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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I might need someone else to do this for me... or stash this one and get a simpler gauge.. one with just 2 blimming wires.

I have some in line fast blow fuses, if that's what's needed..
 

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Never wired up a boost gauge but if it were me:
  • White - Either X75 terminal under the dash (it's the switched live terminal), the switched live on the stereo harness, or the fuse box (if yours is manual then the auto box fuse terminal is switched live and empty, so you can use that with a piggy back fuse connector). Fuse box will be tidiest and safest, since you add an in-line fuse for it.
  • Red - can't see why they'd want a permanent live, but there's either the permanent live to the 12v socket (will be safe, since the socket has a fuse), or again the stereo harness has a permanent live too, or the fuse box.
  • Yellow - back lighting for the gauge. So I'd go to the blue/white illumination wire on the dimmer switch, or again back to the stereo harness for blue/white illumination wire.
  • Black - any metal, if you're by the fuse box then there's plenty of easy access screws which you can attach to with a ring crimp connector.
 

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I might need someone else to do this for me... or stash this one and get a simpler gauge.. one with just 2 blimming wires.

I have some in line fast blow fuses, if that's what's needed..
Run the yellow to blue grey wire on dimmer switch there is an earth under steering wheel and also a live n switch live


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all is said, you only got 4 wires... just put 2 inline 0.3amp fuses in the 2 12v ones and done... are they the ones that are smoked? i had those for my mk3 vr6 and that also came with 4 wires.... and if you don't connect both 12v you won't be able to read the gauge... I tested them but never put them in because they were for the turbo conversion i never did on it ( Instead i moved to the UK and sold the car)
 

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Never wired up a boost gauge but if it were me:
  • White - Either X75 terminal under the dash (it's the switched live terminal), the switched live on the stereo harness, or the fuse box (if yours is manual then the auto box fuse terminal is switched live and empty, so you can use that with a piggy back fuse connector). Fuse box will be tidiest and safest, since you add an in-line fuse for it.
  • Red - can't see why they'd want a permanent live, but there's either the permanent live to the 12v socket (will be safe, since the socket has a fuse), or again the stereo harness has a permanent live too, or the fuse box.
  • Yellow - back lighting for the gauge. So I'd go to the blue/white illumination wire on the dimmer switch, or again back to the stereo harness for blue/white illumination wire.
  • Black - any metal, if you're by the fuse box then there's plenty of easy access screws which you can attach to with a ring crimp connector.
This and only this. Use X75 for all gauges - ones that perform a 'start up' routine will reset when you crank it because the switched live for the radio/blows etc goes down when cranking. X75 stays hot.

Rest is all correct.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
This and only this. Use X75 for all gauges - ones that perform a 'start up' routine will reset when you crank it because the switched live for the radio/blows etc goes down when cranking. X75 stays hot.

Rest is all correct.
So use an inline fuse and a ring terminal for X75?

Does it matter what gauge wire I use to extend those with?
I got some pretty chunky black and red stuff...
 

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Yeah, exactly that. Worth having the gauge boot up first so you know if it does a dance first but if it's got a perm live and a switched I'd have said it does, or have some form of settings. If it doesn't, just put it onto the switched live at the stereo - saves you going back all the way to the footwell.

Also, if you're fitting a handful of gauges, I ran a single switched/ground to the radio (using X75 because my gauges do dance on power) and then put a bullet connector on that. I THEN made a daisy chain of bullets (so like bullet>wire>bullet>wire>bullet...) to build an extension cable and let me plug many gauges into it. If you do it like that use FEMALE bullets so you don't have a bunch of live metal hanging about together.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Yeah, exactly that. Worth having the gauge boot up first so you know if it does a dance first but if it's got a perm live and a switched I'd have said it does, or have some form of settings. If it doesn't, just put it onto the switched live at the stereo - saves you going back all the way to the footwell.

Also, if you're fitting a handful of gauges, I ran a single switched/ground to the radio (using X75 because my gauges do dance on power) and then put a bullet connector on that. I THEN made a daisy chain of bullets (so like bullet>wire>bullet>wire>bullet...) to build an extension cable and let me plug many gauges into it. If you do it like that use FEMALE bullets so you don't have a bunch of live metal hanging about together.
Should I try and match the gauge of the wiring in the pic or won't it matter?
 

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it won't matter... but if you do as @adam- suggested the thicker the ground and plus are the better the connection will be if you add more gauges... if it's just that one, than you can match the thickness of the wire but if that means going to the shop to buy some... check if you got some old school speaker wire laying about and use that... it'll be thicker but not to much.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
it won't matter... but if you do as @adam- suggested the thicker the ground and plus are the better the connection will be if you add more gauges... if it's just that one, than you can match the thickness of the wire but if that means going to the shop to buy some... check if you got some old school speaker wire laying about and use that... it'll be thicker but not to much.
I have rolls of chunky wire from when I was doing LED interiors...
Can't really imagine adding more gauges tbh. It'll just be more clutter.

Unless I swap to single din and put a couple in the cubbie space...
 
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