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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've just picked the car up after having the Megan Racing turbo downpipe and decat fitted today.

I've choosen to use the standard OEM exhaust system and Milltek made me to order an adaptor that allows 2.5" to connect to 2.25"

I've had a quick spin and initial indications are good.

The turbo spool up is fantastic and the car is making a nice growl
under acceleration. Not too harsh or loud - just right I hope.

More miles will tell.

I will report back early next week on how it goes from here.

Need to reset the ECU so going to search the forum on easiest way to do that.

If anyone knows then please reply. I guess disconnecting the battery will work.

Thanks

Simon
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
ECU reset and ran around 35 miles tonight - thanks.

Car pulls much better now and the turbo spools up very quickly.

It's easy to spin the wheels in first. Exhaust noise at cruising is similar to standard and gets louder on WOT.

All in all a very good modification and well pleased apart from:

There is some vibration and knocking which hopefully will be easy to
recitify. Will take car back to garage on Monday to have that sorted
out. Probably the wider bore and contact under the car.

Cheers

Simon
 

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No mate.....got mine off good old Ebay......they go for around ?125-150 +?15 P&P [Y]

Only downside is at MOT time.......as it is a de-cat pipe......more than worth the hassle to swap it over though...

Nick [:D]
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Bought it from eBay as well, the build quality is very good.

There is a noticeable difference on low down pull and turbo spool up. The car feels quick.

This is a great mod. and using the standard exhaust means that noise levels are very low indeed.

Make sure that there is no knocking or vibrating as mine currentlly has this, hopefully will be sorted.

I'm looking forward to a dual with a Civic Type Ricer - should be very close now ;-)
 

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i`ve had one of these fitted for a while now. been really good, no check engine light cause my engine is agu and only has 1 oxy sensor before the cat "look a like" box. Build quality and fit was better than some of the bigger brand names that i`ve seen.

i got mine for 90 quid, then about 30 quid postage from them in america.

feels awesome but haven`t had a chanceto get a dyno with it on. was running 215-220 before so wat you reakon i`m puting out with this on now.

time for a k03s, fmic and get rid of my revo for a jabba chip!!!
 

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Hey Ollie,

seems quite a few people are running these D/P`s now, bonus no engine warning light for you...(mines going onto a AUM....so 2 sensors [N].....but the K03s makes up for that..[:D] )

I thought just by looking at the build quality it would prob fit better than others....thats good to know mate

not sure on the extra bhp you `ll be getting now.....think they reckon 10-15hp.....but they are also trying to sell as many as poss,so a good figure always helps....LOL.....

saying that the cat is no doubt the most restrictive part of the intake/exhust system......so binning that is gonna make some good hp......maybe 5-10hp at least.......have to let the dyno decide......have you got plans to get another run done now with the pipe? If so keep us informed of the outcome,be very interested to know.....

Anyone else know any REAL figures/gains???????

Nick
 

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Key in ignition, turn to one position less than "start", leave driver's door open for 5 minutes or so. Job Done !
That is a TBA not an ECU reset. Only ways to rest the ECU adaption is by disconnecting the battery for a reasonable time say 25 mins (but make sure you have your stereo code if applicable) or go into adaption channel 0 (or could be 1, anyway the first one) in the ECU and save 0 to it using diagnostics such as VAG-COM.
 

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you can tell when your battery is reset cause the automatic wind up on your windows does not work until the ecu has "learned" again. Also you`ll notice fluctuations in revs.

i reset mine by disconnecting the battery for about 15-20 mins (like you said jazz).

think i`m gonna save my money and go for the dyno run when i slap my k03s, cooler and jabba chip (instead of the very one track minded `revo non fbw` agu package.

can`t wait to see what the k03s will feel like. think i`ll notice? will i be close to civic type r`s yet?

ollie
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
My install is still vibrating like mad on acceleration or pulling away from standstill.

I've had the car up on ramps today and at no point is the downpipe touching anything.

I notice that where the downpipe comes down from the turbo it then bends over a thick bar underneath the car.

The gap between that bar and the downpipe is about 10mm and my hunch is
that when the engine is moving about on acceleration the downpipe is
hitting the thick bar.

I will wrap some cloth around it to see if that stops the noise and then get some heat resistant material.

Performance is great.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
OK the downpipe is knocking on the front cross member. The gap between the two is no more than 10mm.

I put some cloth between the two this morning and that got rid of the noise. Only problem is the cloth is not

heat reisistant. I've bought some bits from Halfords to make a "home
brew" solution which should provide heat protected padding between the
two.

Only other solutions are to crimp the downpipe, somehow reposition it from the turbo or have it heated up and bent.

Will fit the "home brew" on Friday and report back progress.

Interesting that others haven't had similar problems. There is only one way the pipe fits the turbo isn't there?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Cheers Dude,

Going to buy one of those from Forge and a gearbox mount. Hopefully that will help movement.

Have also ordered some exhaust wrap and alu cloth. "Home grown" solution didn't last too long - it must

of come dislodged.
 
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