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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I took a day off work today to do the 50k service for my car which is just an oil change, and I thought id write up a guide.

Note: leave the car running for 10 mins on idle before doing the oil change, this way the oil slips out better.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:eek:ffice:eek:ffice" /><o:p></o:p>

1. loosen wheel bolts, jack up the car, I used the scissors jack on the jacking point on the seal and a trolley jack along side it on the wishbone bolt just for extra safety. Remove the wheel bolts and then remove the wheel.<o:p></o:p>

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2. Using a T25 torx bit unscrew the 4 screws that hold the plastic sump guard in place, there are 2 either side, once these are removed pull and the guard will unslot.<o:p></o:p>

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3. Locate the oil filter this is in the middle at the front of the engine.<o:p></o:p>

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4. I had problems in getting enough play on the filter to loosen it with the wrench from under the car, I found that if I open the bonnet I can get a bite on it with the oil filter wrench. There isn?t much play at all so I had to just take my time, it took around 20 mins to get it off!!! If you are getting at it from the top of the car turn it anti clock wise. (PUT A BOLE UNDER WHERE THE FILTER IS YOU WILL GET QU<?xml:namespace prefix = st1 ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:eek:ffice:smarttags" /><st1:personName>IT</st1:personName>E A B<st1:personName>IT</st1:personName> OF OIL LEAKE FROM HERE).<o:p></o:p>

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Here the oil filter finally off in the bowl, mmm Marmite.<o:p></o:p>

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Just a quick pic where the new oil filter will fix on to.<o:p></o:p>

5. Remove dip stick and oil cap.<o:p></o:p>

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6. Remove the sump plug with a 19mm socket, put a bucket under ready for the oil to pour out.<o:p></o:p>

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/1003/mikecollinspb/mini-P1060056.jpg<o:p></o:p>

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And out it pours.<o:p></o:p>

7. Dip your dipstick in to the new oil from the bottle and lube the rubber gasket on the new oil filter.<o:p></o:p>

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/1003/mikecollinspb/mini-P1060058.jpg<o:p></o:p>

8. get under the car and screw the new oil filter in to its place (as shown in a pic above), try and keep the oil filter as parallel as you can when screwing it on careful not to cross the threads.<o:p></o:p>

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/1003/mikecollinspb/mini-P1060059.jpg<o:p></o:p>

New filter in place, I also tightened it a little from the top with the wrench as my hands where slippery so I could not tighten it that tight.<o:p></o:p>

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/1003/mikecollinspb/mini-P1060060.jpg<o:p></o:p>

New oil filter view from the top<o:p></o:p>

9. Screw the new sump plug in to the sump by hand, be careful again not to cross the threads, then tighten with the socket (19mm) and ratchet.<o:p></o:p>

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/1003/mikecollinspb/mini-P1060061.jpg<o:p></o:p>

10. Fill the engine up with the oil which is around 4.5 litres and check with the dipstick checking with the dipstick that the levels are correct.<o:p></o:p>

11. Put the dipstick and oil cap back in place.<o:p></o:p>

12. Put the wheel back in a lightly tighten the wheels in place with the bolts.<o:p></o:p>

13. Slot the sump guard tray back in place and tighten the 4 torx screws back in place again.<o:p></o:p>

14. Lower the car off the jacks, tighten the wheel bolts and stand back and think of the money you have just saved.<o:p></o:p>

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/1003/mikecollinspb/mini-P1060063.jpg<o:p></o:p>

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/1003/mikecollinspb/mini-P1060062.jpg<o:p></o:p>

Just a few random finished job pics.<o:p></o:p>

<o:p> </o:p>
 

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thats a really good guide mate..some really good pics aswell. i did mine last week.the only bit i hate is the cleaning up bit.oil always gets everywhere doesnt it.....
 

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Great guide ....

Just a side note, I find it easier to take the plastic trims off and put the filter in from above. Which ever is easiest.
 

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Another tip,

If the filter is located as shown (us TDI owners are very lucky in filter location) and you don't want to get oil all over your engine, punch a hole in the filter with a small screwdriver and drain the filter before you remove it. Save loads of mess.

If you do make mess though, spray the effected area with brake cleaner and it will wash it away.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
thats a really good guide mate..some really good pics aswell. i did mine last week.the only bit i hate is the cleaning up bit.oil always gets everywhere doesnt it.....
cheers [y] dont you find getting the oil filter off is the hardest part?
 

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yes lol.. its like me and my car have a challenge with each other (IM STANDING THERE SAYING "YES THE FILTER WILL COME OFF!!!!") LOL its the only reason i got to the gym and thats to get enough strenth to take it off by hand cus i still havnt got round to buying the filter wrench.

and yeh thats a good tip... "stab the filter with a screw driver to drain oil" ill remember that in another 5000 miles cus thats how i made the mess last time :)
 

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Good guide. A couple of things. If you slip a peice of material between the VW jack and the sill, you won't pull any paint off.

Also looking at the first pic you have a plastic bung missing from the front corner of the floor panel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Good guide. A couple of things. If you slip a peice of material between the VW jack and the sill, you won't pull any paint off.

Also looking at the first pic you have a plastic bung missing from the front corner of the floor panel.
will not having one of those cause any damage?! i didnt knowtis that
 

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Probably not, but it will let in water and grime into that part of the box section, which would niggle me personally.
 

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its also good practice to spin the engine over for a second and then check the dipstick again, and top up as nessasary
just to pump the oil round into the nooks and new filter then recheck level.
 

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One main part left out - please chaps, wear latex gloves when doing this work. I know it can be tricky, but used engine oil has been known to cause skin problems such as skin cancer etc. Put two pairs on, cos one will always rip.

Most garages will not allow mechanics to work on parts involving oil without gloves on. Health & Safety at Work etc.

They're only a few pence, and save washing ya hands and getting crap on the driver's seat and steering wheel too!!
 

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Great pictures, thanks for that myk3..However..NEVER EVER get under a car on jacks..ALWAYS, but always use axle stands. They are cheap and might save your life..Forget the silly alloy wheels, and gear knobs, safety first and then you can enjoy all that money you have spent.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Great pictures, thanks for that myk3..However..NEVER EVER get under a car on jacks..ALWAYS, but always use axle stands. They are cheap and might save your life..Forget the silly alloy wheels, and gear knobs, safety first and then you can enjoy all that money you have spent.
sorry i for got to say, i was using an axel stand mate [y] as well as a scisor jack and hydrolic jack. so i had allot of backup lol.
 

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Interesting guide and well documented, I never take the wheel off and I drain the sump before removing the filter but I guess that is down to personal preference.

The filter should actually be hand tight and not tightened with a spanner, also the stated sump plug torque for the 1.8T is 30Nm.

Has the Mrs found out that you used the washing up bowl to change your oil [:D]

Don't think I'd have my digital camera anywhere near an oil change.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Interesting guide and well documented, I never take the wheel off and I drain the sump before removing the filter but I guess that is down to personal preference.

The filter should actually be hand tight and not tightened with a spanner, also the stated sump plug torque for the 1.8T is 30Nm.

Has the Mrs found out that you used the washing up bowl to change your oil [:D]

Don't think I'd have my digital camera anywhere near an oil change.
i didnt use the spanner to tighten it mate. as my hands where slipping i used it slightly to make it equal to hand tight. i didnt tighten the sump plug that tight what so ever.
 

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The filter should actually be hand tight and not tightened with a spanner, also the stated sump plug torque for the 1.8T is 30Nm.
i didnt use the spanner to tighten it mate. as my hands where slipping i used it slightly to make it equal to hand tight. i didnt tighten the sump plug that tight what so ever.
Wasn't a critism mate [:)] Just pointing out, so that others don't over tighten thier filters with a spanner, also I included the torque for those of us that use them to ensure that it isn't overtightened.

So you didn't answer my question, did the Mrs find out what happened to her washing up bowl ? [;)]
 
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