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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
does anybody know if this is possible wiv 8x18" 5X120 et40 original m3 wheels?

if so wat will i need for adapters etc?

if not mybe wiv replicas? howeva fink they're same fitment.

any suggestions? n plus wat is the general concensus on replicas?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Tainboi,

I sincerely hope your not referring to my spelling? Not everyone thinks
it is that important to use correct spelling and grammar when posting
on an open, public and informal forum.If you have nothing better to do
then make stupid comments which don't actually have anything to do with
the topic then don't bother posting a reply.

Any useful advice or suggestions are greatly appreciated.
 

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There was a picture floating about a while back of a black R32 with M3 rims on, although I think they were the 19" version. Went straight on with hub adapters anyway and looked the bizz [Y]

EDIT - Here it is (found it lurking on my hard disk lol)
I have seen them on 'tinternet a couple of times on a MK4 and they do look very nice on a Golf.

EDIT.

Remeber to check BMW hub centre diameter, as you will want to get hubcentric adapters. I think it is 72.5mm, but double check !!
 

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Dont forget though if you are going to use a genuine bmw set that you need 4 fronts as they use a staggered set up on the M3, was going to buy a set of a guy on TSN but found out at the last min i needed 4 fronts !

Cheers
Matt
 

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Dont forget though if you are going to use a genuine bmw set that you need 4 fronts as they use a staggered set up on the M3, was going to buy a set of a guy on TSN but found out at the last min i needed 4 fronts !

Cheers
Matt
Also, once these rims are fitted you should abandon the use of indicators, and drive permanently in the

fast lane, no matter how quiet the road is...
 

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Dont forget though if you are going to use a genuine bmw set that you need 4 fronts as they use a staggered set up on the M3, was going to buy a set of a guy on TSN but found out at the last min i needed 4 fronts !

Cheers
Matt
Also, once these rims are fitted you should abandon the use of indicators, and drive permanently in the

fast lane, no matter how quiet the road is...
LOL. And dont forget the foglights in broad daylight !! and to tailgate absolutely everyone !!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
LMAO with the M3 driver's comments. Yeah I just started picturing those
wheels on my black mk4 golf and I thought, hang on.....wouldn't they
look good? Great to see that everyone seems to agree with that. Yeah I
found out about the fact the rear wheels are different....although I
don't really know what is meant by staggered [:$]

I?m really a newbie when it comes to anything really technical in cars.
My knowledge is limited but broad. Anyway, I?m a bit confused with the
adapter things? Are they basically spacers with corresponding hole +
bolt patterns for the car hub and wheels you want to put on? We?re
5x100 bolt pattern right? The m3 wheels are 5x120 or something? What
about the offset side of things?

I was thinking of getting them in 18's. Any more advice on the pcd( im
baffed about that too :p) offset and adapters etc would be
greatly appreciated.

Cheers

B
 

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LMAO with the M3 driver's comments. Yeah I just started picturing those
wheels on my black mk4 golf and I thought, hang on.....wouldn't they
look good? Great to see that everyone seems to agree with that. Yeah I
found out about the fact the rear wheels are different....although I
don't really know what is meant by staggered [:$]
staggered just means the rears are wider and for example if the fronts are 8" the rears may be 10"
 

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LMAO with the M3 driver's comments. Yeah I just started picturing those wheels on my black mk4 golf and I thought, hang on.....wouldn't they look good? Great to see that everyone seems to agree with that. Yeah I found out about the fact the rear wheels are different....although I don't really know what is meant by staggered [:$]

I?m really a newbie when it comes to anything really technical in cars. My knowledge is limited but broad. Anyway, I?m a bit confused with the adapter things? Are they basically spacers with corresponding hole + bolt patterns for the car hub and wheels you want to put on? We?re 5x100 bolt pattern right? The m3 wheels are 5x120 or something? What about the offset side of things?

I was thinking of getting them in 18's. Any more advice on the pcd( im baffed about that too :p) offset and adapters etc would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers
B
Yes your right about the PCD being 5x100 on the Golf, whereas, it is 5x120 on the BM, hence the adapters, which as you said are simply adapter/ spacers. You will get 10 holes on the adapters, obviously, 5x100 for bolting to your car, then 5x120 for bolting your wheels to the adapters. They also need to be hubcentric, so the wheel sits perfectly central, otherwise you will get vibration problems. Like I said before, check what the BMW centre hub diameter is (72.5mm) I think. Your Golf will be 57.1mm.

Then consider what you can afford and buy the very best ones you can, I speak from experience, believe me !!

Next, the offset will be seriously reduced by the spacers, pushing the rims out to the arches, which is not a bad look, but will put extra stress on all suspension parts !! As a rule (but depends on wheel width), I have found that you can get away with an offset of 15mm MAX on the rear and 20mm MAX on the front on the MK4, I stand to be corrected on that !!

To realise what your offset will finally be, subtract the width of the spacer from the offset stated for the wheel in question.

Hope this is clearer !!
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
i looked at the spacer adapters
on tunershop.co.uk, but am a little unsure whether the stated PCD is of
the car your fitting to or the wheel your fitting on?

For example, as i understand it, would this be correct?

REAR:

5 whole adaption wheel spacers
for p.c.d. 100/5-57,1 - system 3 -15mm - 5 to 5 whole - 100/5-57,1
(thread: M14x1,5/S) to 120/5-72,5 (thread: M12x1,5)

FRONT:

5 whole adaption wheel spacers
for p.c.d. 100/5-57,1 - system 4 -20mm - 5 to 5 whole - 100/5-57,1
(thread: M14x1,5/S) to 120/5-72,5 (thread: M12x1,5)

im looking to get 18x8 wheels.

because the spacer is wider at the front, does that technically mean my
front wheels will stick out further then the back? or are the rears
naturally further out and so now they will be parallel?

im really most bothered about the handling of my car. so i am thinking of getting coilovers aswell.

however, if these wheels and spacers etc are going to affect handling then theres no point.

basically my main aim is to improve handling, have quality light-strong
wheels that aren't common on mkiv golfs and look good. not alot to ask
is it[:p]!! also a i do want atleast a slight dish affect on the wheels.like the m3 wheels.
 

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Hello again mate. The Tunershop website is a liitle over technical for my liking.

Looking at what you have there look ok, by the PCD sizes, but you have two different types of adapters (system 3, system 4) also I would go for the wider ones at the rear, rather than the front.

What are the offset of the wheels your looking at ?? This is critical !!

I am running 45mm offset wheels. PCD 5x112, with 25mm rear adapters, 20mm front. I do not have any problems with this setup.

E mail Ingo Knarr (name !) at Tunershop with all your details and he is very helpful. [email protected]

On your second point, if you are going for the original M3 alloys, I can only imagine them to be the very best quality in terms of wieght/strength, You will of course have extra wight of the spacers, but they are very lightwieght.
 

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because the spacer is wider at the front, does that technically mean my front wheels will stick out further then the back?
They do anyway. If you "pad out" the rears with spacers to fill the arches, which many people do for cosmetic reasons, you'll promote further understeer. M Sport Beemers are staggered with a rear bias because they are powerful rear wheel drive cars and the weight transfer towards the rear upon acceleration increases downforce and grip. So more rubber at the back gives even more road contact and traction. If you replicate the M3 set-up on your Golf it'll understeer like crazy.

or are the rears naturally further out and so now they will be parallel?
It's rarely parallel on any car unless that's what happens to give the chassis balance the designers intended.

however, if these wheels and spacers etc are going to affect handling then theres no point.
All of these things will affect it, but you can use their characteristics to your advantage if you know what you're after. Spacers and/or excessively wide rims on the front will give you lots of torque-steer, so the steering can violently "fight back" when you floor it or go over uneven surfaces and generally have over-snappy turn-in. I personally wouldn't mess about with spacers at all on my own car, no matter how good the quality. I'd prefer to get a wheel with the correct offset in the first place. Two separate pieces of metal can never be as strong as one no matter how tight you bolt them together.

basically my main aim is to improve handling, have quality light-strong wheels that aren't common on mkiv golfs and look good. not alot to ask is it[:p]!! also a i do want atleast a slight dish affect on the wheels.like the m3 wheels.
If money was no object, and I know it is for most mortals, I'd recommend BBS RG-Rs. Dished, super-strong, super-light (8.2 Kg in 7.5Jx17 5x100!) and not common at all. Something to aspire to, perhaps?

Posted Image


Unless you must have the height adjustability of coilovers, I'd save yourself some money by getting a decent 30mm fixed height lowering spring kit with matched shocks, decent alloys of course but not too wide or too large in diameter (metal weighs more than rubber - too much of it increases the front wheels' gyroscopic effect, affecting steering, dampens acceleration, and generally works the suspension harder and potentially makes you lose grip because of more unsprung weight, hence at larger wheel sizes the manufacturing technology of the wheel and its weight matter more and more). Get an Audi S3 lower strut brace until you're feeling brave enough to fit the upper brace (which requires drilling holes in the front strut towers), the lower brace is only ?20 including bolts and is an OEM part, no drilling required as the holes are already in the sub-frame. You can use a rear anti-roll bar to stiffen the tail end and tune the balance back to neutral, but I wouldn't do this until you are very familiar with the car's original handling. It's set up to understeer to cater for the average driver. I think the biggest difference you'll make is by changing the suspension, closely followed by the wheels.
 
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