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Golfy Wagon
Golfy Wagon
So I've had my wagon for just over a year. 2001 Golf Estate 1.9tdi PD 115 AJM, 110k when bought, now on 145K.
It's a base model with winter pack and not much else...has a sunroof and no air con. Central locking but not remote etc.
What I've done in the past year:
Oil and filters changed every 5-6K
Fuel filter at 20k intervals
Only use BP Ultimate Diesel
Timing belt and pump replaced
Fleabay remote central locking kit fitted with total closure - thanks to imagewerx for the guide and the headsup on the wrong wiring diagram that comes with the kit
Avus wheels? Painted satin black
Headlight candles swapped for Osram Nightbreakers
Sidelight bulbs replaced with 10w halogen bulbs = bright as fook
Started retrimming interior pillar trims in black faux suede - ongoing
In between times, clayed and machine polished - love doing this
TT wishbone bushes installed
Rear beam polybushed
Caked EGR cleaned
Mr Muscle cleaned turbo
Silicone vac lines
New rear discs and pads
Yeah, I think that's it so far... So today, I took delivery of a Vogtland -40mm spring and shock kit. I've gathered up all new bolts/nuts for the swap. New front top mounts and bump stops (oe sport ones). Ball joints. Rear top mounts were replaced before I bought the car along with new shocks so these should be ok, no drama if they need replaced.
With the exception of the timing belt, I do all the work myself...on the driveway with just a trolley jack and axle stands. I have a reasonable tool kit which has been built up as needed over the past 25 odd years. I'm not a mechanic but I'm not afraid to get my hands dirty....I just work out what I need to do, why I need to do it and with the help of this forum and some random searchage on t'internet, I get a fair idea of what to expect and potential issues that might pop up along the way.
Soooo, as she sits today
And what arrived today which I got from ze faazerland for under £200 delivered
Up tomorrow, out for my morning walk...I had a heart attack at 43 (2 years ago) so I need to keep the blood moving lol. Then back home and I'll get stuck in. I will try to take a few pics of the swap but I do tend to just crack on and get done tbh.
Any questions or suggestions, fire them at me.
So I've had my wagon for just over a year. 2001 Golf Estate 1.9tdi PD 115 AJM, 110k when bought, now on 145K.
It's a base model with winter pack and not much else...has a sunroof and no air con. Central locking but not remote etc.
What I've done in the past year:
Oil and filters changed every 5-6K
Fuel filter at 20k intervals
Only use BP Ultimate Diesel
Timing belt and pump replaced
Fleabay remote central locking kit fitted with total closure - thanks to imagewerx for the guide and the headsup on the wrong wiring diagram that comes with the kit
Avus wheels? Painted satin black
Headlight candles swapped for Osram Nightbreakers
Sidelight bulbs replaced with 10w halogen bulbs = bright as fook
Started retrimming interior pillar trims in black faux suede - ongoing
In between times, clayed and machine polished - love doing this
TT wishbone bushes installed
Rear beam polybushed
Caked EGR cleaned
Mr Muscle cleaned turbo
Silicone vac lines
New rear discs and pads
Yeah, I think that's it so far... So today, I took delivery of a Vogtland -40mm spring and shock kit. I've gathered up all new bolts/nuts for the swap. New front top mounts and bump stops (oe sport ones). Ball joints. Rear top mounts were replaced before I bought the car along with new shocks so these should be ok, no drama if they need replaced.
With the exception of the timing belt, I do all the work myself...on the driveway with just a trolley jack and axle stands. I have a reasonable tool kit which has been built up as needed over the past 25 odd years. I'm not a mechanic but I'm not afraid to get my hands dirty....I just work out what I need to do, why I need to do it and with the help of this forum and some random searchage on t'internet, I get a fair idea of what to expect and potential issues that might pop up along the way.
Soooo, as she sits today
And what arrived today which I got from ze faazerland for under £200 delivered
Up tomorrow, out for my morning walk...I had a heart attack at 43 (2 years ago) so I need to keep the blood moving lol. Then back home and I'll get stuck in. I will try to take a few pics of the swap but I do tend to just crack on and get done tbh.
Any questions or suggestions, fire them at me.
3
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Fitted the kit today. Not a swift operation I'll say that much. Offside wasn't too bad, nearside...sigh, mucho hassle and the swear box is overflowing. Used a spreader to open the carrier to get the shock in but this
broke off when it was almost home. I know it's there to locate the shock in the right place but will it cause any issues if it's not there?
Anyway, took it for a wee drive and yes, it's bumpy, I was expecting that but it feels a lot more stable. No wallowing about and no dive or lift when braking and accelerating.
I'll give it a wash tomorrow and pop a few pics up. It's not slammed and there's still a big arch gap but I wasn't after slammage....I'm too old for that sh|t now.
One other thing that surprised me was the matched shocks were the same length at the originals, I thought they might have been shorter. Any thoughts on the broken bit appreciated.
broke off when it was almost home. I know it's there to locate the shock in the right place but will it cause any issues if it's not there?
Anyway, took it for a wee drive and yes, it's bumpy, I was expecting that but it feels a lot more stable. No wallowing about and no dive or lift when braking and accelerating.
I'll give it a wash tomorrow and pop a few pics up. It's not slammed and there's still a big arch gap but I wasn't after slammage....I'm too old for that sh|t now.
One other thing that surprised me was the matched shocks were the same length at the originals, I thought they might have been shorter. Any thoughts on the broken bit appreciated.
So gave it a wash today and sorted my boost leak..it was actually the inlet to the intercooler and not the outlet. Released the clamps, took of the joiner hose, cleaned and refitted.
Only have a fone for pics but here's a couple of shots with the Vogtland kit fitted
The side shot reminds me that the lack of skirts needs sorted. Nothing fancy, just something to match with the level of the front and rear valances. I have a plan for this which has been done by someone else on this forum, made using guttering....
Sounds awful but actually looks tidy. I'll give that a go in a couple of weeks and maybe do a bit of a how to. If it doesn't turn out well, I'll pretend I never mentioned the idea.
Only have a fone for pics but here's a couple of shots with the Vogtland kit fitted
The side shot reminds me that the lack of skirts needs sorted. Nothing fancy, just something to match with the level of the front and rear valances. I have a plan for this which has been done by someone else on this forum, made using guttering....
Sounds awful but actually looks tidy. I'll give that a go in a couple of weeks and maybe do a bit of a how to. If it doesn't turn out well, I'll pretend I never mentioned the idea.
2
Golfy Wagon Rear Badge/Lock Removal and Paint
So I'm off for a few days and I'm skint so time for some poor man mods. Yesterday, I debadged the tailgate and I kinda like the clean look...intended to paint the letters satin black and refit but no doublesided tape + no cash × kinda like it = leave it as it is.
So, next step was to remove the rear badge/lock and paint in satin black and the plastic backing in matt black. Sort of a how to here but since I have no pc or laptop, I'm using my phone to take pics and write this. No fancy arrows or rings round bolts n stuff ok?
This is for the Mk4 Estate but the removal bit should be the same for the hatchback. Should you try to follow this guide and you break something or die, I accept no responsibility.
Pic no 1.
Remove the inner tailgate trim. Remove the single screw in each hand hold, they are only wee short ones and I used a pozi 1 bit to remove them. Careful not to drop them.
Pic no 2.
What you're doing is pulling the cover off. Couldn't do that and take pics ;-) Best to start at the left or right side of the boot catch, about 3" to left and right of it are the first of the "jesus" clips. Get mid and large size flat screwdrivers and cover with some cloth. Using the smaller of the 2, pry up the edge of the panel and then slide the bigger screwdriver in where the clip is and lever it out. Some force is required and when it pops, it is loud....jesus!! Then do the opposite side of the catch. Get a friend to hold the tailgate or...if you're like me and have no friends, work your fingers under the panel edge and pull the panel with one hand while holding the tailgate with the other. Try to pull straight out as opposed to at an angle. Bear in mind that if it is cold, the plastic will be brittle so be careful.
Pic no 3.
This shows the position of the clips to each side of the panel. There are 2 more along the top/middle.
Pic no 4.
This is a clip and the broken part of the holder on the inside of the panel, it's 2nd in from the side on the too edge but shouldn't be a problem. If there were more broken, then I'd look into sorting it.
So the panel should be off. Don't be afraid of it, once you have a corner and the centre unclipped, it should come off with a single yank.
Pic no 5.
Removing the lock and badge.
With the panel removed, you will see the wiper motor and below it, the locking mechanism and then the tailgate catch. There is a rod that attaches on a balljoint on the end of the lock, pop this off with a flat screwdriver. The rod hangs loose in the boot catch so just remove it and set with your other bits. I use a magnet when I'm removing and reusing little screws and bits. You can get magnetic parts trays but I am El Cheapo ;-)
Pic no 6.
Disconnect the lock motor connector blocks. At this point, put something at the boot catch that will prevent the tailgate from closing. Yes, it's an estate and you can climb through and push the rod to open it but....hassle.
Pic no 7.
Not the best pic but if you look at the back of the lock/badge, there are 3 Torx screws that hold it in place. Roughly at 2, 6 and 10 o'clock. You can see the 10 o'clock one just above the wire to the left. I think they are T25 or T27....I couldn't find either so used a small flathead bit :-\ They aren't that tight. Use a magnetic driver or a magnet to stop you dropping one of them.
With the 3 screws removed, the lock should pop out. Mine was a bit welded in with 14 years of MucknDirt™ so be gentle. Before you go any further, wipe around the hole....ooerr...so it's nice and clean for refitting.
Golfy Wagon paint badge prep...
So the lock/badge is out. Give it a wipe off to remove the MnD™
If you want to paint yours, walk this way.... if not, assembly is the reverse of removal
Pic no......no I can't remember what number we're on.
Get the badge off the mechanism. I removed the 2 silver screws on the back plate, the rubber backing gasket is still on the badge in that pic. Peel it off gently and clean it up for refitting.
I faffed around for a bit trying to get the chrome badge off the backing plate and I almost had it but I thought I was being a bit brutal. Then I realised that the chrome is attached to the black plastic backing plate. Wedged a screwdriver between the goldy back plate and the plastic backing plate and off it came. It's held on with doublesided spongy tape stuff.....err I don't have any and I'm skint....oh well, that's tomorrows problem
Pic no 9 I think...
The badge is off but still on the plastic backing plate. The badge is attached to the back plate using those melted rivet type things, you know like the plastic sticks through and then they melt the tip over? I used a 10mm drill bit and reamed the tops off the heads. Not in the drill, just held and twisted by hand. Et voila! Le badge is now separated.
Instead of painting the backplate, I'll vinyl wrap it, I'll use black but now is the time to consider another colour of your choice....If I had yellow vinyl, I would've used that as I like the contrast between yellow and black though on a silver car??? Maybe not...black it is then. And I keyed the chrome and fired a coat of Simoniz Tough Black satin on it earlier, left to dry, had a look just now and there's a wee run on it so it'll be flatted and redone tomorrow.
And that's as far as I've got today. Will update with the end result once repainted an dried.
So I'm off for a few days and I'm skint so time for some poor man mods. Yesterday, I debadged the tailgate and I kinda like the clean look...intended to paint the letters satin black and refit but no doublesided tape + no cash × kinda like it = leave it as it is.
So, next step was to remove the rear badge/lock and paint in satin black and the plastic backing in matt black. Sort of a how to here but since I have no pc or laptop, I'm using my phone to take pics and write this. No fancy arrows or rings round bolts n stuff ok?
This is for the Mk4 Estate but the removal bit should be the same for the hatchback. Should you try to follow this guide and you break something or die, I accept no responsibility.
Pic no 1.
Remove the inner tailgate trim. Remove the single screw in each hand hold, they are only wee short ones and I used a pozi 1 bit to remove them. Careful not to drop them.
Pic no 2.
What you're doing is pulling the cover off. Couldn't do that and take pics ;-) Best to start at the left or right side of the boot catch, about 3" to left and right of it are the first of the "jesus" clips. Get mid and large size flat screwdrivers and cover with some cloth. Using the smaller of the 2, pry up the edge of the panel and then slide the bigger screwdriver in where the clip is and lever it out. Some force is required and when it pops, it is loud....jesus!! Then do the opposite side of the catch. Get a friend to hold the tailgate or...if you're like me and have no friends, work your fingers under the panel edge and pull the panel with one hand while holding the tailgate with the other. Try to pull straight out as opposed to at an angle. Bear in mind that if it is cold, the plastic will be brittle so be careful.
Pic no 3.
This shows the position of the clips to each side of the panel. There are 2 more along the top/middle.
Pic no 4.
This is a clip and the broken part of the holder on the inside of the panel, it's 2nd in from the side on the too edge but shouldn't be a problem. If there were more broken, then I'd look into sorting it.
So the panel should be off. Don't be afraid of it, once you have a corner and the centre unclipped, it should come off with a single yank.
Pic no 5.
Removing the lock and badge.
With the panel removed, you will see the wiper motor and below it, the locking mechanism and then the tailgate catch. There is a rod that attaches on a balljoint on the end of the lock, pop this off with a flat screwdriver. The rod hangs loose in the boot catch so just remove it and set with your other bits. I use a magnet when I'm removing and reusing little screws and bits. You can get magnetic parts trays but I am El Cheapo ;-)
Pic no 6.
Disconnect the lock motor connector blocks. At this point, put something at the boot catch that will prevent the tailgate from closing. Yes, it's an estate and you can climb through and push the rod to open it but....hassle.
Pic no 7.
Not the best pic but if you look at the back of the lock/badge, there are 3 Torx screws that hold it in place. Roughly at 2, 6 and 10 o'clock. You can see the 10 o'clock one just above the wire to the left. I think they are T25 or T27....I couldn't find either so used a small flathead bit :-\ They aren't that tight. Use a magnetic driver or a magnet to stop you dropping one of them.
With the 3 screws removed, the lock should pop out. Mine was a bit welded in with 14 years of MucknDirt™ so be gentle. Before you go any further, wipe around the hole....ooerr...so it's nice and clean for refitting.
Golfy Wagon paint badge prep...
So the lock/badge is out. Give it a wipe off to remove the MnD™
If you want to paint yours, walk this way.... if not, assembly is the reverse of removal
Pic no......no I can't remember what number we're on.
Get the badge off the mechanism. I removed the 2 silver screws on the back plate, the rubber backing gasket is still on the badge in that pic. Peel it off gently and clean it up for refitting.
I faffed around for a bit trying to get the chrome badge off the backing plate and I almost had it but I thought I was being a bit brutal. Then I realised that the chrome is attached to the black plastic backing plate. Wedged a screwdriver between the goldy back plate and the plastic backing plate and off it came. It's held on with doublesided spongy tape stuff.....err I don't have any and I'm skint....oh well, that's tomorrows problem
Pic no 9 I think...
The badge is off but still on the plastic backing plate. The badge is attached to the back plate using those melted rivet type things, you know like the plastic sticks through and then they melt the tip over? I used a 10mm drill bit and reamed the tops off the heads. Not in the drill, just held and twisted by hand. Et voila! Le badge is now separated.
Instead of painting the backplate, I'll vinyl wrap it, I'll use black but now is the time to consider another colour of your choice....If I had yellow vinyl, I would've used that as I like the contrast between yellow and black though on a silver car??? Maybe not...black it is then. And I keyed the chrome and fired a coat of Simoniz Tough Black satin on it earlier, left to dry, had a look just now and there's a wee run on it so it'll be flatted and redone tomorrow.
And that's as far as I've got today. Will update with the end result once repainted an dried.
10
An update on rear badge painting. First coat was great but it was a bit thin with chrome showing through so stripped and repainted it. Got a wee fisheye on second go so stripped again and done again. The plastic backing is wrapped in matt black vinyl. Simoniz Tough Black was used to paint the badge.
Didn't wrap too well at the keyhole :-(
Happy enough with the result
Have new guides to fit to drivers window regulator, £2 off Amazon
Also sorted my drivers upper door hinge so just need to touch in the chipped paint at top rear corner of the door
Didn't wrap too well at the keyhole :-(
Happy enough with the result
Have new guides to fit to drivers window regulator, £2 off Amazon
Also sorted my drivers upper door hinge so just need to touch in the chipped paint at top rear corner of the door
2
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