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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well with uni over for christmas, and next years shows looming, I decided to get on with the boot install seen as I had the parts around anyway! First I stripped everything out of the rear, and then with the help of a mate, started to dynamat the whole boot area. Some dynamat was also put into the rear tailgate, just random squares, due to the hard to get at skin!

As it was going dark we also got the front door card off, and the woofers and tweeters out, ready for dynamat tomorrow - has anyone done or got advice about doing the front doors? Im planning on just dyanmatting the main metal panel with the winder mechanism on that the speaker bolts too, but is it worth doing the actual door skin, or the door card itself too?

Im also worried about the rear of my speakers rusting, as the inside bottom of the door was wet when the old speakers were removed, and there was no protection from this - although saying this the metal components of the old speakers dont have a spec of rust on them - anyone got any advice on this too?

For now the speakers will just be replaced with some Infinity Kappa components, although at some point in the future some new door pods will be made to upgrade the front speakers more.

Anyways onto a few pics, then I'll update again tomorrow! Andy [:)]

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Any questions or comments welcome!
 

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looking good, get some more wax oil in the bottom inside of the doors, that should give you some protection,

yes do the door skins
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Ah, good idea! I probably will do the door skins too - does anyone know if it is difficult to get the metal panel off the door; Im guessing its literally just the bolts holding it on and thats it? While I have it off I might make a cover or something to help protect the speakers more!

Cheers [:D]
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Well whilst sorting out what's going on tomorrow with the install, I decided I wanted to keep the tweeter where they are currently, out the way for now, and not a problem... So I hacked the old units out, and replaced them with some Infinity Kappa tweeters; they were slightly bigger than I had hoped, so unfortunately I had to cut the grills, but they don't look too bad - I just don't know whether to paint the silver speaker grill black or not... What do you guys reckon?

Anyways, here's a quick pic...

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[:)]
 

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The doors skins are merely bolted on by about 11 M6 bolts,and various bits of wiring loom,lock mechamism and window regulator,although the inner skin comes out with the regulator still attached.
I rather crudely (but very effectively) sandwiched a heavy duty plastic bag between the back of the speaker and the door when I screwed it into place,I've even made water deflectors from Dynamat on some cars I've done.

Chris.

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looks like a pro job your doing there dude.can i be cheaky and ask how much all the sound proof cost you?

also when mines up high there is something in the rearside panels that vibrate how can i stop that or what is it?

so what you gona be fitting in it then?

gray
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
looks like a pro job your doing there dude.can i be cheaky and ask how much all the sound proof cost you?

also when mines up high there is something in the rearside panels that vibrate how can i stop that or what is it?

so what you gona be fitting in it then?

gray
Hey fella, cheers for comments! I have paid ?220 for 72 sq ft. of dynamat extreme, the boots had 1-2 layers, and you can see how far over arches etc. I've gone, and there's enough left to do the doors skins, plus door middle panels, and then probably a sheet or so left over for the actual boot build/sub boxes. Im not sure what you have vibrating in there - there's some large polystyrene blocks, and some foam in bags, but I shouldnt imagine either of these would rattle too much? Best bet is to take the rear cards off and see if anythings loose?

There's two 10's and a 15 , Alpine Type-R sub-wise, all with seperate alpine V12 sub amps. Plus a 4 channel Alpine V12 running at the moment Infinity Kappa Components - Although this is something I'd like to upgrade soon. Up front there's an alpine hard drive and cd head unit, and in the glove box is an alpine EQ, and fader; so that I can adjust the levels between the 10 inch subs and 15 inch depending on what type of music Im listening too! Will be dropping in a Odyssey PC1700 battery too, if I have the funds after christmas! [:D]

Andy [:)]
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Update on whats been done today...

Started off by stripping more of the car out, seats, centre console and glovebox - this was to enable getting under the carpet to run cables easier. Then this happened -

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With having both din slots taken up in the dash, I needed somewhere to fit the EQ, and that little slot in the glovebox was looking good - nice fit and easy access for cables from the HU! So the first thing was to get the back off in order to run the cables and give the unit some extra cooling. Next to the EQ will go a fade adjuster.

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EQ fitted, and cables hooked up.

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Running new wire through the car, upgrading to 0 AWG; was an absolute pig to get through the firewall, but after a quick stop at machine mart for a bigger drill-bit all went through ok. I just hope their isn't a lump under the carpet when everything is put back in!

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Ready for connectoin tomorrow hopefully.

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Cabling running through the cabin, 4 sets of RCA's (Front, rear, 10 inch subs and 15 inch sub.), 0 AWG, remote cable, and IXOS speaker cable.

Hopefully tomorrow will get most of the trim back in, and the drivers side speaker cable in. With all the cables in place to the boot, I can then start making the actual sub boxes and amp racks! [:D]

Andy [:)]
 

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Looking good so far dude,and nice to see someone actually getting on with it,and not taking months as mine always ends up taking.
Hopefully you're still going for the uprated alternator ASAP,if you do I can't see why you need to spend money on an expensive battery if the engine is remaining stock,or at least the compression will be stock? The engine will be no harder to turn over with all your new gear in,and in fact the bigger alternator should keep the battery topped up a bit better,making it easier to turn over.
And also don't forget that to make best use of your O SWG cable,there's no point connecting it to the battery that is linked to the alternator via a piece of roughly 8 SWG (ish) cable,you need to go direct to the alternator itself.And also you will need to have a better earth from the case of the alternator to the chassis of the car,I'd say at least 4 SWG for that purpose.
Oh and did you read my reply to your uprated alternator post in the ICE and electrics section?

Chris.
 

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Looking good Andy , some decent progress happening here.

Cant wait to hear the system when i next see you. If you have any scraps of the dynamat chuck them my way :p

 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Looking good so far dude,and nice to see someone actually getting on with it,and not taking months as mine always ends up taking.
Hopefully you're still going for the uprated alternator ASAP,if you do I can't see why you need to spend money on an expensive battery if the engine is remaining stock,or at least the compression will be stock? The engine will be no harder to turn over with all your new gear in,and in fact the bigger alternator should keep the battery topped up a bit better,making it easier to turn over.
And also don't forget that to make best use of your O SWG cable,there's no point connecting it to the battery that is linked to the alternator via a piece of roughly 8 SWG (ish) cable,you need to go direct to the alternator itself.And also you will need to have a better earth from the case of the alternator to the chassis of the car,I'd say at least 4 SWG for that purpose.
Oh and did you read my reply to your uprated alternator post in the ICE and electrics section?

Chris.
Lol, don't worry as soon as the wiring is in it'll take forever to get the actual boot build done probably... lol [:D] Forgot I hadn't replied to that other thread [:$], have re-worked my figures and coming out alot more sensible! I've got a load of 4 AWG so at the minimum the engine wiring will be upgraded to that, but I also have another 5m length of the 0 AWG, so it will probably be done in that! Thats one of the next things to be done, so if/when I go for the bigger alternator I'll probably do it then. [:D] [Y]

Andy [:)]
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Looking good Andy , some decent progress happening here.

Cant wait to hear the system when i next see you. If you have any scraps of the dynamat chuck them my way :p





Hey fella, thanks for the comments! [:D] I probably won't have the sytem in and running for the next meet [:(] Got assessments for uni mid Jan and going away over christmas so won't have much time to work on it after tomorrow, I just wanted to get the main wiring all down and in, but hopefully it'll all be in and fully functioning for the February Meet!

You'll be lucky for scraps, I'm probably going to need a few sheets more, but if by a miraculous occurance there is some left over I'll think of you [:p]

Andy [:)]
 

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aright andy

you are very brave indeed, i woud never have a crack at anything like that, i took of my door card the other day to fit the new leather one and it was a right paint to get back on it took about 20 attemps, and i snapped some of those plastic stoppers too.

looking good so far, cant wait to see what it is like when finnished.

instead of putting a sound system in just do a PIMP MY RIDE and stick a hot tub in there lol

keep it up fella

lex[Y]
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
aright andy

you are very brave indeed, i woud never have a crack at anything like that, i took of my door card the other day to fit the new leather one and it was a right paint to get back on it took about 20 attemps, and i snapped some of those plastic stoppers too.

looking good so far, cant wait to see what it is like when finnished.

instead of putting a sound system in just do a PIMP MY RIDE and stick a hot tub in there lol

keep it up fella

lex[Y]
Lol, cheers fella! I've always been into audio so I just love getting down and dirty with cables... Lol... anyways...

I'll go with that, and stick a hot tub in there between the subs, hope it'll take the weight.... [:D]

Andy [:)]
 

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Great install your doing there Andy.

I always thought in order to minimise interference that you had to run the phono leads down one side, and the Power/Remote cables down the other- (that's what I did with my install) But it seems you have ran them all together down the middle. (either your cables are well insulated or someone told me porkies yrs ago)
 

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Hi Andy,

It's looking good so far!!

Can i just ask though, what do you do about the spare wheel? obviously you will still need easy access to it if you get a flat etc, but how do you build the system above it? (hope that makes sense?)

Thanks

Paul
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Great install your doing there Andy.

I always thought in order to minimise interference that you had to
run the phono leads down one side, and the Power/Remote cables down the
other- (that's what I did with my install) But it seems you have ran
them all together down the middle. (either your cables are well
insulated or someone told me porkies yrs ago)
Hi there, and thanks for your comments! It is very true that you will
pick-up inteference if your cables are too close together - most people
run them down opposite sides of the car due to ease, literally getting
them down the side of the trim; and in these siuations with the cables
sitting ontop of each other you would get inteference. With mine, I've
got the power cable down the outside, and all the RCA's down the
centre, so there is a good gap all the way to the boot! [:D]

Update to follow in a few minutes... the components are now wired up and there isn't a whisper of inteferance!

Hi Andy,

It's looking good so far!!

Can i just ask though, what do you do about the spare wheel? obviously you will still need easy access to it if you get a flat etc, but how do you build the system above it? (hope that makes sense?)

Thanks

Paul
Hi, and thanks for the comments! In this particular install Im doing, I've done away with the spare wheel, and replaced it with two cans of tyre weld and an air compressor - this should fix most problems I have unless its a complete blow-out! The R32 and TT quattro's use the same system to minimise space usage!

In the last big install I did, I designed it so that the floor could actually be taken out to reveal a hidden space saver, check it out here: Clicky

So if you wanted to do a boot install yourself but also wanted to keep the spare wheel, it is possible with a bit of thinking! [:D]

Andy [:)]
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Ok, so a quick update on whats happened today! Had to get the car ready to drive again as I'm heading down to the Isle of Wight in an hour or so; but luckilymanaged to get virtually everything I wanted to do done....

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Components in the door, at a later date I will have to get back at the and fully dynamat the doors, as I simply ran out of time!

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Equaliser and fade adjuster installed in glovebox.

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I have simply dropped my multichannel amp in for now just so I had some music whilst Im away over christmas, hence why the wiring is messy and not properly sorted. Steve fabricated a board to sit in the wheel well so I have a flat surface to screw things too; this was then covered in dynamat too.

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How the interior is looking tonight... Very standard apart from the tweeters and twin head unit's; you only get let onto the fact there's something special by opening the glovebox to reveal the EQ!

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And finally after reconnecting the power, (and everything working with no smoke... [:D]) having a good test of the components in their new home, which I am very happy with! Considering the standard golf speaker positioning which is bloomin awful, I am very happy wth how they sound; especially with a bit of tweeking of the EQ! [;)]

So the next big update will be mid-January when I can start fabricating the proper boot install - amp racks, sub boxes, etc. etc.! Enjoy the pictures, any questions don't hesitate to ask!

Andy [:)]

PS. I'd like to say a massive thanks to my mate Steve who has helped over the last three days, couldn't have got nearly this amount done without him! Cheers mate [Y]
 

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Thats some hard work you've put into that Andy.Will love to see (and hear) the finished product in a few weeks time. Your cars really coming on now.

I bet that student loan has took a hammering lately[:p]

Keep up the good work[;)]

GOOF
 
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