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I know.

Things like that are not heavy when you are messing with them on the bench but they suddenly become very heavy and un-wieldy when you are under the car.

The way I did it was more by accident than by design.

I was going to do it with the SF wobbling about on the jack head but found packing it up block by wooden block was far easier. I had the SF fully built up with the rack, ARB and wishbones on it as well. With the wooden blocks I think I got it within 10mm at which point the bolts went in and as they were tightened it drew it up into position and also allowed me to align the SF. I connected to the steering column joint and rack hose banjos afterwards.

The trouble is for people like us who do this sort of work once in a blue moon is that we are not tuned in to the man-traps of doing jobs like this. We learn the hard way most of the time. The beauty of internet forums though is that some of these dodges can be shared. Take this place for example, there is so much information on here if you can find it and just about every single thing that can be done, has been and is there to help anyone out.

Nut and bolt build threads like this are the best of the best, especially now the oldest MK4's eighteen years old ! Thankfully the MK4 is very well rust proofed and only suffer rust issues if they have been poorly accident repaired or really badly looked after. As was mine, this thread / build I view as a pre-restoration restoration and is tackling the bits that if left unchecked will causing MOT failures and be very difficult to rectify in another 5-10 years.

Yours, top work on a top car which happens to be a very old one!

[edit]

when I started driving, having a ten year old car was quite rare, most didn't last that long, today it is routine .
 

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NooNoo
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Think I learnt the hard way on this one despite looking at this...

http://uk-mkivs.net/topic/12590-tt-quickrack-subframe-install-pic-heavy/

I suddenly decided to split the job up which was a mistake. The bare minimum for bolting the sub frame up is rack and ARB.

Not rack on it's own!

Ah well, hubs, arms and struts tonight... something I've done many times.

:)

Edit: Waiting on N904 773 01 washers for the S3 lower brace (forgot them). When you nut the bar up the washer becomes an integral part of the 'rivetted nut captive' as VW say.
 

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NooNoo
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Quick update.

Hub, arm and strut all sorted on one side. Quite a bit of time was spent cleaning the Outer CVs and brake callipers.

Problems.

Topran hub flange was so tight on driveshaft splines, took at least an hour before I used by 30mm socket to whack it on a bit. Then used an old hub nut to pull it up (until I couldnt prevent driveshaft rotation). Hope this pulls up OK otherwise I'll be totally jocked off. It's still only on by a hub nuts depth.

Bilsteins want to seat ALL the way into the hub to align the tang. Not 4mm short (like the OEM strut as I could see old line). Spreader tool didn't open jaw enough and there were manufacturering burrs at the bottom of the hub jaw where the Bilsteins wanted to emerge.

Oh and my large torque wrench no longer clicks. Set up a medium initial setting and nothing. I was using this on a front wishbone bolt so it got properly tightened. Bolts that lie horizontal I torque up now as I can get a wrench in when on the ground.

Ah well. Slow progress it feels.

Going to be thwarted by spraying the brake shields and painting the callipers tonight I guess. Well prepared for the second hub.

:)
 

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NooNoo
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Small wire brushed within an inch of their lives.

:unsure:

Edit: The Topran splines are very "pointy" compared to my old flanges. I got an old hub and it pushed on OK.
 

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Strange.

Hold old are the outer CV joints?

Might be worth a punt buying a new (cheap about £20) outer CV from someone like J&R to see if it fits better.

There are quite often setbacks to work like this, most people gloss over them. It is good you are posting up the issues.
 

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NooNoo
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Yeah, not sure what to do. When the threaded end of the outer CV appeared enough to get the old nut on it didn't seem too bad pulling it up (until shaft rotation defeated me).

However, I've got to get this tight up at some point. Will have to use the brakes with the wheel bolts tacked in. Will need a glamorous assistant.

Just purchased a Halfords £80 1/2" torque wrench. Looked at Laser and Machine Mart stuff but Halfords have lifetime warranty.

The Clarke one I've been using was £25 ten years ago.

:Y:
 

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Can be tricky.

I've used Passat rear beam bolts to counter hold the hub which just happen to be the same thread as the wheel bolts and then used a long breaker bar which bears onto the ground to stop rotation and then another breaker to undo/do. The Golf rear beam bolts might be the same if you have some old ones.

Oh, I just happened to take a picture... :whistle:

Looks a bit mad but you get the idea, this is my way of undoing the inner driveshaft bolts without getting under the car but the same principal would apply for doing the hubnut up to draw the joint in. Final tightening obviously needs to be done with the wheels on the ground.

DSCF5242_zpsqkom14cb.jpg
 

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NooNoo
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Discussion Starter · #269 ·
Worried the thread on the driveshaft and/or nut is going to strip.

Obviously I have to take it steady and if I encounter firm resistance stop. Then I'm left with a hub flange partially fitted and stuck to my driveshaft.

The joys of DIY!

Thanks :)
 

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NooNoo
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Back to it tonight...
 

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NooNoo
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Discussion Starter · #272 ·
All good now. Pics imminent :)
 

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NooNoo
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OK here are a load of pics.

Rack heatshield 'C', different to standard one. They are not transferable.

IMG_20160413_184742.jpg


Old rack, 3 bolts hold the heatshield in place. 'B' heatshield not shown.

IMG_20160413_184755.jpg


Old rack neck does not have the same mounting points as the 2.5 turn rack.

IMG_20160413_184801.jpg


You can see the 'B' heatshield in the background, totally different and bigger.

:)
 

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NooNoo
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Subframe.

IMG_20160414_085200.jpg


IMG_20160414_085216.jpg


IMG_20160414_085257.jpg


Stopping rotation to pull the flange onto the driveshaft. A la @ct.p

Old subframe bolts came to the rescue.

IMG_20160415_190001.jpg


IMG_20160415_190057.jpg


Removal of old nut having bottomed out...

IMG_20160415_191037.jpg


IMG_20160415_191051.jpg


Done.

IMG_20160415_194108.jpg


IMG_20160415_212351.jpg


IMG_20160415_212331.jpg


IMG_20160415_212307.jpg


So all good now.

Thanks to @ct.p for the rotation lock suggestion.

I will point out those Topran flanges are either a very tight fit/spec or my driveshaft splines are worn!

Everything torqued as per spec with a few exceptions (to be done on the ground).

Splash shields still not painted.

:)
 
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NooNoo
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Discussion Starter · #275 ·
BTW I will be replacing the droplinks when I know how long they need to be.

Also I need 2 locking nuts for the M16 track rods. Not supplied with the new rack.

:Y:
 

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NooNoo
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Still have problems with the S3 lower brace transfer.

The new riveted captive nuts look right but the washers aren't right and the part numbers I've checked on ETKA and other people threads.

So I'm not sure what's going on.

Essentially the riveted captive nuts insert into the subframe and have a large washer around them. You then bolt up and the riveted nut expands into the subframe 'hole'.

When you tighten the bolts up, the washer "integrates" with the rivet it seems. If you have the right washers...

:unsure:
 

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This actually rings a bell, I think I just put the wheel on with a couple of bolts.

Even with the wheel off the deck there was enough leverage just holding onto the tyre then tightened the nut up with a breaker bar.

Great looking job you are doing. How are you setting the spring seat heights - have you measured your old jom's and set the billies higher?
 

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Still have problems with the S3 lower brace transfer.

The new riveted captive nuts look right but the washers aren't right and the part numbers I've checked on ETKA and other people threads.

So I'm not sure what's going on.

Essentially the riveted captive nuts insert into the subframe and have a large washer around them. You then bolt up and the riveted nut expands into the subframe 'hole'.

When you tighten the bolts up, the washer "integrates" with the rivet it seems. If you have the right washers...

:unsure:
Its been a while since I installed mine, but Isnt the order:

riv-nut then washer then brace and then the bolt pulls the riv nut tight around the sub frame sheet metal?
 

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NooNoo
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Discussion Starter · #279 ·
Will take some pics of the existing frame re the S3 brace.

B14 wise I have no idea what thread setting I need but going for sensible handling and height rather than a skateboard.

Anyone with any b14 setting info?

Cheers :)
 

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NooNoo
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Here's the problem with the S3 lower brace...

IMG_20160415_234549.jpg


Anyone got a part number for the washer that actually is the large washer?

I ETKAed it and got it off various forums/threads to confirm.

N904 773 01

Any ideas?

Thanks :)

Here's the brace that needs the foam stripping off and enameling...

IMG_20160415_234610.jpg
 
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