To cut a long story short, I had a MAF problem and at the same time wanted a tuning box for my car. Someone suggested the other day that a change to a 130PD Boost Control Valve and MAF may help as a base for more power when tuning.
Well.... (please note - tuning box remained fitted throughout this)
Changed the N75 before the faulty MAF and that seemed to smooth out the hesitation a little. Then changed the MAF, well TBH it felt flat after the change so I took the car back to where I stay and disconnected the battery for 1/2 hr.
(Strangely enough the MAF is almost identical with many of the same part numbers stamped in it - except one - and it's listed as a different part/price from the 115 version)
Re-connected and took it for a spin, good progressive power, very smooth and less of a surge at 1700-1800rpm than before so much easier to drive. Better breathing too as it didn't run out of steam at all, reved happily to the red line.
Just as a comparison I put the 115 N75 back on and did the same circuit - big surge of boost and then tailed off, seemed as fast but not as smooth so swopped back to the 130 N75.
Objectively: I don't know if this change would make a difference to a std car. From what I felt through the seat of pants test I think the original suggestion is spot on - I think these changes followed by a proper re-map would give more power than a std 115 with map. The parts come to just over ?100, so if you're spending ?500 on REVO it may be just the thing to get an extra 10-15bhp with a good RR and laptop 'driver'.
Part numbers are for the 130 PD - ASZ engine:
MAF - 071 906 461 AX (the X denotes exchange part)
Boost control Valve - 1J0 906 627 B
I hope this is useful if you're planning to tune your 115PD - I found it's improved the driveability and as I'm an old fa*t I enjoy it that way! Please, don't do it to a std car and expect immense grunt, it's a subtle change and best doen as part of a wider spread of mods.
Well.... (please note - tuning box remained fitted throughout this)
Changed the N75 before the faulty MAF and that seemed to smooth out the hesitation a little. Then changed the MAF, well TBH it felt flat after the change so I took the car back to where I stay and disconnected the battery for 1/2 hr.
(Strangely enough the MAF is almost identical with many of the same part numbers stamped in it - except one - and it's listed as a different part/price from the 115 version)
Re-connected and took it for a spin, good progressive power, very smooth and less of a surge at 1700-1800rpm than before so much easier to drive. Better breathing too as it didn't run out of steam at all, reved happily to the red line.
Just as a comparison I put the 115 N75 back on and did the same circuit - big surge of boost and then tailed off, seemed as fast but not as smooth so swopped back to the 130 N75.
Objectively: I don't know if this change would make a difference to a std car. From what I felt through the seat of pants test I think the original suggestion is spot on - I think these changes followed by a proper re-map would give more power than a std 115 with map. The parts come to just over ?100, so if you're spending ?500 on REVO it may be just the thing to get an extra 10-15bhp with a good RR and laptop 'driver'.
Part numbers are for the 130 PD - ASZ engine:
MAF - 071 906 461 AX (the X denotes exchange part)
Boost control Valve - 1J0 906 627 B
I hope this is useful if you're planning to tune your 115PD - I found it's improved the driveability and as I'm an old fa*t I enjoy it that way! Please, don't do it to a std car and expect immense grunt, it's a subtle change and best doen as part of a wider spread of mods.
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