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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hi guys hope all of you are well and have had a nice weekend.

Anyway i need your help please guys on here, i have a golf mk4 gt tdi 130 standard not chipped or modifyed.

The cars had a cambelt and water pump change around 2,000 miles ago, as soon as i drove the car i noticed a rattling noise from 1,100 to 1,2000 rpm, and was notifyied by the mechnic that my undertray needs to be replaced, and the problem will be cured.

Anyway i took my car to a bodyshop, to get the two part section of the undertray from vw, they screwed on the new one, and the problems still there.

Its a rattle nosie, can't really put my finger on it, likes somethings missing or plastic related.

So yesterday, as it was saturday i had time on my hands, i noticed the airbox was loose, so bolted it tighter and placed a washer, so its secure now, still got the problem.

I checked all the splash guards on the car, if they are all screwed on, and they are.

Also, when i got my cambelt replaced, the performance of my car was very quick, when i reached 1,000 miles the performance has dropped, i hear less turbo whistle, does not pull harder at 2,000 to 3,000 rpm.

I have noticed that when going round roundabouts, the turbo whistle cuts off then as soon i step off the gas, it comes back on.

I was testing the rattle from cold, let the car warmup for 6 minutes, then was revving from 1,1000 to 2,000 rpm and could and see smoke smell coming in my car interior, which worried me alot.

The mechnic has done a good job i believe, all genuine vw parts used as well.

Please guys can you help me on this matter please, its really getting me worried, i could not sleep last night, because i was trying to sort the problem out for 2 hours yesterday.

Thankyou for reading my long message, and i hope you guys can help me please.
 

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sounds like its not timed up properly, also bit funy that on the thread it says posted at 09:25, its only just gone 9 lol!
 

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sounds like its not timed up properly, also bit funy that on the thread it says posted at 09:25, its only just gone 9 lol!
Woah.. you're posting from the future too!

Can you hear where the noise is coming from in the engine? If it's coming from the timing belt area it could well be the belt making the noise.

It sounds like it'll be a belt related noise anyway.

Hope someone else can give you a conclusive answer!
 

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No point worrying. So make a cup of tea and think the problem through logically.

OK. You have identified that the noise arises between 1,100-2,000 RPM. So now you need to home in on where/what is causing the noise. A few simple tests/checks should help narrow the field, even if it is necessary to get a garage to fix the problem.

Does the noise occur when stationary? - in which case, most bodywork related noises (like a loose undertray) are probably ruled out.

Does the noise arise only when the car is moving and disappears when stationary? - in which case look for loose stuff. Wheelnuts, undertrays, wheel arch liners etc. Likewise check all engine ancilliarys are secure - engine cover, cam belt cover and air cleaner, and the ducting from MAF/air filter to turbo is properly fitted!

Does the noise level alter/increase if you turn on large electrical loads - heated screen/seats? - if so check if the noise is coming from the alternator.

Does the noise stop if you depress the clutch? - if so it may be the clutch release bearing/gearbox layshaft

Does the noise disappear when engine is above 2000RPM?
- Suggests the cam belt cover or a belt or tensioner has been re-fitted incorrectly and at certain rev ranges the belt is loose enough to rub.

To check for/confirm the noise source you can use a long screwdriver as a basic stethoscope. However this will mean working in the engine bay with the engine running. So make sure hair and clothes can't get caught in pulleys, belts etc!
Carefully place the end of the screwdriver against the side of the component you wish to check and rest your ear against the handle.

Good luck and let us know how you get on.

(Thanks its a very pleasant weekend here in the Alps.)
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hi guys thanks for your all your support, speacially skimad4x4 for his long input of description, sorry guys if that is a offense, i do not mean nothing by it.

All it is my cars my pride and joy, my grandmother brought me this car many years back, but sadly passed away, so my car in question means everything in the world to me, as i use to drive her in the country every sunday for fresh air, and she loved it.

Being totally honest with you, last year the car was involved in a front end crash, driver side, so was in the bodyshop approved by my insurance to get the work done, but took longer than normal.

Anyway when i had my new cambelt and waterpump replaced by my mechanic, the mechanic pointed out that this side has had a smash, as the parallel mount is broken, along with the undertray, all needs to be replaced.

The meachnic said the nosie will be gone, when you replace the new undertray, he resurred me that, nothing to worry about.

As this was accident related from the accident i contacted my insurer and they took the car in the bodyshop, not on a trailor they drove the car, which i was not to keen on, had felling they will trash it, or may be wrong.

Anyway, when the car came back, they said to me the undertray has been replaced and pareell maount has all be done, but the undertary does not look new, i went half nine this morning under the car to examine the work, a couple of screws are missing, but i have a feeling that may not be the problem.

When the car was brought back from the bodyshop by the driver, before the performance was fast, but now i am returning 40 mpg on a motorway, and thats not even pushing the car to a extent, my mpg has gone with the performance.

Also i get a oil smell like from the car, only on the front, when i was playing with it yesterday along 1,000rpm to 1,2000 rpm, i could see smoke entering in my air vents, only a little bit but it was strong, even my dad could smell it.

I do believe my temperature sensor needs replacing as it never hits at 90 degress, goes up and down.

The noise does disappear after 2,ooo rpm, its below, i hope its not cambelt related as the mechanic resurred me the timing is spot on.

Even when i rev the car at 1,100 rpm to 1,200 rpm the noise is still there stationary but less, but not as much, but when driving the car is nosier.

But when i drive the car and do not the revs drop below 1,200 rpm in gears then the noise is not there, its weird, i have woken up 7;00 this morning trying to think, then opened the bonnet to see what it could be.

I have noticed once again, a couple of front screws are missing from the undertray, but i don't think that is the case.

The body shop have used the old mounting screws, so no new screws used.

Oh i forgot the noise level does not alter when aircon on or heated seats on, its the same constant sound.

But once again, i am going to invesgate futher today and will post back, and any recommendations would be very helpful.

Guys have a great day from me, i love to meet you folks one day in the kent area if possible if you live there, or at shows or meets, i would like to show my face and to get to know new people.

Kind regards,

Trip tdi
 

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Not sure I've fully understood this but are you saying the problem started when the garage replaced the cambelt and you told them straight away? If so, it seems that they have caused the problem and, in my mind, should rectify the issue free of charge.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
well i had a noisy tensioner before hand on the auxiliary belt, so could hear more of the tensioner then than rattle, so hard to say really.

so i got the cambelt changed along with the waterpump and the auxiliary belt and tensioner.

I did notcie the noise staright afterwards when i drove the car, and did mention the noise, but the mechnic told me and resurred its my broken undertray, but thats been replaced and noise is still there.

I hope its not cambelt related, as i do not know where i stand, the car was only done recently and has covered 2,000 miles since.

I am going to take my car to a tyre fitting garage now to get the car in the air, to see if the undertray is corrected securely, and will report back.
 

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Have a look at the exhaust mounts. They might have broken, which could be the source of the rattle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
they are secure checked those yesterday.

Something underneath the engine, even took the engine cover off to check and drove the car, made no difference, even checked the manifold for movement, but any any.

The only adjustment i did make is to my air box, the seal was perished slightly so placed a washer with a clip, alot more secure, made no difference.

and one other thing when i switch my car off i get a air sound escaping from the air box, is that normal, plus with the oil fuel smell, could someone please try it on theres and reprt back please.

Right now i am taking my car on a ramp in a tyre garage to investigate where the rattling may come from, hope i diagnose the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
ok i went to the local tyre fitter, put the car on the ramp, the bodyshop only replaced the side mount, but the whole undertray.

My main concern was the performance of the car, i was returning 34 mpg on the motorway, unpluged the maf sensor, power was low, so plugged it back in, and gave some serious boot on the highway, it was quicker then the performance dropped, not limp mode, just slow turbo response.

When i had the cambelt done the car flew, so much power, it like i had it from day one, but when the bodyshop drove my car and fillled it with diesel, the car instantly felt less responsive.

i know much fuel temperature gauge does not hit at 90 degrees, could that be the problem, but when the car went in for a cambelt change the temperature sensor was faulty anyway.

Just need your help on this one please, i might need to take that car back to where i got the cambelt change from, can the teeth come out when driving the car hard, not to sure what the bodyshop have done to the car.
 

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when i got my car i noticed a very slight rattle when driving, ever so slight but definitly something, sounded as if it was coming from behind the dash/cockpit area.

Never figured it out until last week when i rested my hand on the handbrake when driving and i touched the button at the top and realised it was slightly loose as it made a tapping noise when i touched it.

i flicked it a few times and sure enough the noise sounded very familiar. i drove a bit harder over a few bumps and cats eyes to emphasise the noise then held my finger against the button still going over the bumps, and it stopped!!

Sounds so simple but it may be worth a try? sorry i cant help with the smoke though and it wouldnt happen when stationary but its a thought. Good luck with this mate
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
my undertray was done by the bodyshop through insurance, but the bodyshop refered they had replaced my undertray, but they have not, hence i took my car to a local car garage and placed on a rump, and the only work i can see is the front side paralmount changed, comes in two sections.

Might be worth ringing vw, or going to a local scrap yard to see if they have one second hand, i believe ebay sell them.

But my main issue now is i am returning 40 mpg altogether, even went to halfords yesterday to purchase milllers eco power, the 10 doze version to see if it will make a difference, but it has not.

Would anyone know what the performance issue could be, the turbo spins, not as loud, i even disconnected the maf to see of it makes a difference, but does not.

What mpg do you guys have on your cars, the car in question is a golf mk4 gt tdi 130, stanard so its not chipped, mixed driving plus extra urban please.

Would be very greatful if anyone can tell me please, would help me, just had my timing done on my car 2,000 miles ago with a waterpump change.

I have even noticed the coolant rises when hot by a quarter and thats only with an hours driving, is that normal, hen cold it drops, just hoping my timing is not out.

Also collant sensor, would this affect my performance and fuel econmy guys.

Sorry for this long post but input and help would rest my mind at ease.

Thankyou, have a great day from me,
 

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best thing to do is get it scanned via vag-com where abouts are you as there maybe someone local who has it that may scan it for you, also if i've read it right the power was down after the bodyshop drove it, have they not put petrol in it instead of diesel?

hope this is of some help

Ian
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
yeah i was thinking the same as well, i know they topped the car up with 10 to 15 pounds worth of fuel, i hope they did not place petrol in it, i sure the engine would of died on them, i preety sure they used fuel such as diesel but have have been in there container the bodyshop, which may have been decomtaminated.

Straight away when i drove the car it has less power delivery, when i had the camblet done the car flew like mad, power stuck to the road, alot of cars could not keep up with me.

I was shocked even a 60 plate seat ibiza was racing me and had me easily last week, i thought the engine could dod with a clear out, plus a citreon c4 had me as well, i could not keep up, foot to the floor, hence why i purchused a fule treatment, millers, but has not solved my performnce issue or mpg.

i rang vw today, they said to me, 9 out of 10 if the timing is wrong on a pd engine it would not start, it has always started since i have had the camblet done.

Even rand opieoils for there advice, they confirmed decomintated would not afffect performance, could try the millers and see if it will clean the system.

the boost on the tturbo seems flat, i drive at 2,000 to 3,000 rpm where the boost is, but i swear 1.4 are having me on the road, and i know thats not normal.

I can hear the turbo spin, when going round roundabouts it stops the noise then comes back on when i step on the gas, i keep my window open to hear the noise.

Cheacked the incooler pipe to see if everything is in contact, and it is.

i live near bluewater in kent greenhithe so anyone with vag.com would be excellent.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
guys update, took my car to a local tyre fitter to see how the undertray and mount has been fitted, all looks fine, plus with intercoller pipe.

anyway because i was more concerned about my rattlng noise, i noticed i dropped fuel comsumption on the car, by 8 mpg.

I use to get 52 mpg on the motorway, at 65 to 70 mph on a long run, anyway i took my car to the mechnic who fitted my timing bely, did not check it but said to me the timing is spot on, and he put a vag com port in my car and it showed airmasss flow meter fault, i said to him for 5 seconds i dissconnected the air mass flow meter to see if that was the problem, when i disconnected the plug the performance was flat, so plugged back in, and he said to me you should not have done that, because it faults as a air mass flow meter problem, anyway he cleared the error drove the car with the laptop and said everything fine.

Becasue the error code has been deleted and the air mass flow meter was faulty would it show on the vag com machine again.

Would need your help on this guys, sorry for this long post, i even tryed double dose of the milllers eco power diesel to see of that would make a difference but it did not make no difference, i was shocked because people rave about this product big times.

On the motoroway it pulls hard in 5th to 6th gear, but the 2nd gear seems flat along with the first gear, even forth gear seems flat from time to time.

I was surprised the vag com machine did not pick my collant sensor issue, because level on the display goes up and down, i was surprised by that.

Does coolant sensor have affect on the car running plus mpg and boost of the turbo.

Thanks guys for reading, i wish you can help me on this one please.

have a fab week from me.
 

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[:^)]

So whats the problem?? the rattle, the performance, the temp guage, the timing,the fuel consumption.....im confused, to much hyper info going on here!
 
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