axle stands - a boost pipe blew off - reckon that was me not seating it properly.

The brakes are still spongy so I'll bleed the back callipers again.

It's misfiring a bit - might be because it has been sat for a good while. Have to see if that clears itself with a run after the MOT.

Need to get to the breakers to get a side panel for the undertray - nearside.
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 · (Edited)
Boost pipe seated properly.

Brakes pressure bled again. Hopefully, the brakes will be ok now. Will have to see when I start the car again.

Autoglym Resin polished. The top of the back bumper and mirror caps could do with a respray at some point. Overall the car has cleaned up well given it was sat for a year against a fence in a garden and is 20 years old.

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Discussion Starter · #48 · (Edited)
Gave the car a coat of Simoniz wax.

When I was cleaning etc I had been looking at the driver's and passenger's front doors. The trailing edge of both was about 2 mm proud of the leading edge of the back door. I have adjusted the locks and they now sit better. I also adjusted the pull on the driver's door handle by removing the key lock and moving the plastic pull out a few marks. It opens nicely now - before you had to pull it almost to its limit to get the door open. This video helped me with the lock removal:


I know I will be pulling it all apart again to check why the driver's door lock does not work with the FOB, only the key. I can adjust the interior pull handle as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 · (Edited)
Found a water leak from the temp sensor area. Pulled the sensor out and the rubber seal is like a piece of hard plastic. Fortunately, I have a spare new unit on the shelf so that is in now.

Need to change a brake line nearside back left after a small mishap with an axle stand. Will do that at my mate's garage tomorrow when he welds the axle. Also plan to use VCDS to bleed the ABS - currently, hard pedal with then engine off and soft sinking pedal with the engine on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
Replacement mirror cap driver side arrived. Old one had worn paint and looked pretty poor - though does not look to bad in this pic. Not the easiest job when the screws were seized in. drilled one out - the other snapped and broke up as I tried in vain to remove it. Nonetheless the cap should still hold.

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Discussion Starter · #51 · (Edited)
Got a pack of the carbon fibre vinyl for the centre console

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Took apart the driver's door and replaced the door lock with another unit. Now the driver's door locks and unlocks on the fob like the other doors. I will strip the old unit to see if I can get that working - then I can fit that to my mate's PD150 when I do some work on that for him (new wings, battery box, boost pipe, replace leaking intercooler and a remap, plus anything else I find on the way through).

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Edit - I need to pull to door apart again. Never thought to test if the lock actually locked until just before I was getting ready to go to bed. The door lock pin moves but the door does not lock - so I must have put the electrical and mechanical parts together incorrectly the night before. I will get on that in the morning. Also, the temp sensor is weeping a bit so I will pull that and clean the seat for the rubber o-ring and see if that sorts things.
 

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Usually the solder joints crack in the door modules, definitely fixable.

Also, worth putting a bead of silicone or similar between the metal door panel and the door when reassembling, otherwise you may get some water coming in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
Usually the solder joints crack in the door modules, definitely fixable.

Also, worth putting a bead of silicone or similar between the metal door panel and the door when reassembling, otherwise you may get some water coming in.
That’s what I fixed the night before but I must have assembled the electrical and mechanical parts incorrectly. the motor definitely moves now with the fob but the mechanical part of the lock does not lock.

Thanks for tip on silicone. I will do that tomorrow.
 

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Got a pack of the carbon fibre vinyl for the centre console

View attachment 52607

Took apart the driver's door and replaced the door lock with another unit. Now the driver's door locks and unlocks on the fob like the other doors. I will strip the old unit to see if I can get that working - then I can fit that to my mate's PD150 when I do some work on that for him (new wings, battery box, boost pipe, replace leaking intercooler and a remap, plus anything else I find on the way through).

View attachment 52608

Edit - I need to pull to door apart again. Never thought to test if the lock actually locked until just before I was getting ready to go to bed. The door lock pin moves but the door does not lock - so I must have put the electrical and mechanical parts together incorrectly the night before. I will get on that in the morning. Also, the temp sensor is weeping a bit so I will pull that and clean the seat for the rubber grommet and see if that sorts things.
Enjoying this lots…. I’ve had the temp sensor housing crack before with the plastic getting brittle - perhaps worth checking for hairline cracks?
 

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Discussion Starter · #56 · (Edited)
Driver's door stripped again. I had put the lock together incorrectly. All fixed now.

Stripped out the preheater and temp sensor. Since this is a winter pack car the housing is metal with 3 glow plugs as preheaters. At least I presume that is what they are.

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Found a small build-up of crystallised antifreeze where the o-ring seats.

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Cleaned it out carefully with my rotary tool, a small head on it and then some sandpaper, and built it all back up.


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We shall see later if it has solved the weep.
 

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Discussion Starter · #57 · (Edited)
Another day of good progress. Tonight a big thanks once again to my pal Ian.

Got the bracket straightened and a new copper brake line fitted. We will be replacing the other brake line soon - need to drop the fuel tank to get it replaced so that job is for another day.

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The hole in the axle cleaned up.

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Cutting a plate to fit.

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Welding into place.

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Finished repair

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Then set to bleeding the brakes. Old school, me in the driver's seat working the pedal and my pal Ian under the car cracking the bleed nipples. You get a very different view of the workshop when the car is lifted all the way up on a 2 poster. We got a lot of air out of the back brakes and nearside front, yet the pedal was still a bit soft. Found more air in the master cylinder. Brake pedal feels right now.

The misfire settled down on the way home - I reckon she could do with getting a load of good fuel in the tank and a good hard run or two under her belt.

I checked the temp sensor housing just now and all nice and dry so hopefully, that is now sorted. Will check it periodically.

Tyres seem to be holding pressure now.

The headlamp washers are still leaking. I did give them a squirt earlier - looks like the driver's side is a bit reluctant to fire properly. I wonder if they might settle down with some use. Cars sat unused for ages does nothing any good.

I am looking forward to having a good drive in it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #58 · (Edited)
Was thinking about why it runs rough when it starts and there is some smoke. Checked the glow plugs this morning - the harness is falling apart and one of the glow plugs is dead. So have ordered a new harness and 4 new bosch glow plugs.

Also kept firing the headlamp washers - both work well now, still leaking, albeit at a reduced rate. A forum search suggests replacing an o-ring - I shall go and do that now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
Managed to stay mostly out of the line of fire this time. Old o-rings in red, new green ones ready to go in. The replacement is a bit thicker so we shall see what happens.

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Discussion Starter · #60 · (Edited)
The new o-rings slowed things down but still leaking. So I revisited and found them to have been torn as I pushed the plunger part home. So I removed (got wet again) and fitted smaller ones. These seem to seat better. I will check the washer bottle level in the morning and see if it has gone down - put a piece of masking tape on it as a marker.
 
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