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Good man, its an essential tool!

BTW, hop onto polishedbliss (or pay Rich a visit in Oldmeldrum!) to get some Lake Country 4', 6.5' pads and backing plates. I've found they are far better than DAS pads!
 

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I think I paid ?120 for my PC with SONUS pad kit & about ?46 for my transformer, extension lead & plug from screw-fix

Transformer

http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?id=73851&ts=65002

14m Extension cable (essenstial as the PC one is very short)

http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp;jsessionid=3PMJ3YHYKXNCDCJO2C3CIIQ?id=16691&slotName=null&homeRef=&ts=65008&destination=../cat/pro.jsp%3Fid%3D16691%26slotName%3Dnull%26homeRef%3D

Connection Plug to replace the 2pin yank one

http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?cId=101987&ts=65107&id=19947

P&P is free too

Plug Fitting Guide (Borrowed from Detailing World)

Tools required:
Philips Screwdriver
Pliers/Crimping Tool/Stanley knife and a steady hand!

Anyway, the plug on the right needs to be replaced by the one on the left:
Posted Image


You'll notice on the left hand side of the new plug a little screw - undo this and follow the arrows to open the plug:
Posted Image


Next, cut the american plug off the PC:
Posted Image


Push the lead through the hole in the hollow side of the new plug and move down the lead out of the way:
Posted Image


Then you need to cut off some insulation and expose the black (LIVE) and the white (NEUTRAL) wires:
Posted Image


The black (LIVE) goes into the right lower hole - it is marked 'L' on the plug. The white (NEUTRAL) goes into the left lower hole. There is no ground so the top hole stays free. Tighten up the screws in the plug casing to hold the wires in place:
Posted Image


Next, clamp the lead in the clamp and tighten both screws:
Posted Image


Finally, slide the hollow side of the plug up the lead and join both parts together. Use the screw you removed earlier to tighten both parts of the plug together:
Posted Image
 

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I hard-wired mine into the PC, to avoid scratching the car with the connector when working.

I took the back off the PC by removing the screw and prised off the cover. I then carefully observed how the cable and wires were routed, and cut the same length of sheath off my extension cable. I removed the spade ends from the US wires and soldered them on to the extension cable ends, and reassembled everything. Note how the speed adjustment potentiometer clips into the body of the PC.

You do have to lose the rubber anti-twist sheath where the cable joins the PC - I tried to get this onto the extension cable using lots of talc but the cable is a lot fatter the the US cable.
 
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