Well i did write an entire guide like this one for removing the SAI and combi valve ect. But after doing it to my car and driving it for a week i stuck it all back on and never looked back!why not just blank the metal pipe to the old vac resivior and metal pipe to the dv then T off the FPR vac pipe??? much quicker? or failing that rip out the N249 & N112 all together and replace them with resistors. can also rip the SAI pump and combi valve too
just need to make a small blanking plate for the SAI/combi valve and a couple of 330 ohm 10W resistors
Good thread though
I just ran my boost gauge from after the one way valve to the vacume on the manifold. Works fine.good write up that well done
would it make any difference if you put the T peice after the one way valve and run that to the DV?
do you plug the N249 electrical wire again?Great guide mate.
Used this to do my bypass the weekend, only change i made was to tee into the pipe you show in this pic from the one way valve to inlet manifold
Only reason is i was always told by tuners to leave the FPR on its own dedicated vacuum line.
Also from the tee i used a small piece of 4mm vacuum line and still used one of the metal pipes to the DV to keep it looking as factory as possible.