Lumpy cold idle after remap

Doubtful its the dmf, it can be fuel quality, when was the filter last changed? Try some injector cleaner in the next tank of fuel too, and try a premium fuel like shell/bp rather than supermarket. This is the most likely cause, after that there is;

Fuel Pump could be getting older/worn, try turning key on and off a few times hearing the pump prime each time, then start the car and see if its any better.

Coolant temperature sensor could be on its way out

Or injector seals could be a little worn, but then you would expect car to be a lot smokier.

Or a glowplug thats not as effective, meaning that this cylinder has to 'catch up' with the rest if you get what I mean, so its almost like running on 3 cylinders for first few seconds.

All that being said my old pd130 could sometimes be a little rough at idle for first few seconds, was never anything 'wrong' with it

Definately clutch/DMF related, the `shudder` (feels like a miss) goes off when clutch is down.

Belts done

Shell v-power

new filters

thermostat and sensor changed

BG 244

dervdave said:

Definately clutch/DMF related, the `shudder` (feels like a miss) goes off when clutch is down.

Belts done

Shell v-power

new filters

thermostat and sensor changed

BG 244

Click to expand...

It might go off when the clutch is down as slightly less load on the engine.

Ah right, you didn't mention that, in that case yeah it does sound dmf related, although I wouldn't describe that as a lumpy idle. I was thinking you meant when they miss a bit from cold, which some PDs do.

Funny thing is the `shudder` isn`t there immediately from cold it comes on after stopping in traffic after a few hundred yards and isn`t there when idling a mile later,

Never noticed it doing this before the remap

Who mapped the car? If its a generic file I wonder if it doesn't have the software fix that vw released as an update later in the mk4s life. The early cars used to suffer like that. Would explain why the map changed things. Either that or the software used isn't great?

mattp1983 said:

Who mapped the car? If its a generic file I wonder if it doesn't have the software fix that vw released as an update later in the mk4s life. The early cars used to suffer like that. Would explain why the map changed things. Either that or the software used isn't great?

Click to expand...

The thing is its a steady idle but feels like the motors rocking which goes off on dipping the clutch.

Its a BigFish remap and John has already told me they don`t touch the cold idle maps.

It could well be the dmf then by the sounds of it, you could check the dogbone engine mount underneath, make sure its not making engine rock.

How many miles on the car?

110k

Probably about time, person who bought my bora changed the dmf around 120k I believe.

think its drfinately prudent to rule everything else out first but it is looking that it is the dmf. it is a fairly pricey job inc labour, those 6 speed boxes are too heavy for man handling on a drive, its so tight for access with the diff and subframe.

Try and go for sachs dmf and clutch.

mattp1983 said:

Probably about time, person who bought my bora changed the dmf around 120k I believe.

think its drfinately prudent to rule everything else out first but it is looking that it is the dmf. it is a fairly pricey job inc labour, those 6 speed boxes are too heavy for man handling on a drive, its so tight for access with the diff and subframe.

Try and go for sachs dmf and clutch.

Click to expand...

Without a doubt I`ll check more before going any further but the Sach kit is the one I`ll would go for.... think the std kit will handle the extra power ok?

Well I had the sachs SRE organic in mine for 90k (car was mapped at around 25k) but the guy that bought it put a std clutch in and has done I believe another 25k plus on that.

I run a std 5 speed sachs clutch on my 20vt with 280ft/lb torque fine so should imagine you will be alright if its a good smooth map.

Actually, the other side is that if its not slipping now, with a clutch that has 110k on it, a brand fire new one will certainly be fine.

Cheers Matt, yeah its a very smooth progressive map that really powers up from 2k.

Starting from cold this morning and letting it idle there was no noise at first, 1 min later a slight click and the rattle started. another 60/90 seconds and its gone and stays that way, peculiar eh ?

Yeah that is strange, other thing of course could be bearings in the concentric slave cylinder are dry and making noise?

Obv thats a box off job, my old car did it intermittant for about 80k, made a horrible rattle with clutch up when engine was fairly cold, went away when warm.

Is it making a knocking noise under high load/low rpm situations like accelerating from 5th/6th from 40mph using full throttle for instance?

I'd perhaps just drive it a while, perhaps gingerly in those situations above and see what happens, flywheels tend to give a reasonable amount of notice before failure, there would be a lot of knocking or difficulty selecting gears etc?

Thanks mate, I will leave things and see if/when it deteriorates further but drive sympathetically till then

Just bought a new unsed Sach kit off ebay for £275, it`ll not come in wrong

Thats a bargain with the dmf, bank on between £100-200 labour depending where you live, who you know or use etc.

mattp1983 said:

Thats a bargain with the dmf, bank on between £100-200 labour depending where you live, who you know or use etc.

Click to expand...

Youngest sons mate will probably do it for 1 or 1.5, if it does need doing