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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
mines gone AGAIN!!! GRRRR, I need to get a replacement, but am thinking that instead of paying VW for the it, I would rather buy an aftermarket one an save a bit of cash at the same time, anyone know who I should use for it, and could I get it this week?

the cars an 2.0, APK engine I think....
 

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Dont know for certian mate but it could be a BOSCH ??

Try German Sweedish French or Euro car parts, they usually supply the same parts as the dealers?
 

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Can someone tell me how easy this is to replace.  I know mine's knackered as it's been diagnosed by the local garage however i'd like to replace it myself (as it;s cheaper!). Don;t have access to VAGCOM tho.
 

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I' ve not changed changed one on a 1.8T, but I have done a V5.

Its just a case of disconnecting the wiring connector and unscrewing the old one. When replacing make sure the threaded part is either pregreased (by the manufacturer) or smear Copaslip on it.

Be warned access to the lambda probe may be very restricted, its best to have a look at this aspect before considering the job. Split ring spanners and or crows feet spanners can make the job less difficult.

When you have change the probe, you will need someone with VAGCOM to reset the engine management unit, this will clear the existing DTCs and enable the unit to relearn the characteristics of the new sensor.
 

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symptoms are, well for my 2.0l anyway, juddering on idle, black soot out the exhaust and it drinks petrol like a good'un!!
 

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What are the symptoms when this probe goes.
The probe has several modes of failure and post 2001 cars have two or
more probes. Depending on severity and probe position, you will
either get an emission light or rough running, or both. You need VAGCOM
or equivalent to diagnose any problems.

If you are going to post technical questions, you need to give us a
clue as to the model and variant of car that you are driving.
 

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What are the symptoms when this probe goes.
The probe has several modes of failure and post 2001 cars have two or more probes. Depending on severity and probe position, you will either get an emission light or rough running, or both. You need VAGCOM or equivalent to diagnose any problems.

If you are going to post technical questions, you need to give us a clue as to the model and variant of car that you are driving.
The cars a 1.8t GTi 2002, I have the emissions light permanently on but the car seems to be running OK I got rid of it yesterday by disconnecting the battery for half an hour but it has come back again today.

It's booked into the dealers next Thurs but they want ?60 + vat just to check it with VAG COM and I can see the bill ending up over ?200 just to change a probe, the dealer did mention an oxygen probe and I'm guessing this is the same thing.
 

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What are the symptoms when this probe goes.
The probe has several modes of failure and post 2001
cars have two or more probes. Depending on severity and probe
position, you will either get an emission light or rough running,
or both. You need VAGCOM or equivalent to diagnose any problems.

If
you are going to post technical questions, you need to give us a clue
as to the model and variant of car that you are driving.
The cars a 1.8t GTi 2002, I have the emissions light permanently on
but the car seems to be running OK I got rid of it yesterday by
disconnecting the battery for half an hour but it has come back again
today.

It's booked into the dealers next Thurs but they want ?60 + vat just
to check it with VAG COM and I can see the bill ending up over ?200
just to change a probe, the dealer did mention an oxygen probe and I'm
guessing this is the same thing.
There are quite a few faults which will turn the emissions light on,
the most common are coolant temperature sensor or lambda sensor.

An oxygen probe is another name for a lambda sensor.
 

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894 Posts
What are the symptoms when this probe goes.
The probe has several modes of failure and post 2001 cars have two or more probes. Depending on severity and probe position, you will either get an emission light or rough running, or both. You need VAGCOM or equivalent to diagnose any problems.

If you are going to post technical questions, you need to give us a clue as to the model and variant of car that you are driving.
The cars a 1.8t GTi 2002, I have the emissions light permanently on but the car seems to be running OK I got rid of it yesterday by disconnecting the battery for half an hour but it has come back again today.

It's booked into the dealers next Thurs but they want ?60 + vat just to check it with VAG COM and I can see the bill ending up over ?200 just to change a probe, the dealer did mention an oxygen probe and I'm guessing this is the same thing.
There are quite a few faults which will turn the emissions light on, the most common are coolant temperature sensor or lambda sensor.
An oxygen probe is another name for a lambda sensor.
Thanks for the help Al.

One more question do you know where the lambda senor is located, as I really don't want to take it to the dealers if I can do the job myself..
 

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What are the symptoms when this probe goes.
The probe has several modes of failure and post 2001
cars have two or more probes. Depending on severity and probe
position, you will either get an emission light or rough running,
or both. You need VAGCOM or equivalent to diagnose any problems.

If
you are going to post technical questions, you need to give us a clue
as to the model and variant of car that you are driving.
The cars a 1.8t GTi 2002, I have the emissions light permanently on
but the car seems to be running OK I got rid of it yesterday by
disconnecting the battery for half an hour but it has come back again
today.

It's booked into the dealers next Thurs but they want ?60 + vat just
to check it with VAG COM and I can see the bill ending up over ?200
just to change a probe, the dealer did mention an oxygen probe and I'm
guessing this is the same thing.
There are quite a few faults which will turn the
emissions light on, the most common are coolant temperature sensor or
lambda sensor.
An oxygen probe is another name for a lambda sensor.
Thanks for the help Al.

One more question do you know where the lambda senor is located, as
I really don't want to take it to the dealers if I can do the job
myself..
I don't know exactly for your particular model, but they are all in a certain area.

Follow the exhaust back from the manifold untill you find the catalytic
convertor, the first lambda sensor will be screwed into the pipe
somewhere between the catalyst and the manifold.. The second lambda
sensor is usually screwed in part way along the convertor or in the
pipe just behind it. They both can be recognised by the wiring leading
to them, there is nothing with wiring attached on the exhaust pipe.

So are you going to spend close on ?100 on a probe without proper
diagnosis then ? even if you are correct and change the probe, you
still need VAGCOM to reset the management unit to adapt to the new
sensor.
 

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894 Posts
What are the symptoms when this probe goes.
The probe has several modes of failure and post 2001 cars have two or more probes. Depending on severity and probe position, you will either get an emission light or rough running, or both. You need VAGCOM or equivalent to diagnose any problems.

If you are going to post technical questions, you need to give us a clue as to the model and variant of car that you are driving.
The cars a 1.8t GTi 2002, I have the emissions light permanently on but the car seems to be running OK I got rid of it yesterday by disconnecting the battery for half an hour but it has come back again today.

It's booked into the dealers next Thurs but they want ?60 + vat just to check it with VAG COM and I can see the bill ending up over ?200 just to change a probe, the dealer did mention an oxygen probe and I'm guessing this is the same thing.
There are quite a few faults which will turn the emissions light on, the most common are coolant temperature sensor or lambda sensor.
An oxygen probe is another name for a lambda sensor.
Thanks for the help Al.

One more question do you know where the lambda senor is located, as I really don't want to take it to the dealers if I can do the job myself..
I don't know exactly for your particular model, but they are all in a certain area.
Follow the exhaust back from the manifold untill you find the catalytic convertor, the first lambda sensor will be screwed into the pipe somewhere between the catalyst and the manifold.. The second lambda sensor is usually screwed in part way along the convertor or in the pipe just behind it. They both can be recognised by the wiring leading to them, there is nothing with wiring attached on the exhaust pipe.

So are you going to spend close on ?100 on a probe without proper diagnosis then ? even if you are correct and change the probe, you still need VAGCOM to reset the management unit to adapt to the new sensor.
I'm defiantly going to cancel the dealer appointment and take it from there, I just get this feeling that I'm being shafted.
 

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Sorry yo jump in on your thread but i have a Lambda probe problem too on my V6, infact two have gone down according to VAGCOM. Im quite happy doing the spanner work as im a mechanical Technician, but my problem is knowing which ones i need to replace as there are 4 on the V6!

17516 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor Heating; B2 S1: Performance too Low

P1108 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent

17511 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor Heating; B1 S1: Performance too Low

P1103 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent

Can someone tell me for deffinate which sensors are B1S1 and B2S2, are they the two on the manifold or the two either side of the cars, or one of each.

P.S.

try these for cheaper probes

http://www.gendan.co.uk/category_112.html

Cheers
 

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Sorry yo jump in on your thread but i have a Lambda probe problem too on my V6, infact two have gone down according to VAGCOM. Im quite happy doing the spanner work as im a mechanical Technician, but my problem is knowing which ones i need to replace as there are 4 on the V6!

17516 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor Heating; B2 S1: Performance too Low

P1108 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent

17511 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor Heating; B1 S1: Performance too Low

P1103 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent

Can someone tell me for deffinate which sensors are B1S1 and B2S2, are they the two on the manifold or the two either side of the cars, or one of each.

P.S.

try these for cheaper probes

http://www.gendan.co.uk/category_112.html

Cheers
The two probes B1S1 and B2S1 listed on the VAGCOM report are the two before the catalyst. (You have written B1S1 and B2S2 in your question)

S1 is position before catalyst and S2 is position after the catalyst.

B1 means Bank 1 ie 1 bank of 3 cylinders and B2 means Bank 2.

I would be wary of using non OEM sensors, as they are rarely satisfactory.
 

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As mine has 4 probes. 2 on the manifold, 1 before the cats and 1 after the cats, I take it the 2 i need to replace are the 2 on the manifold?
 

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As mine has 4 probes. 2 on the manifold, 1 before
the cats and 1 after the cats, I take it the 2 i need to replace
are the 2 on the manifold?
There are two probes on the exhaust downpipes (before the cat) these are the ones you need to replace.

The other two are on the pipes exiting from the cats.

You will find that the front lambda probes have a 6 pin connector while the rear ones have a 4 pin connector.

The 6 pin probes are expensive (approx ?108 each)
 

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Hi,

I have VAG-COM if your near preston, lancashire I can clear your fault/s for you.

It been a while since I have had to clear any fault codes using vag, would I therefore be right in saying that if I did readiness test that everything should be shown as passed???
 

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Hi,

I have VAG-COM if your near preston, lancashire I can clear your fault/s for you.

It been a while since I have had to clear any fault codes using vag,
would I therefore be right in saying that if I did readiness test that
everything should be shown as passed???
To clear fault codes, read the engine controller, press "fault codes" button and then press "clear codes" button.

If you read readiness straight after resetting fault codes, most of
them will show a FAIL. The readiness codes are reset after a certain
period of driving under different conditions, in my experience
some of them can take two days to show as a pass.
 
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