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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello

I bought a 2002 1.9 gold diesel about a week ago and just recently discovered that the boot lock is not working. I've figured out it has two issues:

• the manual lock has seized and no amount of wd40 is getting it free
• the central locking has also stopped

After tearing my hair out for a couple of nights i've discovered that it's not the usual washer pipe leak/motor gone/microswitch issue but is actually the wire's accross the tailgate have become completely severed.

So.. I've managed to get the motor on the central locking going through some quick repairs to the wiring but have just one issue now and that is that the lever arm for the solenoid to the locking mechanism popped out when I was overiding the lock from the inside of the boot and I just cannot seem to work out how to put it back on properly.

If anyone could direct me to a diagram or some kind of instruction so I can see the way the arm it is supposed to go on I'd be really grateful, even a photo of how it is supposed to look once it's assembled would be really appreciated!

Thanks all, I think this may be the first of many niggles I will be trying to put straight so maybe see you around.

B
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hey thanks Mmalkie, I was just posting an update as you wrote this, that second link I had found and did help me get to the root of the problem!....

I managed to fix the lever back in!

The black part of the catch mechanism where the barrell meets the spring had popped out a bit off its thread which was preventing me from being able to turn it as far counterclockwise as it needed to be to fit the arm back on.

I spent a few hours out in the cold soldering the wires back together that had frayed inside the righthand tailgate gromit and now the arm's fixed it's all up and working again. So I don't have to take my new wheels to the garage just yet and I fixed it all using things I found in my dad's garage!

*So* good to have a central locking boot again!

Here are the links to diagrams and pictures I found that helped me incase anyone lands here with a similar problem.



http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5488885-Boot-tailgate-not-opening-with-the-central-locking...&p=74412959

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=281443

So just a quick recap of the things I found out :

If your boot isn't central locking :

1. You should be able to overide the C/L by using the key in the lock however as most people will never bother to use their key, 10 years of filth, rain and sludge will have probably seized the thing up. Try a whole can of WD40.
2. Take the panel off the inside of the boot, it just needs the two phillips screws removing from the handles and a good but careful yank. If you are met with a corroded sticky mess, you are probably dealing with a leaking washer pipe which will have either blown your microswitch or killed the solenoid.
3. Pull out the wiring plug clip from the solenoid by gently squeezing the clipping, try testing this with an electrical tester to see if there is any power coming into the device, if there isn't it may be worth having a look inside the rubber gromits where the wiring from the boot goes into the main body of the car.
4. If like me this is the case, try the electrical tester again and you'll probably find there is power coming to these wires in the tailgate gromit. Fix the wires back together with new wire, connector plugs/crimps/soldering.
5. If the rest of your C/L is working then you can discount the fuse box as the fuse that powers the C/L seems to also do the windows and a bunch of other stuff so it would all be dead.

Hope this can help someone.

**N0obs! (like me!) Here are the guides I looked at on this website http://uk-mkivs.net/forums/t/253514.aspx
 

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A SMALL note to remind EVERYONE...

WD-40 is a PENETRATING FLUID, that is designed to BREAK DOWN GREASE !

If you DO use it in the key openings / locking mechanisms of your car, it WILL displace the grease, allowing moisture / water in, to RUST / CORRODE things up....

YOU have been warned.

Remember, SILICONE GREASE in spray can form, will help replace the grease & keep things from rusting corroding....
 

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[quote user="Mmalkie"]

A SMALL note to remind EVERYONE...

WD-40 is a PENETRATING FLUID, that is designed to BREAK DOWN GREASE !

If you DO use it in the key openings / locking mechanisms of your car, it WILL displace the grease, allowing moisture / water in, to RUST / CORRODE things up....

YOU have been warned.

Remember, SILICONE GREASE in spray can form, will help replace the grease & keep things from rusting corroding....

[/quote]

This ^^^^^ is a VERY good point and one that seems to be missed by a lot of people just because they're too damned lazy to read the instructions,you know RTFM and all that
? WD40 is as above and really should only be used in emergencies or to free the offending item off first before the proper lubricant is used on it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the info will bear this in mind in the future, though not being able to lock the boot in the centre of leeds after a shopping trip is DEFINITELY an emergency :D Maybe some guy 5 years ago tried to unseize the lock prior to my ownership and hence it won't even budge now! Now I've got my c/l back I'm not so worried - the other bits of advice I picked up about getting the lock to work involved torx screws and bashing with a mallet and I didn't fancy that. Will grease the thing up over the next few days though, just incase anything can be done with it in the future.

I had a good read about WD40 online to get myself up to scratch, someone termed WD40 as a 'homeopathic lubricant' which amused me..

B
 
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