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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
my car as never been very good at starting when cold but over the last month it as got worse it is taking between 10-15 second of constant cranking before it fires up then it is fine until its left to go completely cold

maf is only 6month old oem

temp sensor last weekend oem seem worse since it been changed

glow plug 6 moths old

a friend says it could be the crank sensor but unsure, i have scanned it on a unregisterred vcds lite but it only every brings up a bs sensor faults or intermitent immobiliser fault, i admit im not the best with computer so maybe im doing it wrong i plug it in start up the car and scan engine and thats all the faults it bring up

any help on this is very much appreceateds, it really doing my nappa in now
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
the battery is only about 9 month old but i will charge it over night and see what its like in the morning, thanks for that info
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
charged battery overnight and it started much easier, the problem now is how to find what is draining it so slightly, i noticed that the negative terminal is tight but still moves on the battery terminal will this be the problem or is it more likely to be something else?

just tried again this afternoon and its back to not wanting to start, any ideas anyone?
 

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Mine does idle a bit rough, it sits at 903 rpm but jumps up and down between 870 and about 950 sometimes. It does judder between 1500 and 2200 rpm in 4th, 5th and 6th, I assume that's just because the revs are too low for the gear so I just change down to accelerate. Above 2200 rpm and in lower gears it is sweet.

I have ordered a new map sensor which was the only fault vagcom was showing, also ordered diesel purge to run through it.
 

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I get this sometimes when it is in the minus temps. Takes about 5 chugs before she goes over.

Cold be a battery problem as mine is a non OEM.

I also have a stick starter motor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
once it starts it idles very low for a couple of seconds then it runs and starts fine until it is left to go comletely cold
 

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Mmmm not 100% sure but the injector loom can make a hell of a difference, just not sure on all the symptoms of a bad one. Stuck a new one in a mates AJM and it ran really sweet after. Started better, idled better and the throttle response was loads better. Might be worth looking up the symptoms of a bad loom.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
read through that thread, at the risk of sounding thick is he saying fit a nonreturn valve to the return valve to stop fuel returning is that just basically blocking the return pipe
 

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[quote user="juleshs"]

read through that thread, at the risk of sounding thick is he saying fit a nonreturn valve to the return valve to stop fuel returning is that just basically blocking the return pipe

[/quote]

if you block the return the car will suffer fuel starvation, the check valve must be fitted in the direction of flow so that the return shuts off when the pump stops but allows fuel to return when the engine is running
 

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I don't know if a valve on the return line would really do anything anyway, I'm going to put one on the send line from the filter, maybe it might be a good idea to put another on the line going into the filter from the tank. I really should have tried these simple things before spending money on other stuff.
 

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if i clamp my feed line my car starts every time on the button , if i clamp the return line it makes no difference car hard starts . i put a N/R valve both sides of the filter on the feed and it makes no difference ????

so i have put a N/r valve on both lines before the filter and will find out later if that makes any difference.
 
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