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My Mk.4 Golf/Bora has locking on the key, but didn't come with any remote fobs, can it be converted to remote locking, and if so how easy is it, and how much will it cost?
You could buy the relevant CCM (Central Convenience Module) that includes the radio receiver that won't be present if it didn't leave the factory with this option, but you also need a different wiring loom and of course only OEM remote fobs will work with it that need to operate on the right frequency and have the correct corresponding part number, and unless you're lucky enough to get a CCM and remote fobs all from the same donor car, then you'll also need access to VAG-COM or a trip to a VW main dealer to get the remotes coded to the CCM. Even second hand you could be looking at in excess of £200 to get all this done, there is however a cheaper option.
There are many universal remote central locking kits available, this guide details the fitting of the Toad RK30 which in my experience is the most reliable one available as I've been fitting these to mk.4s for many,many years now without any problems. This unit gives you a couple of two button remote fobs, with separate buttons for lock and unlock, and nothing else (what else would you need from remote locking?).
There are many cheaper units available on e-bay made in the far east, some are good and some aren't, but in my experience cheap is almost always false economy and will cost you more in the long run. When looking for one if you decide to go down this route as long as it has at least two central locking wires that give a negative pulse (this is the minimum spec of every add-on central locking system ever made) then this will work on a mk.4. Most will come with full six wire locking which will work in any car in the world, and some give you the option to buy them with OEM style remote key fobs that only need you to swap your keyblade(s) and transponder chip(s) over without the need for separate remote fobs.
If your car has any sort of OEM alarm (LED on top of the drivers door card and possibly ultrasonic sensors on the roof lining) then the locking connections MUST be made in the drivers door, if it doesn't have one then they can be made in either front door.
It's always easier as a point of reference to put it in the drivers door, so the first job will be to remove the drivers door card, as detailed HERE by those kind folks at the mighty VW Vortex,thanks guys!!!!
All the connections will be made in the loom that plugs into the multiplex unit (this controls central locking and windows), unplug it by placing a flat bladed screwdriver into the slot at the bottom of the connector as shown below and levering it downwards,the plug can now be pulled from the module.
![4k9Gm2c.jpg]()
VERY carefully cut back the cloth tape that binds the loom, it is possible to cut through the insulation on some of the thinner wires and very rarely to short two wires together, so it may be a good idea to disconnect the car battery before you get to this stage.
I mount the remote locking unit as shown to keep the aerial as close to the top of the door as possible, and so give it the best possible range.
![S8GWCFX.jpg]()
The loom can now be taped up to keep it all neat and tidy,keep the black/white and black/green separate but taped up for a reason we'll come to later.
The wires can now be connected as shown below for an RK30,for other units you will need to choose the option for negative polarity or pulse central locking.
The brown/white wire goes negative for 20 seconds every time you press the lock button,this is meant to be used as a total close output on cars that have this facilty,connect it to the grey/red wire to give full total close when locking the vehicle.
(The orange ignition sense wire is only needed to program new remotes, so it's up to you if you connect it or not).
It would be a very good idea to make the connections using a soldering iron and not the Scotchlock style if possible, and tape the joint tightly with electrical insulating tape once it's cooled down.
![OADPrzR.jpg]()
![or3go5C.jpg]()
If the car already has an OEM alarm then there is no need to connect the indicator wires if the indicators flash when you lock it with the key, if not then the rubber boot needs to be pulled off at both ends as shown.The two taped wires should be fed down the plastic tube that protects the existing loom, and then through the boot and into the car.
![kfcRXwE.jpg]()
I use the lid from a length of small plastic electrical trunking to get the wires through, once it's up into the space behind the fusebox tape it to the trunking lid and poke it through the space between the cluster and steering column until it appears in the space behind the switches. The switch blanks can be levered out using a plastic trim tool,or carefully with a flat bladed screwdriver with some thin cardboard wrapped around the blade to protect the finish on the plastic. The wires are connected as shown above, couldn't be easier as the colours are exactly the same.
That's about it, reconnect the battery and give it a test,the left hand button should lock the doors and the right hand one should unlock them, if you've got them the wrong way round it really doesn't matter too much with something simple like this, just remember which buttons you need to use, or swap them over if you feel the need.
If it works put the doorcard back on, and walk about grinning like a cat that's got the cream as you repeatedly push the button to lock and unlock it as you walk further and further away.
ALTHOUGH THESE CARS ARE PRETTY WELL BULLETPROOF,THEY STILL AREN'T INDESTRUCTIBLE,SO IF YOU'RE IN ANY DOUBT ABOUT DOING ANYTHING I'VE WRITTEN ABOUT HERE THEN PLEASE,PLEASE SEEK THE HELP OF AN EXPERT.
IF YOU DO THIS WORK YOURSELF AND DAMAGE YOUR CAR THEN I WON'T BE HELD RESPONSIBLE,THIS IS ALL DONE ENTIRELY AT YOUR OWN RISK.
You could buy the relevant CCM (Central Convenience Module) that includes the radio receiver that won't be present if it didn't leave the factory with this option, but you also need a different wiring loom and of course only OEM remote fobs will work with it that need to operate on the right frequency and have the correct corresponding part number, and unless you're lucky enough to get a CCM and remote fobs all from the same donor car, then you'll also need access to VAG-COM or a trip to a VW main dealer to get the remotes coded to the CCM. Even second hand you could be looking at in excess of £200 to get all this done, there is however a cheaper option.
There are many universal remote central locking kits available, this guide details the fitting of the Toad RK30 which in my experience is the most reliable one available as I've been fitting these to mk.4s for many,many years now without any problems. This unit gives you a couple of two button remote fobs, with separate buttons for lock and unlock, and nothing else (what else would you need from remote locking?).
There are many cheaper units available on e-bay made in the far east, some are good and some aren't, but in my experience cheap is almost always false economy and will cost you more in the long run. When looking for one if you decide to go down this route as long as it has at least two central locking wires that give a negative pulse (this is the minimum spec of every add-on central locking system ever made) then this will work on a mk.4. Most will come with full six wire locking which will work in any car in the world, and some give you the option to buy them with OEM style remote key fobs that only need you to swap your keyblade(s) and transponder chip(s) over without the need for separate remote fobs.
If your car has any sort of OEM alarm (LED on top of the drivers door card and possibly ultrasonic sensors on the roof lining) then the locking connections MUST be made in the drivers door, if it doesn't have one then they can be made in either front door.
It's always easier as a point of reference to put it in the drivers door, so the first job will be to remove the drivers door card, as detailed HERE by those kind folks at the mighty VW Vortex,thanks guys!!!!
All the connections will be made in the loom that plugs into the multiplex unit (this controls central locking and windows), unplug it by placing a flat bladed screwdriver into the slot at the bottom of the connector as shown below and levering it downwards,the plug can now be pulled from the module.
VERY carefully cut back the cloth tape that binds the loom, it is possible to cut through the insulation on some of the thinner wires and very rarely to short two wires together, so it may be a good idea to disconnect the car battery before you get to this stage.
I mount the remote locking unit as shown to keep the aerial as close to the top of the door as possible, and so give it the best possible range.
The loom can now be taped up to keep it all neat and tidy,keep the black/white and black/green separate but taped up for a reason we'll come to later.
The wires can now be connected as shown below for an RK30,for other units you will need to choose the option for negative polarity or pulse central locking.
RK30 wire colour
Function
Car wire colour or number
RED
+ 12 VOLTS SUPPLY
THICK RED/WHITE
BLACK
GROUND
THICK BROWN
ORANGE
IGNITION SENSE
NOT NORMALLY CONNECTED
RED/BLACK
LOCKING POLARITY
THICK BROWN
RED/YELLOW
LOCKING POLARITY
THICK BROWN
GREY/RED
LOCK PULSE
PIN # 24
BLUE/RED
UNLOCK PULSE
PIN # 4
BLUE/YELLOW
NOT USED
CUT OFF
GREY/YELLOW
NOT USED
CUT OFF
BLACK/WHITE
RIGHT INDICATOR
BLACK/WHITE
BLACK/GREEN
LEFT INDICATOR
BLACK/GREEN
BROWN/WHITE
TIMED TOTAL CLOSE O/P
PIN #24
The brown/white wire goes negative for 20 seconds every time you press the lock button,this is meant to be used as a total close output on cars that have this facilty,connect it to the grey/red wire to give full total close when locking the vehicle.
(The orange ignition sense wire is only needed to program new remotes, so it's up to you if you connect it or not).
It would be a very good idea to make the connections using a soldering iron and not the Scotchlock style if possible, and tape the joint tightly with electrical insulating tape once it's cooled down.
If the car already has an OEM alarm then there is no need to connect the indicator wires if the indicators flash when you lock it with the key, if not then the rubber boot needs to be pulled off at both ends as shown.The two taped wires should be fed down the plastic tube that protects the existing loom, and then through the boot and into the car.
I use the lid from a length of small plastic electrical trunking to get the wires through, once it's up into the space behind the fusebox tape it to the trunking lid and poke it through the space between the cluster and steering column until it appears in the space behind the switches. The switch blanks can be levered out using a plastic trim tool,or carefully with a flat bladed screwdriver with some thin cardboard wrapped around the blade to protect the finish on the plastic. The wires are connected as shown above, couldn't be easier as the colours are exactly the same.
That's about it, reconnect the battery and give it a test,the left hand button should lock the doors and the right hand one should unlock them, if you've got them the wrong way round it really doesn't matter too much with something simple like this, just remember which buttons you need to use, or swap them over if you feel the need.
If it works put the doorcard back on, and walk about grinning like a cat that's got the cream as you repeatedly push the button to lock and unlock it as you walk further and further away.
DISCLAIMER
ALTHOUGH THESE CARS ARE PRETTY WELL BULLETPROOF,THEY STILL AREN'T INDESTRUCTIBLE,SO IF YOU'RE IN ANY DOUBT ABOUT DOING ANYTHING I'VE WRITTEN ABOUT HERE THEN PLEASE,PLEASE SEEK THE HELP OF AN EXPERT.
IF YOU DO THIS WORK YOURSELF AND DAMAGE YOUR CAR THEN I WON'T BE HELD RESPONSIBLE,THIS IS ALL DONE ENTIRELY AT YOUR OWN RISK.
]. Heated seat controls,ESP and the infamous "FUNK" button,sure there's one more that escapes me at the moment.
