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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all

First post for me!

So I have a 2003 golf mk4 gt tdi 150pd ARL running just over 200k.
it’s been off the road for a few months but still started with no issues.
the battery died and I replaced it from a doner golf. Car started fine after changing.

Battery has about 12.3v so I think that’s ok.
Car lights, alarm all work ok.
Ignition on, all dash lights come on, immo light comes on and then goes off as expected.

I turn the key, nothing. No clicking/ticking just silence.

I’ve had vagcom connected, and all that comes back is 01274 air flow map positioning motor (v71) 37.00
I’ve checked the fuses and fuses on dash, and all ok.
I haven’t checked any relays yet, nor have I checked the earth connections under the battery.

I have however joined the 2 terminals for 20seconds as read on this forum to do the reset but still no change.

I did connect the neutral terminal to bolt on engine - which I used a multi meter to check continuity and that didn’t change anything in case a short.
Battery terminals are clean so guess they are ok.

Just wondering what the next recommendations are? I will plan to remove the battery and check earth underneath, and then maybe the relays and testing starter motor power?

I read one post about Ignition Cylinder Lock but not sure how that is done?

any advice appreciated.

thanks in advance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hi, managed to remove the battery and battery case. Exposed the starter motor (I think!) this is what I can see…(will upload shortly)

Do I unplug the circled live connection and measure current when turning ignition?
Automotive tire Hood Automotive fuel system Motor vehicle Vehicle
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hi guys sorry for delay, I just tested this and got 12v reading when the ignition was turned on from the cable feeding into the starter motor. I guess starter motor needs replacing then?
 

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Have you tried getting someone to hit the starter with a pole/hammer while you turn the key? Usually brings an old solenoid back to life for a brief moment to verify it's faulty. Commonly done to verify faulty fuel pumps and starters.
 

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Should only need to hit the solenoid itself (the smaller cylinder looking thing), but doesn't hurt to give both the solenoid and main body a couple hits too.

Only bits not to hit are the connections.
 
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