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My Mk.4 Golf/Bora has locking on the key, but didn't come with any remote fobs, can it be converted to remote locking, and if so how easy is it, and how much will it cost?

You could buy the relevant CCM (Central Convenience Module) that includes the radio receiver that won't be present if it didn't leave the factory with this option, but you also need a different wiring loom and of course only OEM remote fobs will work with it that need to operate on the right frequency and have the correct corresponding part number, and unless you're lucky enough to get a CCM and remote fobs all from the same donor car, then you'll also need access to VAG-COM or a trip to a VW main dealer to get the remotes coded to the CCM. Even second hand you could be looking at in excess of £200 to get all this done, there is however a cheaper option.

There are many universal remote central locking kits available, this guide details the fitting of the Toad RK30 which in my experience is the most reliable one available as I've been fitting these to mk.4s for many,many years now without any problems. This unit gives you a couple of two button remote fobs, with separate buttons for lock and unlock, and nothing else (what else would you need from remote locking?).

There are many cheaper units available on e-bay made in the far east, some are good and some aren't, but in my experience cheap is almost always false economy and will cost you more in the long run. When looking for one if you decide to go down this route as long as it has at least two central locking wires that give a negative pulse (this is the minimum spec of every add-on central locking system ever made) then this will work on a mk.4. Most will come with full six wire locking which will work in any car in the world, and some give you the option to buy them with OEM style remote key fobs that only need you to swap your keyblade(s) and transponder chip(s) over without the need for separate remote fobs.

If your car has any sort of OEM alarm (LED on top of the drivers door card and possibly ultrasonic sensors on the roof lining) then the locking connections MUST be made in the drivers door, if it doesn't have one then they can be made in either front door.

It's always easier as a point of reference to put it in the drivers door, so the first job will be to remove the drivers door card, as detailed HERE by those kind folks at the mighty VW Vortex,thanks guys!!!!

All the connections will be made in the loom that plugs into the multiplex unit (this controls central locking and windows), unplug it by placing a flat bladed screwdriver into the slot at the bottom of the connector as shown below and levering it downwards,the plug can now be pulled from the module.

4k9Gm2c.jpg


VERY carefully cut back the cloth tape that binds the loom, it is possible to cut through the insulation on some of the thinner wires and very rarely to short two wires together, so it may be a good idea to disconnect the car battery before you get to this stage.

I mount the remote locking unit as shown to keep the aerial as close to the top of the door as possible, and so give it the best possible range.

S8GWCFX.jpg


The loom can now be taped up to keep it all neat and tidy,keep the black/white and black/green separate but taped up for a reason we'll come to later.

The wires can now be connected as shown below for an RK30,for other units you will need to choose the option for negative polarity or pulse central locking.

RK30 wire colour​

Function​

Car wire colour or number​

RED​

+ 12 VOLTS SUPPLY​

THICK RED/WHITE​

BLACK​

GROUND​

THICK BROWN​

ORANGE​

IGNITION SENSE​

NOT NORMALLY CONNECTED​

RED/BLACK​

LOCKING POLARITY​

THICK BROWN​

RED/YELLOW​

LOCKING POLARITY​

THICK BROWN​

GREY/RED​

LOCK PULSE​

PIN # 24​

BLUE/RED​

UNLOCK PULSE​

PIN # 4​

BLUE/YELLOW​

NOT USED​

CUT OFF​

GREY/YELLOW​

NOT USED​

CUT OFF​

BLACK/WHITE​

RIGHT INDICATOR​

BLACK/WHITE​

BLACK/GREEN​

LEFT INDICATOR​

BLACK/GREEN​

BROWN/WHITE​

TIMED TOTAL CLOSE O/P​

PIN #24​

The brown/white wire goes negative for 20 seconds every time you press the lock button,this is meant to be used as a total close output on cars that have this facilty,connect it to the grey/red wire to give full total close when locking the vehicle.

(The orange ignition sense wire is only needed to program new remotes, so it's up to you if you connect it or not).

It would be a very good idea to make the connections using a soldering iron and not the Scotchlock style if possible, and tape the joint tightly with electrical insulating tape once it's cooled down.

OADPrzR.jpg


or3go5C.jpg


If the car already has an OEM alarm then there is no need to connect the indicator wires if the indicators flash when you lock it with the key, if not then the rubber boot needs to be pulled off at both ends as shown.The two taped wires should be fed down the plastic tube that protects the existing loom, and then through the boot and into the car.

kfcRXwE.jpg


I use the lid from a length of small plastic electrical trunking to get the wires through, once it's up into the space behind the fusebox tape it to the trunking lid and poke it through the space between the cluster and steering column until it appears in the space behind the switches. The switch blanks can be levered out using a plastic trim tool,or carefully with a flat bladed screwdriver with some thin cardboard wrapped around the blade to protect the finish on the plastic. The wires are connected as shown above, couldn't be easier as the colours are exactly the same.

That's about it, reconnect the battery and give it a test,the left hand button should lock the doors and the right hand one should unlock them, if you've got them the wrong way round it really doesn't matter too much with something simple like this, just remember which buttons you need to use, or swap them over if you feel the need.

If it works put the doorcard back on, and walk about grinning like a cat that's got the cream as you repeatedly push the button to lock and unlock it as you walk further and further away.

DISCLAIMER

ALTHOUGH THESE CARS ARE PRETTY WELL BULLETPROOF,THEY STILL AREN'T INDESTRUCTIBLE,SO IF YOU'RE IN ANY DOUBT ABOUT DOING ANYTHING I'VE WRITTEN ABOUT HERE THEN PLEASE,PLEASE SEEK THE HELP OF AN EXPERT.

IF YOU DO THIS WORK YOURSELF AND DAMAGE YOUR CAR THEN I WON'T BE HELD RESPONSIBLE,THIS IS ALL DONE ENTIRELY AT YOUR OWN RISK.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Great write up Chris, 2 questions though:

1. After reading up on these Toad kits, I see it can close the sunroof and windows on the mk4 Golf, for this to work, does it require extra wiring? or wil it work through the wiring guide you supplied?

2. Can you supply these Toad kits? as iv'e spotted a few prices online that are quite tempting.

Colin
Thanks,I've edited the guide to include the total close wire which some muppet forget to include when he wrote it,the muppet's proof reader hasd been sacked[:$].#

Are you interested in some kind of group buy,not had a look recently but know there are places selling them VERY cheaply?

Chris.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Really great write up Chris. Guide has inspired me to get this work done on my own car, which I'm doing my self tomorow (quit excited). Just a quick question. The part where you write

The brown/white wire goes negative for 20 seconds every time you press the lock button,this is meant to be used as a total close output on cars that have this facilty,connect it to the grey/red wire to give full total close when locking the vehicle.
Do you mean connect the total close wire instead of the lock wire (to pin 24), or in conjunction with it? As my (limited) understanding is, it would be better to connect the total close wire instead of the lock wire as it essentially does the same thing except hold the output for 20 seconds? Connecting both lock + total close wires would send 2 lock signals to the module right (and there's no need to send 2, just 1 and hold it)?
There's no reason why you have to connect both,but there may be times in ho weather when you don't want the windows closed,how about connecting the total close wire via a rocker switch to diasable it's function if needed?

Chris.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
All of these units are compulsory total close,so if it's connected it'll work every time

The boot release will only send out a pulse,probably about one second at the most,and unless you can extend the length of the lock and unlock pulses (unlikely on these basic units) then the only wire you can use for total close is errrmm..... the total close wire.

The rocker switch can go anywhere,maybe one of the centre dash switch blanks?

Tilt the vents upwards as far as they'll go,and you'll see a couple of Torx T20 screws that will need to be undone,there's also a couple of clips holding the top in place that can be released by pushing something thin and soft into the gap and carefully pulling on the while thing.

Chris.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
They have a function built in so they know when the motor has stalled,if you listen carefully you should be able to hear a relay click as it cuts off power to the motor(not audible on all cars though) when the window gets to the end of it's travel.

Chris.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
The black/white/green is the input from the indicator stalk that you don't want,and the black/green and black/white wires are the outputs that you do want.

There should only be one of each,if not quickly bridge across from the red/green to see which one makes the indicators light up.

Chris.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Hi!

I've found this excellent guide on how to fit the remote central locking. I managed to do the wiring needed, however it doesn't work. It unlocks fine by using the remote, but does not lock at all. Could you please confirm that pin#24 has to be used, it is a thin blue/yellow wire? I set it to negative polarity. It is not the product you described, it's a Rightclick product.

Any help is appreciated!

Andras
Pin #24 is lock on every mk.4 I've ever done this to,my car and most of them have that wire as a yellow/blue which I guess could be seen as blue/yellow?

What you may not have done is set the polarity on both lock and unlock,there should be a wire connected to ground for both of them.Of the total of six wires just for the central locking,two will be lock and unlock,two will be to set the polarity and two will not be used.

If you have grounded both of those wires,you need to check with a test light that there actually is a negative pulse of at least 1 second coming down the lock wire when you press the corresponding button on your remote.

Chris.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Thanks for your answer. Finally I managed to get it working, I used the same wire as you said from pin #24. It appeares to me that actually the order how you connect the console and the remote locking unit is very important. After a couple of tries it got the grip -- very strange.

One thing I could not use is the trunk release button (I do not really need it though). My unit has two jumpers through which you can set the length of the pulse, it sais 0.5s (release +) and 3.5s (release -) however measuring with the multimeter did not show any current. I guess the release - option has to be used as well, isn't it?

Thanks again for this great "howto", it was way more useful than the very short installation guide which came with the unit.
I am having the exact same problem with pin #24 while trying to install my rightclick - it unlocks but doesnt lock...can you please let me know exactly what you did to get around this? what do you mean by the order you connect the console to the remote locking? any help would be massively appreciated! other than that - wicked write up, really helped.
Forget about your remote unit for now by unplugging it,what happens if you ground pin #24.Does it now lock the doors?

Chris.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Excellent guide! It's inspired me to de-lock my car and install the remote kit. (Well... Combined with having my stereo nicked this week!
)

Just out of curiosity... what do the blue/yellow and grey/yellow wires do?
They're the normally closed side of each relay and would only be used with other central locking configurations,such as vacuum or direct motor drive.

Chris.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Chris,

My locking modules have died, the drivers side one doesnt let me unlock, too stiff to even contemplate moving it and it just spins round in the lock way.


Thought about getting this kit and I dont have an alarm.

Is this just a case of connecting the power, neg and locking and unlock pulses to the relevant wires on the CCM loom?
What locking has your car got,guessing it isn't OEM?

Chris.
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
Easy peezey and alll that,can be got working with just four connections....

+12 volts
Ground
Lock
Unlock

Plus indicators if you're feeling adventurous,should be able to get an RK30 for about £60-£70.

Chris.
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
Pretty poor about it being clamped down. Takes out a large chunk of the market.
Nothing poor about it when people like me have to earn a living from fitting stuff like that,so I'm all for it.Low risk stuff like remote locking or very basic alarms aren't a problem,but no one should ever sell any Thatcham approved products over the counter and not fitted to a car,if they do they're in breach of the conditions that allow them to fit such products.

You didn't look very hard did you?

Chris.
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
I see where you are coming from Chris, but I guess any confident person with car electrics could fit an alarm system or remote locking.

Granted it might not be able to get the thatcham approved certificate, why does it matter who fits it? I know how to change a tyre or change my oil, so what difference does it make if I pay someone to do it or spend the time doing it myself.,...if you know what I mean.
You wouldn't believe the mess I see every week that "confident" people make of their cars because they think they can save money by not paying someone like me to fit in in the first place,in most cases it ends up costing them more to have me put it right than if I'd fitted it in the first place.

I don't make the rules regarding who can and can't buy Thatcham approved products but I do agree with them,the insurance companies however do make these rules.If they're going to give someone an insurance discount for having one if these fitted to their car,they don't want any old smeghead getting hold of a brand new one and finding out what makes it tick and then putting his findings up for all the world to see on an internet message board.

Mk.4 Golfs/Boras are pretty well bullet proof in all respects,but there are a lot of other cars that aren't that only need you to probe one wire wrong looking for say the central locking wire and the ECU goes into a coma and is VERY difficul to wake up again,new Volvos are like this.

Chris.
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
Always dummy lock the drivers door when doing work like this by flicking the latch all the way into the closed position (two clicks),the drivers door won't lock when open but all the others will.

Chris.
 

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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
As I've never been able to find any decent photos showing how to solder,guess this means time for my next "how to"?

Don't cut the original wire but instead strip back about half an inch of the insulation,wrap the new wire tightly around it and then solder.

Chris.
 
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