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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I started with standard keyblade with no remote locking and I retrofitted it. I reckon it's probably either my best mod or one of my best mods to date (for anyone who know's how heavily modified my car is, you'll see the significance in that). One of the reasons this mod is so good is because it allows people with standard keys to switch and then delock their cars.

I'll update this thread a bit when I can be bothered but i'll stick down the parts needed and the diagram and it means a few more of you can have a go at it if you want. Most of this install is common sense but if you have trouble understanding the diagram let me know and i'll spoon feed the information to you. I also have interior sensors and headliner looms for sale if anyone wants to install the motion sensors in their car. If you already have remote keyfob locking and alarm but no interior sensors it's a very easy retrofit to put them in.

Parts needed

CCM (the one with 2 plugs, a 23 pin and a 15 pin)
Siren
interior motion sensors
Sensor deactivation switch
headliner loom
Fuse 144 and Fuse 111 (both attach to bottom of relay plate)
Some wiring and pins from a donor car is always useful. You can use the diagram below to find out what pins you need.
T15 (15 pin plug on donor CCM, preferably cut out wth pins and some wire to solder too)
Key fob to code to the CCM.
New keyblade to fit the new keyfob.

There are 2 plugs in the CCM. Your car will already have a single plug CCM with the T23 plug fully wired. You just need to add the 15 pin plug in.

Total cost of this mod is typically between £100 - £300 depending on where you get parts.

T15 = The 15 pin connector on the CCM.
T8e = The 8 pin connector at the A pillar. This is from the headliner loom.
T32 = Blue connector on cluster
T32a = Green connector on cluster

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uk-mkivs
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Good job Baz, I already have remote central locking & alarm, but always good to have a handy wiring diagram along with Elsawin & Haynes! [Y]

I will very soon be doing a full OEM electric window install, got all the bits from a very good VW breakers over here in N.I. Actually Im just back & he has quite a few boras if your looking any parts.
 

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That reminds me Baz, you never got back to me about what CCM part number I needed [;)]
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Sorry Suj I thought I posted that on another thread. I think it ends in 799 B but i'll confirm it during the weekend. Got a big weekend ahead with a lot of work scheduled but I'll get the part number scanned for you. I might even have a spare CCM.

Keyser-Soze, I know most of the VW breakers here but i'll PM you for any details so there isn't a surge of people heading for it to get bits I need before me. I could do with a couple of small things so it depends on what breakers it is.
 

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Sorry Suj I thought I posted that on another thread. I think it ends in 799 B but i'll confirm it during the weekend. Got a big weekend ahead with a lot of work scheduled but I'll get the part number scanned for you. I might even have a spare CCM.
No worries dude, cheers [Y] I ended up going for an aftermarket OEM kit, which is real nice BUT if I think I can do this OEM retrofit myself I am still tempted to go for it.. It could be like "Remote Locking Project v2" for me [:)]

Looking forward to the details this thread [Y]
 

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Baz, haven't got the remote locking and thinking of heading in the same direction (but not interested in the alarm bit)

Please can you confirm a couple of things (for those of us who are more handy with spanners than with soldering !!)?

My interpretation of the above is that the existing T23 will plug in the new CCM, no mods. That will then work with the new fobs and take care of the remote locking. T15 is the alarm side of things. If I don't want the alarm bit can i leave it out, or are there basic connection that still need to be maintained?

cheers

oli
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Nope - You need the T15 plug in there as well. Pins 7 and 10 are used to take the signal from the remote control wire in the A pillar.

I'd need to check and see if one of the fuses is needed there but you can leave out the sensors and alarm siren if you want. T8e is the connector at the A pillar. The T32 connections are for the indicator flash so you know it's locked and armed. Again, optional. For the little bit of extra wiring and parts involved it's advisable to put in the entire system but it's an easy enough to mix and match parts of the install as well.
 

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Thanks, makes sense!

According to http://www.keysforvw.com/mk4.html , only a key with a code matching my car (i.e. matching ccm type i'm guessing) can be programmed to work with the vehicle. Did you have to pair them up, or did the keys and ccm come from the same vehicle? or is it a yank thing [:(]?

Really looking forward to this upgrade now!![<:eek:)]
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
If you can get the keyfob from the donor car you get the parts from it's excellent. If not, Ray or Kalu, or Ramesh are the guys to speak to. I'll try and include a list of keys and CCMs up here at some stage.
 

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Still gathering the bits for my remote -ocking upgrade and found a ccm + 'the part of the key with buttons' (remote?) from same donor vehicle, less the 'blade end' (fob?) of it . Did a bit more research and was wondering about the imobiliser:

Looking at my current key, it doesn't look like there could be anything clever (i.e immobiliser transponder) inside, just a battery and light. Guessing there is no immobiliser on my vehicle (2000 australian model) as a result. I will test that theory by trying to start the car with the plastic key.

So if i transplant the ccm from a later vehicle (which most likely had an immobiliser), i shouldn't have to code the immobiliser on the key fob? Unless the immobiliser function comes with the ccm, which i don't think is the case. This would make it a lot easier, with just the remotes to be pogrammed.

Does this sound right?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Someone can correct me if I'm wrong but that plastic key has a transponder in it? Because I know it can start the car anyway and not activate the immo on the dash.

If you have the key I think you have, then it does indeed have a transponder in the back of the blade. I can't remember the exact construction of it.

And yes you will still need vag-com to activate the keyfob and new key and transponder with the ecu and cluster.
 

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I read somewhere else there is an immobilser on the early mk4, with a transponder in the old style keys too (with light, non flip-bade type) .

So you changed cluster and ecu? I didn't realise that from your original post. This job is growing ![surrender]
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
So you changed cluster and ecu? I didn't realise that from your original post. This job is growing !
I did but it has nothing to do with this thread. It's irrelevant to fitting these parts.
 

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oli335i - I can give you a bit of advice on this.

Your car should have an immobiliser as standard, the immobiliser is built into your instrument cluster not the CCM, if you can remove the transponder chip from your old key (without breaking it) and install this into your new/used flip key you will not need to reprogram the immobiliser.

If you are installing a new key with new transponder chip - the key will need programmed to the immobiliser.

So in short -

new remote key & transponder = recode key & reprogram remote.

your original transponder chip & new remote = reprogram remote.

your original transponer & remote from matching CCM = no reprogramming of anything.

Baz thought I would chip in with a bit of help seeing as you kindly helped me out the other day with removing the headliner loom, much appreciated![Y]
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Cheers Phil

Well cleared up. Your post also highlights how invaluable Vag-com is for mods like this.
 

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No problem Baz, yes Vagcom is a must have tool for doing these kind of jobs, but lets not forget the other invaluable tool Vagtacho for retrieving the SKC codes too!

Ollie as Neil said be VERY carefull removing the transponder from your original key, if it breaks its useless & unless you have a spare key you won't be able to start your car!!
 

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Opened the key and understand what you mean: small, made of glass, glued to plastic...mmmm

Someone suggested Hickleys for spare transponders, and I couldn't believe the price. I'll splash out before attempting anything i think
 

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I have started collecting the different bits together and it is taking shape.

Only trouble so far is the remotes I bought from ebay: guess what, they sent the wrong ones.

Hence my question: the ones I need are 2-button 1J0 959 53 'G' and I got an 'AG' instead. Despite the fact that it is a 3 button remote, does any one know if it can be programmed to mtach my 'G' one? It would save a lot of ebay headaches
 
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