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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Since owning my GTi TDI I have always thought the turbo sounds a bit noisy.

I know it's hard to explain an exact sound in writing but it sounds like a boost leak and most probably is... The turbo itself is fine and does boost but, it just seems that all the boost doesn't make it to the engine.

Is the turbo fairly audible on the ARL with your window down?

I have checked all the connectors and everything seems to be in order. I'm thinking of doing away with these and fitting some REAL pipes and jubilees TBH.

Has anyone done this? Apart from going FMIC (mines 100% standard, for now - LOL)

Thoughts and comments welcome [:D]
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Anyone?
The loudness can't be heard stood still. It's more under load.
Also, is there any real purpose for the top pipe to go towards the battery then back over?
 

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Since owning my GTi TDI I have always thought the turbo sounds a bit noisy.

I know it's hard to explain an exact sound in writing but it sounds like a boost leak and most probably is... The turbo itself is fine and does boost but, it just seems that all the boost doesn't make it to the engine.

Is the turbo fairly audible on the ARL with your window down?

I have checked all the connectors and everything seems to be in order. I'm thinking of doing away with these and fitting some REAL pipes and jubilees TBH.

Has anyone done this? Apart from going FMIC (mines 100% standard, for now - LOL)

Thoughts and comments welcome
It looks like you have a TDI 150 but if you don't already have a FMIC then I assume you've got the TDI 130.

Can you confirm which one you have?
 

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It must be a front mount surly? Esp because he talks about it going near the battery. I've never seen how the ARL is set up but the 130 side mount def doesn't go over there.

All of the vw joints with the circlip thing on my 130 seem to be crap and to leak for me. Replacing the seals helps unless the nodges on the male connector pipes are damaged. If they are damaged I wouldn't replace with vw i would buy propper pipe and connect with boost version jubillee clips.
 

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Ah forgot to mention. I used silicon pipe reducers that my local cliffords has in a big bin. Sorted through and found ones that i could use like a coupler around outside of each joint held on with boost style jubille clip and that has solved it but isn't very pretty.

might take a pic so you can have a laugh.
 

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Posted Image


Yeah. Looking Nice!

Posted Image


Posted Image


I used crappy jubilee clips on the blue pipe just cus they came with it. wouldn't recomend them though. However no boost leak and no popping off.
 

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Are these the only pipes that you've had to mend drx? I'm almost 100% sure i've got a boost leak somewhere, but i'm just not sure where to start when locating it.

Though if the VW seals are crap then I suppose I could have loads of crappy seals, so replacing them all (Well, dummying them up like above) would be a good place to start.

I should be looking for split pipes as well as the power lately seems to have dropped while my MPG has also dropped, though that is partly down to the coldness.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks guy's. It sure does have the FMIC, I just checked (it is also the GTi w/ARL).

drx - This is what I was thinking of doing. Who gives a F*rd what it looks like, unless it's a bling bay of course!

I am familiar with all sorts of cars including turbo diesels - just not VW's. The boost just sounds a bit too much... Just a thought, if the actuator pipe had perished/split, wouldn't it spike or go into safe mode?

I'm half tempted to whip the intercooler off now and check for splits.
 

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@Raymk4. No. The one from turbo to pancake used to fly off. The pancake to IC joiner leaked. The top IC connection also leaked.

@Custom_Chris. Not an expert but when ever i had leaks first thing i noticed was a sucky hiss when boosing. Also less boost and black smoke. When they pop off you cant see the car behind and you get no boost (and limp mode). On my old turbo the actuator vacume pipe (OEM original) was so badly perished i still cant work out how it was functioning.

On my 130 the trouble pipes are found by looking behind drivers wheel. Remove the splash guard separating the engine bay from wheel arch and running from behind the timingbelt crank pully area is the pipe out from turbo. Don't know how it is routed on the ARL 150 but good place to start.
 
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