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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My lighter is not working in my car I thought the lighter is gone went to VW & bought new one but that does not work either seems like the where the lighter goes that plug thing is gone.

Does anyone know how can I chage for a new one, HOw can I open the it & take it out , Do I have to open the whole centre console??????
 

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You dont need to open the whole center console no, just remove the ash-tray and under there is one

torx screw. Remove this then the whole assembly (lid etc) comes out.

I assume you've checked the fuse?

Chris
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I took the screw out from the ashtray but still it's not coming out for some reason any tips my friends, QUICK
 

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Hey im havin the same problem, it doesnt quite stick down when you press it, and to get ithot you have to hold it down, havnt actually managed to light anthing with it either, its fooked.
 

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Hi mate.....don`t have the answer to your prob....but just wondering how much the replacement lighter cost u from the dealer???...(my car has always been missing one [:(]...cheeers...

Nick
 

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Shall I take it that no one has got the answer this time ............................
As I said before theres one torx screw under the removable part of the ashtray, just try again and after you

have removed the screw close the lid and try harder!!

Really not difficult my friend...
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Ive tried Hard enough matey but no luck at all any other Ideas or any Write up on it or pics please.
 

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Unscrew the torx screw with a T-20 bit.  Half close the lid and push the ashtray towards the centre console by about 3 -5 cm.  This will unclip the ash tray from the supporting bar underneath and you'll be able to lift it out.
 

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Hi - I'm really stuck with trying to fit a new front cigarette lighter socket housing part.

I'm pretty sure its broken and I need it working to power my old compaq pda sat-nav which doesn't hold its own battery charge that well.

It's not the fuse... I tried replacing the correct fuse two times and each time it popped and fizzled so I'm hoping a new socket thing will fix it.

Following Haynes manual I've got access to the lighter socket housing, but have gotten stuck when it comes to releasing the old socket out of that reddish/orange ring (think its called a bulb).

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I'm not sure how to release the old socket housing out of the reddish holder. VW didn't have any of the reddish holders in stock so I couldn't get a spare today in case I break this one.

The old housing is stuck in the reddish part quite securely, and I'm not sure if it pushes upwards and out, or or downwards and out. Either way its not showing any flexibility to move.

Any ideas please ?
 

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Was still stuck with this.... found a cable retainer which unclips allowing the entire removal of the tray unit.

Found some extra clips to remove but still couldn't remove the socket from the really strong grip of the red plastic gripper.

Then my Mum told me she'd just been told about a VW/Audi Specialist garage a few minutes drive away, which was news to me. I'd never heard of it.

Called in without appointment today and the owner or manager was at reception and was really decent to check it out and then sent it in to a mechanic in the shop proper almost immediately.

I didn't see the mechanic as he did it but he said something about squeezing the red plastic to release it and then manoeuvre the red gripper off. Said it was the first he'd done and was a bit of a puzzle... but still fast as he brought it to me within 3 minutes of it going in to the shop. Still can't work out how he did it. Maybe some models have more complicated versions of lighter housing than others.

And proper fair too as they said they didn't want anything for their help on such a small job.

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Just got to fit the extra clips and fit it back in.

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Updated: General how-to notes for replacing power socket/cigarette unit VW Golf

(as recently done on my VW Golf 1.4S model)

(follow at your own risk):

1) Haynes manual advises to first disconnect battery negative lead. However they also point out that this has consquences for other systems which require to have a constant flow of power. If disconnecting battery lead, advisable to keep car key on you to avoid being locked out if central locking engages when battery is reconnected. Other stuff which requires constant power flow will have to be reset after battery is reconnected. Some radio/cd units will/may require their security code to be re-entered. Engine Management System (ECU) loses it's "learned" settings, resets to factory defaults, and has to be relearned (not covering that here). Safety function of electric windows will require reprogram after battery is reconnected to avoid potentially dangerous pinching injuries (not covering the windows reprogram here).

2) I didn't disconnect battery negative lead during the proceedure. I knew my fuse for the lighter was already broken (blue 15 amp) and took the chance the break would stop any current coming to the cigarette lighter socket, and risked that the fix wouldn't impact on other systems. If the fuse hadn't been broken then I would have removed the fuse. The fuse box area in my Golf was found in the side part of dash unit.. right of the steering wheel.. and follow dash around to the side part, directly opposite/facing driver's door. Use a flat-head screwdriver to open fuse compartment door. The fuse compartment door can be lifted off it's hinges and there should be an inlay diagram of fuse positions to function stuck in the inner compartment door. It can be slightly confusing to read and identify the correct fuse, depending on how you look at the card. For me, fuse slot 41 was in the furthest left bank, four slots up from bottom, when directly looked at from the driver's side (crouching outside with the car door open and looking directly at fuse compartment)

Fusecard diagram sourced from Imagewerx's attachment in this thread:

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3) (Items 3 and 4 might be unnecessary on some models which allow the lifting/removal of the tray unit by just releasing the tray's single torx screw). With a thin but wide(ish) flat-headed screwdriver, carefully get some leverage on the plastic housing which is just beneath the gearstick covering material. Try to work slowly around the sides to pry out the clips. For me the clips at the top end and the bottom end of the housing were wider and slightly more substantial than the retaining clips on the side of the housing. Work the housing free and the material when done the gearstick covering material will also come out as it is the plastic housing which traps and seals it down.

4) Slacken off the two front torx console securing screws. Then remove each and store safely. One is found in front driver's footwell to the left of the clutch in the console. The other is in corresponding position in the passenger's footwell side. Mine were a torx size 20 bit fit.

5) If closed, slide open the ash tray cover to reveal inside. There is probably a hard treated plastic interior... this slips out by hand to reveal the unit proper and another torx screw (bit size 20 again) in the center of the tray. Remove the ashtray's torx screw and store safely. Then try to get some purchase/leverage from the front side of the ashtray unit to lift it up. For me it proved not possible to free/lift out the tray directly at the ash tray unit. Therefore I put my hand under the opening revealed when removing the gearstick housing, allowing room to push from underneath of ash try unit, and wiggle it up and free.

6) With the ash tray unit free of it's normal resting position, it will still be connected by two more cables. One of them being the power cable in to the bottom part of the cigarette/power supply socket. This simply unplugs/slides free by hand from the white plastic of the cigarette/power socket. Another cable is just a retaining cable. It is fixed to the tray unit on a plasticy white rivet. Gently pry out the rivet from the ashtray unit. Then you should be able to fully lift out and remove the entire ash tray unit... even take it indoors if desired, because you now deserve a hot cup of tea or coffee.

7) There will probably be two additonal clips on the old socket.. on the silver metal section. Mine were both black in colour. Taking note of it's position, try gently sliding the first clip out of its grooves. For me it would not remove this way so I gently used a small flat headed screwdriver to pry up one of the clip's grips from a groove. Apply gentleness because it seems the clips which go in to the groove are quite thin plastic and could be deformed easily with excess force. I think the first clip out is just a pressure clip.. to apply pressure to the second clip. The second clip has two metal (copper conductors ?) prongs which rest on the socket itself. This should be quite simple to remove from the grooves of the socket.. but again gently use a flat bladed screwdriver if can't remove by hand. Store both clips safely.

8) (I have to admit lack of knowledge for this step). The socket is still attached to the ash tray unit... gripped inside it's red plastic housing. On some models it may be freed up easily.. but not on the car I worked on. I'm not certain on the proceedure of how to release it. It's clear it doesn't just slide up and out because there are red plastic anchors which prevent it being lifted upwards.. and equally it would not slide downwards because of the red plastic ring and the ring cusp of the metal socket unit itself. Mechanic told me the red plastic needed to be squeezed in a certain way to release it out of the tray unit. When both the red plastic unit and socket are free of the tray unit... the red plastic ring is still attached to the socket but free and rotates. It will slip off the bottom of the old socket when rotated to a certain position. Insert the new socket back in to the plastic red housing and in to the tray. As already stated.. I had the help of a friendly mechanic to do this part.

9) Re-attach the clips in to the grooves. Make sure the metal contacts on the first clip touch the same areas as prior to removal. Second clip I presume was for ensuring first clip stays tight.. clips again in to the grooves.

10) Reveral of first steps for refitting. Take the tray unit to car and reattach the plasticy white securing rivet and plug in the power cable in to the base of the power socket (in to the white plastic section where there are plug prongs). Ease the tray unit back in to it's normal resting position in car until it is as secure and fitting as normal. Fit back the ashtray's center torx screw. Gently feed the gearstick material around the edges of the gearstick plastic housing. Try not to leave any of the material below the clips. Mine seemed to feed into the side edges of the plastic casing for a firm hold. Manouvre the plastic gearstick housing back in to is fixed position.. ensuring all the clips are put in place. (From memory i think i lowered in the front clips first and then eased in the other clips.. was quite easy). This leaves entire gearstick surround back to normal. Place in both front side console's torx screws... do one 6/8ths tight.. then other 6/8ths.. then tighten both up (not overly tight) to leave the cover nice and flush in position. Replace (or renew) fuse in to fuse compartment and close up the compartment panel door. Get some device to test the newly refitted power socket. Preferably not a lighter, but perhaps a mobile phone charger (ect) which has an LED to show its charging. Hopefully your newly refitted socket unit will now be back in full working order.

Perhaps overkill with some parts of this how-to explanation.. but I prefer and often need a detailed info (even for covering the simplest stuff involved in a proceedure) than having a lack of info. Hope this helps someone.
 

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8) (I have to admit lack of knowledge for this step). The socket is still attached to the ash tray unit... gripped inside it's red plastic housing. On some models it may be freed up easily.. but not on the car I worked on. I'm not certain on the proceedure of how to release it. It's clear it doesn't just slide up and out because there are red plastic anchors which prevent it being lifted upwards.. and equally it would not slide downwards because of the red plastic ring and the ring cusp of the metal socket unit itself. Mechanic told me the red plastic needed to be squeezed in a certain way to release it out of the tray unit. When both the red plastic unit and socket are free of the tray unit... the red plastic ring is still attached to the socket but free and rotates. It will slip off the bottom of the old socket when rotated to a certain position. Insert the new socket back in to the plastic red housing and in to the tray. As already stated.. I had the help of a friendly mechanic to do this part.
I have had exactly the same prob, can anyone offer me some advice on how to remove the socket from the casing without me having to visit the garage?

I have tried squeezing the red plastic as sherad's mechanic suggested but no joy? anyone manged to do this?
 

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I got mine out(can't remember exactly how but seemed obvious what was holding it at the time) now i can't get the ash tray back in without the lighter popping out, its hitting something below??
 

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all I know in the good old days they used to UNSCREW - try sticking your finger in the socket to hold it and twist the bit underneath
 

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gave that a go too, no joy.

man it's like it's laughing at me, seriously done everything short of taking a hammer to it, i love my golf but this is ridiculous. think i'll have to man down and take it to the dealership
 
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