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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am becoming increasingly frustrated by the long-throw in my 6-speeder chariot of smoky fire.

Diesel-geek have produced a proprietary mod for the car, but i'm STILL not convinced, even after all the talk and pictures, that the TT s elector arm won't fit.

Folks have talked about the battery box - cripes! it'll be a heuge metal lever if it clashes with my battery box - you could drive a bus in the gap!

Is the TT mod purely to reduce fro and aft (front and back) travel, or will it shorten side travel too?

I assume the Diesel Geek system is an all-round improvement?

Pics, links and all corroborative evidence please!! LOL!!
 

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What a brilliant set of GIFs there Foxy, nice one! It definetly seems to shorten the throw, but is that not a bit weird considering the placement of a MK4 box? ie its not as 'to hand' as in the TT, a bit far away for the slick sort of shift?

Maybe my imagination though. Have you done this then or planning to?
 

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quote:

Originally posted by foxy

Folks have talked about the battery box - cripes! it'll be a heuge metal lever if it clashes with my battery box - you could drive a bus in the gap!

Is the TT mod purely to reduce fro and aft (front and back) travel, or will it shorten side travel too?

I assume the Diesel Geek system is an all-round improvement?

Pics, links and all corroborative evidence please!! LOL!!
Hi Jon, Yes the TT lever is a big lump, and it defo does clash with the battery box, although not by a lot. The other thing that worried me was that the actual lever arm length did not look much different. I feel there may be more than one combination of gearlever and gearbox levers, if you see what I mean. I have a TT lever in my boot and will get pics and measurements asap. And, yes, the TT lever can only shorten front to rear movement.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Mike - I am contemplating this mod - not done it yet.

Cheers Reflex/Roger

This is a comparison piccy of two levers : Original is the filthy one!

Posted Image


This is a petrol car (1,8T) so dunno the diff on the TDi version.

Surely if the TT parts is too big, how about just removing some of the weight with the trusty Angle Grinder!??

TT part no - 8N0-711-051

I'll get a look at ETKA soon........
 

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Hi Jon, The diesel one (yours too I guess) has the damping mass in the same plane as the lever, ie. it is flatter. This is to clear the bigger battery box on a diesel car.

What concerns me about the 2 levers you show is that the ball for the for/aft cable appears to be on a bigger radius on the TT version than the 1.8T. Correct me if I'm wrong, but smaller radius = bigger angle turned per cm of cable pull, ie. smaller radius = shorter throw. From rough measurements, the lever length on the TT version is about the same as that on the standard diesel item. As I said before, I will try to do some accurate measurements asap.

What you say about grinding the mass off a bit is true, but cutting away the bottom corner of the battery box (it's not full!) would be just as effective.
 

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Just measured my standard 150PD part and the for and aft lever is 70mm radius. The TT version is 45mm radius, so I guess that means it would cut the for/aft throw by about 1/3rd. It would also increase the effort by 1/3rd, but as the gearchange is pretty light anyway, this shouldn't be a problem.

This is what the standard 150PD part looks like.

Posted Image


The damping mass is mostly hidden behind the "across the gate" lever, but you can see that it doesn't stick up like the 1.8T or TT versions.

Cutting the bottom rear corner out of the battery box would make room for the TT version on a PD. Might be worth trying, Jon. I should have time to play over Christmas, but if you do it before then, let us know how it goes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Cheers Roger

I still favour cutting that weight down to fit - my grinder needs a job!

The original part could then be replaced if required and the battery box would still be intact.

Have you a piccy of the TT part Roger please ??
 

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Like foxy I'm also very interested in this mod. I currently have the Dieselgeek mod. but i feel it lacks refinement and durability. I've got the TT selctor from VW Bob a few weeks ago and i intend to fit it one way or another this weekend. Keep you informed.
 

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Has anyone had a go at this mod on a TDI 150 yet? I've got the new s elector. when you compare the two side by side, with the splined location key in the same orientation the radius part and shaft are 180 degrees in opposite directions. Doesn't look like it's going to fit, unless I've missed something silly.

I've got a picture, but I can't find the up load link on the forum. Anyone taken a closer look? it looks a bit more involved that just a counter balance weight package issue.
 

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Sorry guys - left you high and dry on this one for a while. Just got chance to photogragh my TT lever:

Posted Image


As you can see, if you compare it with the pic of the original lever in my previous post, the orientation of the lever is the same. You can also read the part no. "8NO 711 051" which is what Jon quoted. Have you got the right bit Wakaday, or were you looking at it wrong?

By the way, holding the TT lever as close to working position as possible, I think cutting the battery box is the only option. It would require most of the damping mass grinding off to get it to fit, I reckon. Anyway, what can a battery box cost? Yeah, I know! [:O]
 

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I've had a good look at this mod today. I can't see how it can fit as the index spline puts the lever 180 degrees out of poistion. Has any one got a picture of the 1.8 Turbo s elector mech as we know that that mod works?

I've taken off the dieselgeek mech and replaced with standard. My conclusion was the that the dieselgeek mech is much better , although a little crunchy. The standard mech is like moving a spool round a bowl of porridge, I need my left arm extending if that's staying on. If I can't get TT mod to work, I'm putting the dieselgeek mod back on.

A picture of the 1.8turbo mech would be very useful?
 
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