[NooNoo]

Temporary repair of the N75 wires on the mk4. Been dodgy for ages.

Got a new connector and corrugated plastic sleeve coming. Already had the repair wire.

:Y:

 

[NooNoo]

MK4 PCV system.

Did an oil change the other week. Noticed oil weeps from sump and cam cover at the back. Normally I'd put this down to wear and tear but got concerned I was pressurising both compartments somehow. So this weekend I checked the PCV system.

Rather shocked to be honest. PCV was totally clogged. I mean totally blocked, silicone hoses solid with gunk.

I think I've understood the reasons: -

• Other half now commutes 4 miles into Leicester, previously 11 miles via dual carriageway.
• 2 years ago I moved the catch can higher in the engine bay.

So, the first point means the car is driven very slowly into Leicester no real crank pressure created, therefore gunk doesn't get pushed through pipes.

Previously the very low location of the catch can was using gravity assist and was full of gunk at emptying time. Recently just water and then nothing!

I've cleared the silicone hoses for now but contemplating the refit of inlet manifold assisted PCV due to the type of journeys the car is doing.

Bought a PCV kit and will utilise various bits for an enhanced custom set up.

Cheap kit (just want the T piece and valve).

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6x-Crankcase-Breather-Hose-Pipe-Set-For-Jetta-Golf-4-Bora-AUDI-A3-1-8T-AUQ-AUM/312418103847?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D56113%26meid%3D179e04ec5080414285500a94fe1f9390%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D15%26sd%3D323769800508%26itm%3D312418103847&_trksid=p2481888.c100675.m4236

The catch can will go back to it's original LOW chassis rail location.

For anyone having PCV deleted I recommend checking your hoses regularly and lowering your catch can. If your not catching GUNK it isn't working!

Current position is too high: -

This was a small fraction of the gunk in the hoses! You have been warned...

This is what I used to get in the catch can when it was low down (lower than crank breather outlet).

 

[richwig83]

We have a somewhat similar reg plates....... needs a photo shoot at some point

 

[NooNoo]

Parts for the mk4 N75 cable repair and better wing mirror convenience lighting for the ED30.

:Y:

 

[NooNoo]

Whoop whoop!

Ignition switch swapped out today. OEM for Meyle.

No steering DTCs now and... my radio works with the key all the way back!

Since day 1 of ownership the ignition had to be at stage 2 for the radio to work. There was actually nothing obviously wrong with the OEM part. I'm thinking there was a batch made badly by an external manufacturer. Many late 07 early 08 cars had their switches replaced under warranty.

Anyway here are some pics... steering wheel easy to remove, just the normal pesky plastic clips clinging on for dear life.

:Y:

 

[NooNoo]

Random car pic from yesterday.

 

[NooNoo]

I also fitted the ED30 LED wing mirror convenience lights as the 5W standard lamps are awful.

Took me 45 minutes to strip the drivers door mirror then about 10 minutes for the passenger.

This included cleaning the interiors.

Used a hairdryer to warm up the plastic clips, works a treat, didn't break any clips.

Pics later when it's dark.

Productive day!

:Y:

 

[NooNoo]

Wiper reminder for my benefit.

Mk4. A928s and A330H.
Mk5. A980s and A330H.

 

[Gti Fly]

Wiper reminder for my benefit.

Mk4. A928s and A330H.
Mk5. A980s and A330H.

You can actually carefully dismantle the wiper blade body and replace just the rubber wiper blade rather than forking out like 25 30 quid for a brand new pair of wiper blades.

The end caps ping off, and then on one end there's a small metal tab you lift up and this allows you to slide the entire rubber blade out of the wiper body . Slide in new rubber and refit.

I'm hitting some piaa silicone rubbers into mine I picked up on holiday in Japan soon

 

[NooNoo]

Paid £18 for mk4 fronts and £17 for the Ed30.
£7.50 each for the rears. Pretty reasonable given the lifespan. All genuine Bosch.

The only thing I would consider with blade only replacement is the pretentioning failing. The tension is critical for even pressure over the length of the blade. After 5 years?

 

[Gti Fly]

Paid £18 for mk4 fronts and £17 for the Ed30.
£7.50 each for the rears. Pretty reasonable given the lifespan. All genuine Bosch.

The only thing I would consider with blade only replacement is the pretentioning failing. The tension is critical for even pressure over the length of the blade. After 5 years?

I've not noticed any issues with mine , I've replaced the rubbers on them many times in the past ten years.

The body and metal strips are reused, you're just replacing the rubber

 

[NooNoo]

Clutch is failing on the mk4... clutch number 3 coming up at 163k miles.

 

[northpole]

You might want to get yourself an upgraded clutch that is a little stronger mate, i went through 3 clutches in 400k miles....

 

[NooNoo]

I think it's just town driving, it's not a motorway mile eater.
Thing is, it went first time around 87k, so it's really close in terms of mileage/failure which suggests just normal wear and tear (driving habits remaining constant).

So, think I'm gonna stick with the VR6 Luk or Sachs. No one likes the clutch right now with the SMF (I'm ok with it). So going for anything harder is not really an option.

 

[northpole]

go for Sachs they have been made so that if it fails it won't cause any damage to all the other moving parts... although the LUK is just build to not fail at all... so both choices are fine, IMHO people that moan about the SMF setup shouldn't be driving manual cars....

 

[NooNoo]

go for Sachs they have been made so that if it fails it won't cause any damage to all the other moving parts... although the LUK is just build to not fail at all... so both choices are fine, IMHO people that moan about the SMF setup shouldn't be driving manual cars....

Lol yeah, get the point about the SMF but the other half jumps into the ed30 quite a lot. The 'limo' as she describes it.

Back on point, got the Sachs kit for just over £100, been quoted £300 for fitting. Last time I paid £180 so thinking of DIYing. Problem is, it's just me and manipulation of the lump is painful. I've assisted other clutch fits and know the extra pair of hands makes a world of difference.
Quite like working on my own as people don't get to see the &#£@ ups but even so...

Any advice?
TIA.

 

[northpole]

Not really it's not that different from the mk4....

 

[NooNoo]

Well, after 10 years I've finally decided to sort the exhaust out. It's never been a good fit and the rear pre box hanger is significantly modified to accommodate the out of position tang.

It has been loosening at the joint before the rear beam every 6-9 months, irrespective of clamp count/tightness etc!

As the car is running so well, with all the fluids changed, cam belt done and clutch sorted I decided enough was enough.

I am going to delete the rear tips and go discrete with the R-line rear. I still have 2 lower plastic inserts and I refuse to cut another up to let the tips through. The current lower insert has now cracked around where the exhaust tip hole was cut, so it's almost throw away.

Just need to make sure I use a heat screen to stop the rear end melting.

Some smooth bottom pics will be here soon.

 

[adam-]

Just seen your remark about catch can height - I can vouch the truth about that! Mine used to condense oil when lower and then became a lot more solid higher up.

 

[NooNoo]

Lost tips gained smooth bum.