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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok after having a problem with my mileage display I dismantled the dash while keeping it plugged in and realised it was due to the LCD making a poor electrical contact. this is the fix I came up with.



Drop steering wheel using height adjustment under the wheel

Remove the lower instrument cluster guard with cloth bit, just pulls off

Undo the two screws securing the cluster to dash

Pull the clocks forward and to the left and release the green plastic wiring clip by pulling upwards.

Do the same for the right hand side.

Clocks will now come out

With the clocks facing down on a bench remove the four hex screws from the rear of the cluster, the back will now come away as will the front.

Remove the needles by pulling straight up, try not to apply any sideways movement as you will bend the stems they are on

The printed face can now be removed

Looking at the lcd's you will see there is a silver cage around them, if you flip the cluster over you will see four clips for each cage (highlighted in red) pop them off one at a time and push them through the holes keeping the face of the clocks pointing down (I recommend you have a cloth under them ready to catch the glass LCD's just in case)



now flip the clocks back face up and if the lcd is still in place lift it off

You will see that there are one or two pieces of conductive rubber (highlighted in red) either on the LCD (depending on which display you are working on) or stuck in the cluster. Don't worry if they have separated from the LCD its fine as we would be separating them anyway



If you lift the rubber out you will see the PCB underneath

With a cotton bud and alcohol or similar wipe the PCB contacts, do the same for both sides of each of the conductive rubber strips. Put the strips back into the slots.

Now wipe the edges of the LCD gently with a barely damp (with alcohol) cotton bud.

Place the LCD back on top of the conductive rubber pads.

Now is the part that made the difference for me, the cage was not applying enough pressure to the lcd for it to make a firm contact with the rubber pads what you need to do is apply very thin strips of tape to the back of the metal cage where it contacts the LCD screen. I used parcel tape but i imagine insulating tape would be a better option. I used 3 layers stuck one on top of the other and cut into strips with a scalpel. You are aiming to make the cage press more firmly on the glass part.



Once you have applied the tape then bend the legs of the cage in slightly to make sure it tightly grips the cluster tabs. Push the cage almost all the way but before snapping into place make sure the LCD is still straight on the pads, if not adjust it now py pushing it with a thin screwdriver.

I used these tabs shown below to make sure it was reasonably straight



Once your sure its reasonably straight snap the clips into place.

Reasemble Cluster

When you come to your needles the best way to make sure they are straight is very lightly press them on then turn to the direction of 0

They will stop when the reach the parked positions and you can then twist off while pulling up in the direction of the 0 position and then press them back on firmly.

Put the screws back in and your done.

If it goes wrong please don't blame me [:O]

 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
My mileage display was totally corrupt and my clock was non existent. Not had a problem since with either. Decided to do the computer for the write up and its still working fine, if anything it seems brighter somehow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yep sounds like this would fix it, my clock flickered too. I think once the car gets warm the display expands and makes a good contact. it is less than a mm we are talking about so its feasable. Give it a go
 

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there was a thread over on ASN years ago with a similar fix for the audis as its the same design. only seemed to work on a few cars tho. not knocking ya write up fella not at all, but just adding a little info before people start ripping there clocks apart.

having changed all the SM LEDS for blue ones on lcd display i know 1st hand how fiddly they are. [Y]
 

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Haynes manual doesnt really describe how to dismantle the dash. To start the job from scratch to get the cluster out do i follow what was said in the main text

"Drop steering wheel using height adjustment under the wheel

Remove the lower instrument cluster guard with cloth bit, just pulls off

Undo the two screws securing the cluster to dash

Pull the clocks forward and to the left and release the green plastic wiring clip by pulling upwards.

Do the same for the right hand side." ETC
 

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Thank to your advice i was able to take out the cluster but my LCD was completely different to the one described in the picture. Mine was connected by a ribbon and had plastic clips holding it in place. I didnt really know what to do apart from clean the PCB contacts.

Thank you anyway. But if anyone has any other advice please feel free to let me know,
 

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Thought I would keep this updated. I have neither the kind of cluster the OP has or the one with ribbon cable holding the LCD screens in place. Mines was an LCD screen with a long rubber strip. I'd just like to say thanks to the OP for this guide as it basically inspired me to have a go at doing mines and it was a suprisingly quick process, It took me about 25 mins in all to strip the cluster out, take it inside... dissassemble everything and then I just used lens cleaning wipes on the rubber part, LCD screen and metal holder, when I refitted it I made sure to bend the metal prongs so it held the LCD down and went to refit back into the car. The longest part of the process I think was trying to refit the green connector plug ! I wasn't really hoping for much, but it worked.... I now have a working clock again [:D]

I also had time to readjust my dials as the speedo needle was sitting about 7mph and the rev was slightly out. Really chuffed with the results. Wish I took some photos of what I did so other posters with the same problem can see.

Before:



Now:



I also found this video really useful if anyone else is attempting to disassemble the cluster, I didn't even have to take the other needles off. I only had to remove the rev counter for this 10 minute job.


Thanks again [:D]
 
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