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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Update - if anyone uses this do not drive around without your front valence for too long as i have suggested because you will destroy your wheel arch liners...which are ?20 each to replace

This How to includes: valences, bumper and side (door) strips, handles and wing mirrors.

Firstly it is important to have a good idea what you are going to do and prep everything first. When i did this i was doing all different stages on different parts at the same time and it gets complicated. Also this will stop you having to mask and re-mask everyday (if you are doing outside like me)

To colour code all of these parts you will need:

7/8 300ml cans of plastic primer (it was white for my colour car but if you buy from halfords they have a guide for what colour to use)

around 3/4 packs of 600/800 grit wet and dry paper (once again halford sell these with 4 sheets per pack

8 sets of paint and lacquer, i got mine from VW for ?11ish per set. It should take 1-2 days to turn up so bear this in mind when planning you work. also take you manual with you because the colour code is on a sticker inside.

T-20 torx screwdriver

masking tape (i used more than 100 metres but this was because of redoing it each day no doubt)

Firstly i suggest removing the valences and bumpers strips because you can still use the car with these off (doesn't look good i know but just wait and see)

The valences have torx screws inside the wheel arches and after that are basically just clipped on, just be firm and careful and they'll be easy enough.

The bumpers and also fairly easy, the front one i left on but this meant a lot of masking and not being able to drive the car round for a day or two. The back one is just clipped on...you can reach up from where you have removed the rear valence and feel the clips, try and force these out. They may need extra working out with a flat-head screwdriver from the outside but be careful. It is easy to damage your existing paintwork. I imagine the front is the same once you've re-moved the number plate.

For the handles proceed as follows:

Remove the plastic lock cover (front door)/ blanking cap (back door).

Open the particular door then find the hole in the side of the door, in the front doors in it obvious but in the back doors it is covered with parts of the door seal (you will notice the curvy bit). Inside this hole will be a large gold coloured torx screw (t-20 size) un-screw this, it has been recommended several times that it takes 6-7 turns but for me it was more so after 7 turns i was very careful and kept the pressure on the screw so it would not fall down inside the door. I sat on the ground and wedged the door between my knees. With my right hand i kept gradually unscrewing and with my left hand i wiggled the lock barrel(front door)/dummy lock(back door) and also held the door handle open. Eventually the lock/dummy will come out and you can release the handle. I rescrewed the screw a little just to make sure it wasn't gonna fall. Now the lock/dummy is out of the way you can clip out the cable which actually opens the car which is attached to the handle. Don't worry it won't ping back out of reach (or shouldn't do anyway). After all this you should be able to get the handle out with some persuasion.

Now you have the handles and plastic caps. When replacing i forgot to count the turns so i kept screwing... eventually you'll hear a sharp twang, this sound dodgy but my door were all fine afterwards. Also the door release cable can be repositioned inside the handle to make the door easier to open.

For the wing mirrors unclip the top (already coloured part) and use a posi-drive screwdriver to unscrew the two screws in the bottom plastic part. This should come out with some wiggling.

The side strips (on the doors) i left on because the are stuck on the same as the letters and numbers on the hatch and after debadging i knew i didn't want to muck about taking them off. They should have a decent gap behind them for masking anyway.

You should now have all of you parts off the car. Do this in whatever order you like but i would remove and prep non-critical parts (bumpers/valences) first, then the handles and mirrors parts just before you are going to start spraying.

Prep work.

To save yourself some serious arm ache and waste of wet and dry paper sanding down first i would actually clean the parts off then give them three coats of primer first. Leave 15 mins in between coats then at least a few hours if not 24 hours before starting sanding. The principal is the the primer has filled the gaps in between the stipple effect and so when you sand down now you are only sanding soft paint rather than hard plastic but you still get the smoothness. Although this will take more primer, if you bought the amount listed above you should be alright.

When all parts have been sprayed and smoothed ( make sure they are really smooth because any residual stipple effect/roughness will ruin the metallic effect...i should know i had to re-do the whole front valence) i would then give them another 2-3 coaats and leave a few hours.

Now we can get down to some actual colours rather than just boring white on black plastic and elbow grease.

Get everything ready to go and choose a very, very wind-free day or a well ventilated garage/workshop. This applies for the primer also of course but is very important with the actual colours going on.

Like the primer you need to give your parts three coats. And also again leave 15 mins between coats. Once you have an even finish leave for 30-45 mins before applying the Lacquer (this adds the protection and metallic effect).

The lacquer is the same again, three coats with 15 mins between each. After the last coat has gone on leave for a few hours to a day before attempting replacing on the car.

Obviously be careful when replacing on the car because this is you very own hard work.

Basically all the parts can be replaced using the reverse of the above removal instructions.

Once it is all back on your car stand back and enjoy just like i did when i thought 'I've got a better looking car for less than half the spray-shop quoted and i've gained so much experience and confidence in working on my car'

Hope this help some people!!
 

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WOW! that is some write-up and I can't even convince myself to spray my rear VW bagde let alone the whole valence...

How much would you say it costs? as i can get the bodyshop to do my valences for ?150ish total (inc bumper respray)...
 

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Great write up but you will never DIY spray body parts anywhere near as good as a professional bodyshop would.

Rear emblem is one thing but the bumper/valances are something else.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Cheers guys. i reckon it cost me around £130-150. thats for everything...bumpers, handles, valences, wing mirrors, side strips. my local spray shop quoted me £250 plus i'd loose my car for 3 days. this way it came out well enough for me, i only lost use of car for a few hours at a time 2 or 3 days in a row and i know exactly what to do if this sort of thing needs to be done in future. saying that i wouldn't attempt major body panels that are in plain sight. the valences were the biggest part of my job and they are quite a bit out of view
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
need to get a camera and hosting unfortunately. was thinking of this today actually. i may be able to get access to a camera just gotta sort out gettiung pics online. haven't done this in a while so could be week or two.

if you can take my word for it, it has come up really well. looks such a different car after this
 

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Great how-to, very impressed. I wish people would stop giving me ideas though! [;)][:D]

Quote: posted by GreenBeast on 16/04/2004 23:38:28

To colour code all of these parts you will need:

7/8 300ml cans of plastic primer (it was white for my colour car but if you buy from halfords they have a guide for what colour to use)

8 sets of paint and lacquer, i got mine from VW for ?11ish per set. It should take 1-2 days to turn up so bear this in mind when planning you work. also take you manual with you because the colour code is on a sticker inside.

How much primer & paint/lacquer would you recommend getting just to do the door strips and bumper strips?

Those seem the easiest to do, so thinking of doing that myself & getting the paintshop to do the rest (being quoted ?500 for door strips, bump strips (including one scuffed one), valances, bumper respray, stripping my rear door & nearside rear quarterpanel and repainting/lacquering (fixing a previous shoddy job which is now peeling). So understandably I would like to do some by myself to save costs.

Firstly i suggest removing the valences and bumpers strips because you can still use the car with these off (doesn't look good i know but just wait and see)

The bumpers and also fairly easy, the front one i left on but this meant a lot of masking and not being able to drive the car round for a day or two. The back one is just clipped on...you can reach up from where you have removed the rear valence and feel the clips, try and force these out. They may need extra working out with a flat-head screwdriver from the outside but be careful. It is easy to damage your existing paintwork. I imagine the front is the same once you've re-moved the number plate.

So you took the whole bumper off to do the bump strips? -Isn't it possible to remove the strips only, or is it the same hassle as the door strips?

I've seen a good how-to for coding the rear emblem as well (http://people.cornell.edu/pages/dal29/gticolormatchemblem.html), but does anybody know how to do the front one (incl removal)??? I asked the paintshop (local guy) if he could do it and he said no [?][!]
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
right... i reckon 3/4 cans of primer (?15-?20) and 3/4 sets of paint and lacquer (?33-?44ish)

i didn't remove the whole bumpers...i took the rear bumper strips out cos they are small and fairly easy. i left the front one on but next time i'd remove it...only problem is although you can drive like this, it is the bumper strip that has the holes for the license plate...so you may wanna think about that too.

the door strips are definately best left on because of the hassle of removing them and getting them back on straight. because they are attached in a simliar way to the rear VW badge they will be awkward to remove. but i found that, because of the bit of padding behind them, you can slide the masking tape down behind the strip a few mm thus making sure of no overspray on the door.

hope that helps...

Nick
 

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Quote: posted by Cat1.4 on 31/08/2004 11:57:14

Quote: posted by GreenBeast on 16/04/2004 23:38:28

To colour code all of these parts you will need:

7/8 300ml cans of plastic primer (it was white for my colour car but if you buy from halfords they have a guide for what colour to use)

8 sets of paint and lacquer, i got mine from VW for ?11ish per set. It should take 1-2 days to turn up so bear this in mind when planning you work. also take you manual with you because the colour code is on a sticker inside.

How much primer & paint/lacquer would you recommend getting just to do the door strips and bumper strips?

So you took the whole bumper off to do the bump strips? -Isn't it possible to remove the strips only, or is it the same hassle as the door strips?

Hello Cat,

I have also colour coded my car, so I should be able to answer your questions.

To do the rear strips, all door strips and the front strip I used 6 paint sets I think. so at ?11 each that's ?66. I think I used two cans for the rear, two cans for the sides and two cans for the front.

Yes, it is possible to take just the strips off and leave the bumper on, as this is what I did. I used a small plastic ice scraper to prise the strips out of the bumper. I did this very carefully and did not damage any of the paintwork on the bumper. I also removed the side strips on my car. Whether this was the best way to do it, I'm not sure. I didn't like the idea of sanding and painting something while it was still on my car. I removed them using debadging methods (i.e. heating them up and using dental floss to cut the adhesive). Then I had the problem of removing the adhesive residue from the side of my car using white spirit. I also had the bigger problem of removing the adhesive from the back of the strips. This literally took a whole day to do. Now that my strips are back on I'm sure the results are much the same.

HTH [:D]
 

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Quote: posted by GreenBeast on 31/08/2004 15:25:10

right... i reckon 3/4 cans of primer (?15-?20) and 3/4 sets of paint and lacquer (?33-?44ish)

i didn't remove the whole bumpers...i took the rear bumper strips out cos they are small and fairly easy. i left the front one on but next time i'd remove it...only problem is although you can drive like this, it is the bumper strip that has the holes for the license plate...so you may wanna think about that too.

the door strips are definately best left on because of the hassle of removing them and getting them back on straight. because they are attached in a simliar way to the rear VW badge they will be awkward to remove. but i found that, because of the bit of padding behind them, you can slide the masking tape down behind the strip a few mm thus making sure of no overspray on the door.

hope that helps...

Nick

Thanks a lot for the reply, maybe it was just me - but I really wasnt sure what you meant about the bumper strips.

Not sure how much this'll actually save me to be honest - estimating generously at ?66+, the paintshop would still need to do my doorhandles, valances, wing mirrors. Given that they quoted ?200 for the full job, I'm not sure they'll half that (the only way i'm going to save really) for being left the harder bits [:)]

Then I'll still need to add on ?200 for stripping the rear and another ?100 for the bumper [V]
 

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Quote: posted by Rye on 31/08/2004 15:34:21

Now that my strips are back on I'm sure the results are much the same.

Thanks for the hint! I'm of the same opinion about leaving the strips on the car, but at the end of the day if it looks the same & save lots of hassle & think I'd rather be careful (and mask well [:D])
 

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i must say after seeing greenbeasts car i didnt notice that the strips were left on when sprayed. although i did not know that this was the case so didnt look that close. need to see your car again green :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
yeah the side strips came out pretty much the best out of all the parts actually...probably cos they are easy to rub down and get smooth...thats the key!
 

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Hi guys,

Great 'How To' bud. Nice and comprehensive. I was just wondering what sort of material your side strips were? Mine are rubbery plasticy ish. Ive been told i need to buy the plastic ones if i wanted to colour code them? What are your thoughts?
 

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so wierd that i accidently came across this post, i have been thinking of doing this for a while and was worried about the rough plastic leaving a rubbish finish. but now i know to over do the primer so it is left smooth after sanding, this has helped alot. i'll try it out next week, fingers crossed! luckilt i just won a rear valance for 98p and £7 postage on ebay so at least i dont have to ruin the one on the car!
 
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