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MAF sensor fix

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S

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722 Posts
#8 ·
I found the following on the web -

Dielectric vs. Conductive Grease to Protect Connectors and Grounds. [Query:] You have repeatedly recommended the application of dielectric grease to underhood wire connections. Isn't the insulating property of such grease counter to the goal of IMPROVING the integrity of electrical connections? I would think that a conductive paste (such as Eastwood's Kopr-Shield) would be better. The only potential downside I can think of is that sloppy application could cause short circuits, but care and common sense should preclude this. [Response:] This is a good question and one that I have received several times. Yes, it is true that the dielectric grease is non-conductive. However, in the context of connections that carry voltages larger than 1 volt, the grease will not result in a bad connection. The male and female connectors will wipe enough of the grease off at the mating surface so that the electricity will flow just fine. The important part is that there is no chance of the grease creating a conductive path between adjacent terminals in a multi-terminal connector. The main purpose of the grease is to seal the terminals against oxidation which creates a high resistance barrier and moisture and dirt which can result in shorts and ground paths. CAUTION: DO NOT do this to any SRS/Airbag/Seatbelt connectors: these are all gold-plated and do not oxidize. If they get dirty from spilled drinks, etc., just clean them with a no-residue cleaner.

It is important to note that on all Volvos, the Oxygen sensor signal lead carries a very low voltage (0.2v - 0.8v) and the dielectric grease must NOT be used on this lead as it will interfere with the signal voltage.

For the GROUND connections - especially those in the engine compartment where the ground leads are fastened to aluminum surfaces like the intake manifold, I recommend using one of the conductive greases like OxGuard. These are found at electrical supply houses and are typically used by electricians to treat the end of aluminum electrical cables to prevent the very high resistance aluminum oxide from forming at connections - this was a common cause of house fires. The same high resistance oxide plays havoc with engine management system signal voltages. You can eliminate the problem by cleaning the aluminum surfaces and treating with the conductive grease. Also note that many of the spade type crimp on terminals that are available are made of aluminum. It is very difficult to find copper ones. [Note: see also the note on greasing connectors under Engine Tune, Performance.] DON'T use OxGuard on engine or chassis electrical connectors or sensors.

http://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/EnginePerformanceSymptoms.html

Might be of interest.
 
davemk

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#9 ·
so let me get this right before I even start to think about this! You put the "electricalinsulationpaste" into the MAF connector?? What's your thoughts on cleaning the connector first with electrical contact cleaner? I cleaned the MAF a few months ago and it made a difference but seems to be back to as it was before despite another cleaning session
 
S

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387 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Quote: posted by davemk on 29/03/2005 17:54:52

so let me get this right before I even start to think about this! You put the "electricalinsulationpaste" into the MAF connector?? What's your thoughts on cleaning the connector first with electrical contact cleaner? I cleaned the MAF a few months ago and it made a difference but seems to be back to as it was before despite another cleaning session

Yes this seems to be what the article suggests. The paste stops oxidisation and vibration induced variations in the signal from the MAF. Seems quite cheap to try and lots of people on that forum are saying it works well. Anyone tried it yet?

Sarge
 
B

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1,577 Posts
#11 ·
brilliant find, i'll be doing this asap as i'm sensing a flat spot on my 40k v5 at around 3000-4000rpm. the amount of people who found it worked encourages me no end.

vw should really surf these forums. thanks sarge [:)]
 
R

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637 Posts
#18 ·
Its funny, but I actually unpluged the MAF from the airbox as I needed to get in to the wiring conduit that runs underneath, and today I have been getting 56-60MPG when normally only 50MPG. Might only be coincidence, but just unplugging it, blowing in the plug and socket, and back on might have helped something.

After reading this, I might get a bit of that grease.
 
L

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128 Posts
#19 ·
Hi guys

Think i'm going mad!, have spent all afternoon reading about this stuff to squirt on the maf but being new to all this (and havent had my golf long really) i need a set of idiots instructions [:eek:)]

how far i've got... I bought some electrical contact cleaner the other day, disconected the hose coming off what i assume is the air box (sorry bear with me!)

i can see the sensor inside the tube but am unable to disconnect the section it is in because of the cruddy torx screws that i dont have a screwbit for (gave up trying to find one now...)

my questions are

can i just spray the sensor through the tube and also is it the sensor you are applying the silicone stuff to? if not where are you putting it????, do i have to get the torx screws undone first with a special spline bit? heard something about an o ring but havent seen anything like it?

Sorry people, been desperately trying to get this sorted for a while due to a flat spot and dont want to give in and take it to the stealers... [:(!] PLEASE HELP [:D]

Cheers
 
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liquidshokk
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