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634 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Was driving home & pressed my Rear Window Washer & noticed Nothing was working so when i got home i had a little look..

Noticed behind the Passenger Side the Roof Lining was Damp..

Its behind the Head Rest Roof lining to where it meets the Tailgate & also the Pillar behind the was aslo damp..

Was working until the Cold weather..

Is there a Guide to how to tackle this or has anyone got any tips how to fix this..


127 Posts
Strip off the tailgate cover and follow it back, mine has forced its self off several times and its held on with several tie wraps, I think there are screws in the handles of the tail gate, remove them and it will pop off, easy job tbh, probably just frozen, if not then remove the head lining slightly and trace it back, good luck.

634 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Just found this..

OK this is what I can remember of the process (was a couple of days ago..). It now works I am pleased to say !

Fixing a non washing rear wash wipe (VW Golf mk4 5 door)


NB My washer bottle was full (same supply for front and rear) - the front washed but not the back (wiped only). I mentioned this to the garage when it was in for a service and they noticed a "drip mark" in the rear near side (passenger side) C pillar (back pillar of the car). They didn't attempt to fix so thought I would have a go..


T15 torx (parcel shelf rest)

10mm socket (parcel shelf rest)

11/16 socket (seatbelt mount)

1. Take out spare tyre / tools

2. Pull off the plastic trim at the back of the boot (about 6 clips, pull off carefully)

3. Take off the piece of roof headlining trim (by the rear hatch). Be careful..easy to snap tabs on it's end way is to pull it down in the middle (so it's arched) and pull out one of the sides, then the other IMHO. (and put it back like this afterwards)

Location of the clips, plus "tabs" at the end:

4. Pull away the rubber seal around hatch opening, plus where the rear door shuts

5. Open side flap in the left hand side of boot (first aid kit storage)

6. Undo the 2 bolts holding the parcel shelf rest (using 10mm socket)

7. Undo the torx bolt that also holds the parcel shelf rest (probably tucked behind carpet)

8. Undo the seatbelt bolt (flick up the plastic cover to get at it). Remove the bolt, pull the seatbelt out the way

9. Unclip the C pillar trim from the parcel shelf rest, pull parcel shelf rest out of the way (I did not remove completely, appears to be fixed by the back door / wheel arch)

10. Pull off the C pillar trim (carefully else you will snap the clips)

Location of the C pillar clips / fasteners:

11. Prise back the headlining to reveal the pipework, and hopefully where it has come apart...

12. I stuck some (green) tape around it, which might stop it coming apart again, tho' they seemed to fit back snugly.

13. Reverse the above to put back together basically !

NB - My C pillar sound proofing / insulation was soggy, so left to dry for a day or two on a radiator.

NB2 - Be sure to put the trim around the seatbelt back correctly (see other side of the car if you need to). Don't want it chaffing I'd guess you should really have the correct torque when putting the bolt back...

NB3 - If you can't see the leak guess could get a willing assistant to squirt the washer whilst you look..but beware there are lots of wires tucked away in that C pillar...

Good Luck !

634 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Also found this..

This is the guide from which is down at the moment

Rear Screen Washer Repair

A common problem on the Mk 4 Golf is water leak from the rear screen washer system. More often that not, this problem manifests itself within the tailgate and causes water to be directed onto the electrical switch within the tailgate lock mechanism. The result of this problem is that reduced flow may be seen at the washer nozzle, and the 'tailgate open' warning light may appear on the dashboard whilst driving. In the worst case, the alarm system can be fooled into thinking that the tailgate is actually open thus preventing the central locking system from activating to lock the car, or causing false triggering of the alarm off once the car is locked.

The problem area within the tailgate is the connection between a flexible piece of washer hose and a fixed fitting on the end of the wiper motor shaft, through which the washer water is fed. A VW dealer is likely to declare that an 'incorrect screenwash additive' has been used in the system previously, and this has resulted in a blockage of the washer jet causing the pipe to be blown off. However, in truth it is just a weak design that cannot cope with the high pressure and flow of the VW washer pump particularly if the nozzle freezes during winter.

To access the washer pipe connection, first you will need to remove the internal trim panel covering the lower half of the tailgate. This panel is retained by one screw inside each of the two internal moulded handles on the panel, and a series of trim spring clips that must be prised away by pulling the panel away from the bodywork.

Once the main body of the panel is loosened, care must be taken to release the panel at each end where it joins the internal grey (or beige) screen surround.

Once the internal panel is removed, it will be clear if the washer pipe has been leaking by the dampness or blue coloration of the fibre sound insulation that lines the trim panel. The plastic connector that is part of the end of the washer pipe should also be clearly visible, either connected loosely to the wiper motor or hanging loose on the end of the pipe.

Repair #1

A simple job may be to simply reconnect the pipe to the wiper assembly, but this is likely to be only a temporary solution as the problem may reoccur in the future. If you choose to retain the VW connector then inspect it closely to ensure that it is not cracked and that it clips back onto the motor firmly.

On my car the connector was cracked so it would never seal correctly and an alternative repair was necessary.

Repair #2

If the pipe connector is damaged, or you simply don't trust it to not leak in the future, here is a simple repair solution to remove the weak connector.

Firstly, buy a length of 3/8" dia windscreen washer pipe from your local motor factors. You will only need a length of approximately 50mm for this repair, but it is cheap even if you have to buy a 8' long pack from Halfords. You will also need a sharp Stanley knife, a couple of small cable ties and a mug of boiling water.

Chop off the VW pipe connector from the washer pipe, but try to retain a small section of the enlarged diameter section of pipe where it was moulded onto the back of the connector. Cut a length of approximately 50mm from the new washer pipe and place it in the hot water for a minute or so until it softens. Using a little washing up liquid if necessary, push the new pipe over the outside of the old pipe as far as it will go whilst retaining at least 15mm of new pipe beyond the end of the old pipe.

Reheat the end of the new pipe and then push it over the fitting on the wiper motor. Wrap a cable tie around each end of the new pipe for additional security, and if necessary use another cable tie to hold the washer pipe against the nearby wiper motor wiring loom to prevent any kinking of the new pipe.

If the inside of the tailgate is wet from previous washer pipe leakage then use an electric hairdryer to dry the lock mechanism out thoroughly before reassembly.

Squirt some WD40 or similar water dispersant onto the back of the tailgate lock and switch assembly, to ensure that any residual moisture does not find its way into the switch.

Reassemble the interior trim, taking care to align the trim clips with the holes in the tailgate where possible. If the sound deadening panel is wet from the leaking washer pipe then allow it to dry out fully before reassembly to prevent any alarm problems.

Now enjoy the new found pressure in the rear washer system and marvel at how water from the rear washer can now spray onto your front windscreen!

Repair #3

An alternative symptom of a failed rear screen washer can be a break in the feed tube inside the wiper motor assembly, which allows the washer jet to rotate with the wiper arm as described below by Tim Price:

.....The tube that passes through the motor and carries the wash fluid is made from brass and I have found that water collects in the collar that holds the brass tube (near to the jet). The collar is made from alloy/steel and corrodes over time. The corrosion eventually holds the brass pipe at the jet end and causes it to twist through 90 degrees when the wiper is activated (I saw this happening). Before long the brass pipe shears off and water starts wee weeing out as described.

The solution is to dismantle and remove the old pipe, drill out the collar to a more generous dimension (7mm). Then you get a similar diameter brass tube (B&Q) and use that, bending through 90 degrees and following the path of the old tube, connect up and you are away. It is a good idea to grease the collar that supports the tube.

A repair kit is also available from VW for the pipe
- Part number 8L0 998 711, this is for motor part number 1J6 955 711 G only


648 Posts
I've just took my boot panel off to have a small dent knocked out.

Thought i'd check the washer pipe while I was there as every other mk4 Ive had has leaked there.

Well, Looks like vw changed the pipe on the later mk4's, can't see this falling off so easily!

Posted Image

I hope the rest of the joins are the same!
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