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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
Hardly weird. Cars been sitting a while, so likely parked up with very little fuel in it. The sitting up has let the braid get wet and rot through. A bit unfortunate but its not far fetched. Your new starter is junk - you have bodged the connection in the hope to make it works. It'll likely happen again.
Ah I see. Well at least it’s working now.
I’ve looked at some videos on YouTube about refurbishing starter motors and I think I’m going to do that to fix the old one that came out.
Looks like an interesting job to learn to do.

Thanks for the help btw 👍
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
a non PD is a VE engine and they don't self bleed. the mechanical fuelpump (the one that has those pipes going to the injectors) can't compress air and has no way of getting rid of the air when using the startermotor... hence the tow-start recommendation.

but i agree with @adam- leaving the car sitting for a while without starting it at all can cause damp to cause a lot of electrical problems...
ok thanks mate.
So I did have to turn it over a lot before it started. It seems to be running ok now, but I haven’t taken it for a spin yet, as need to book new mot.

It may run a bit rough because of the air, you think?
If it does, I’ll do that towing thing. Yeah?

Thanks for you help btw 👍
 

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if it starts with the key you don't need to tow-start it just drive it normally that'll help the air getting returned to the tank where it actually get's vented out. it's the easiest way of sorting that out... if you can take the motorway to the MOT station and step on the go faster pedal in the first 3 gears when joining the motorway that should be more than enough.
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
Ok, so just got from MOT.
Failed as expected.
Not too bad, but a couple of big ones that I’m not sure about. Can you help please?
Or should I start a new thread?

1) Valve stem seriously damaged both sides.
Don’t even know what that means.
2) Exhaust on vehicle fitted with DPF emits visible smoke.
I hope I can fix that with additives?
3) Seat belt anchorage prescribed area strength significantly reduced o/s front (seatbelt mounting area floor plan).
Guess that’s a bit of welding on the floor?
4) Brake hose ferrule corroded o/s rear (in front of axle).
5) Suspension arm pin or bush excessively worn o/s front (rear bush).
Not sure which one they mean.

Any help would be much appreciated.
Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
Ok, so just got from MOT.
Failed as expected.
Not too bad, but a couple of big ones that I’m not sure about. Can you help please?
Or should I start a new thread?

1) Valve stem seriously damaged both sides.
Don’t even know what that means.
2) Exhaust on vehicle fitted with DPF emits visible smoke.
I hope I can fix that with additives?
3) Seat belt anchorage prescribed area strength significantly reduced o/s front (seatbelt mounting area floor plan).
Guess that’s a bit of welding on the floor?
4) Brake hose ferrule corroded o/s rear (in front of axle).
5) Suspension arm pin or bush excessively worn o/s front (rear bush).
Not sure which one they mean.

Any help would be much appreciated.
Thanks
Ah I just found out that the valve stem is just the tyres! Phew!
 

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1- have new valves fitted should set you back under a tenner
2- possibly the answer but imho a diesel that smokes needs new stem valve seals, and probably has a blocked PCV valve.. so have that diagnosed by a garage (compression test should point it out, if that is the case)
3-you'll need welding imho have it done properly, a bodyshop is more expensive but their work will be seamless and they do protect the welded area so it won't rust again.
4- you can buy OEM prefabricated replacements which means it's a simple replacement job, failing that a bodyshop is capable of making them from sratch and IMHO the better solution since you have to have the floor redone anyway.
5- just buy a replacement pattern part, they are cheap and come preassembled with bushes... Imho do both sides at the same time that way you won't notice the car pulling to the side with the older bushes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
1- have new valves fitted should set you back under a tenner
2- possibly the answer but imho a diesel that smokes needs new stem valve seals, and probably has a blocked PCV valve.. so have that diagnosed by a garage (compression test should point it out, if that is the case)
3-you'll need welding imho have it done properly, a bodyshop is more expensive but their work will be seamless and they do protect the welded area so it won't rust again.
4- you can buy OEM prefabricated replacements which means it's a simple replacement job, failing that a bodyshop is capable of making them from sratch and IMHO the better solution since you have to have the floor redone anyway.
5- just buy a replacement pattern part, they are cheap and come preassembled with bushes... Imho do both sides at the same time that way you won't notice the car pulling to the side with the older bushes.
Thanks for the reply mate.

1) I can get the tyres all done this week.

2) The valve seals looks like a big job.
Does that mean taking the engine apart? Head off etc? I don’t think I’ll try that myself.
If so, what can I do before that, to try and fix it myself?
3) I’d rather do as much of this work as I can, as I don’t have money at the moment.
I have an old golf sdi, so thought I could just cut out the same section and then weld it in where it’s needed?
4 & 5) could you point me towards the correct parts I need please? I’m trying to look but there are so many things coming up.

cheers
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
Ps. I’m grateful for you guys’ help. I know you love your Golfs and want the job done in the best way possible. I agree with that and I obviously want my car to last.

This is not my best Golf though.
I just need this one to pass the MOT, so I can drive it to my friend’s house where I have a bit of workshop space.

My plan for this car is as a donor car for my pd130 and another Golf.
Hence, I just need this car to pass this MOT.
If I can do it as cheaply as possible this time, I can hopefully do up my pd130 by the time the MOT runs out again on this one.
Hope that makes sense.

thanks again 🙏
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
Just been looking at the stem seals on YouTube. I really don’t want to be doing them if I don’t have to.
I think I’ll try some sealing additive first. Going to do some research on the best ones now.

Is this the pcv valve in the photo? Seems cheap enough so may as well change that anyway if this is the part.
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
Just been looking at the stem seals on YouTube. I really don’t want to be doing them if I don’t have to.
I think I’ll try some sealing additive first. Going to do some research on the best ones now.

Is this the pcv valve in the photo? Seems cheap enough so may as well change that anyway if this is the part.
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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
And I can’t see where the searbelt anchorage goes into the floor pan.
I can only assume they’ve got the actual place wrong.

I can see a corroded part underneath, but it’s notconnected to the seatbelt, I don’t think.

From what I can see, the seatbelt anchors to the side panel and the seatbelt plug is attached to the seat.
Automotive tire Bumper Vehicle Tire Automotive exterior


Here’s the rusted but I can see underneath floor pan.
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Rim Wood Gas
Automotive tire Tire Wheel Automotive lighting Motor vehicle
 

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you are right but that floor is an immediate fail so have that welded...
the valve stems replacement is a head off job... but as i stated have that diagnosed by a garage first, or do a compression test yourself if you have the tools for it... but that will point out if they are leaking, or of the PCV valve is just blocked, or if the piston rings are letting oil pass through thus burning oil.
the valve itself is cheap enough, but if it's not blocked there is no reason to replace it unless it is leaking oil ( means it's not sealing right and that is enough reason to replace it.
the wishbones (suspension arms) are cheap just replace both sides, yours is the older 110 bhp so they are the pressed ones, and they come with new bushes already pressed in for around 30 pounds of eBay ( stop gap car so why pay over the odds?) they are easy enough to replace so no headache there...

Back to the stem valve seats, I had to replace mine because i had a blocked PCV valve and noticed it to late... longstory short, I replaced every gasket,seal, tensioner, timingbelt, aux belt, roller, bearing (you name it) as i took the engine completely apart... than 2 weeks later i replaced the clutch and flywheel for a SMF (aluminium one) and clutch with a new clutch slave cylinder and bearing... but the difference being i had the right tools to do it... if you don't have it swapping the valve stem seals is a nightmare. and in that case i would take the head off and have it chemically cleaned or buy one from a shop that specializes in diesel heads... (basically it's just a simple swap with your head and you get a refurbished one with all the work done already) but that is only if it points to the valve stem seals being blown out... pushing them back in their seats doesn't work otherwise i would have done that myself ( i actually did that but they were all damaged and didn't really seal the valves of any more). You can try an additive but that will only work if they are still seated but have a bit of blow by.

in the end fin out what is cheaper to do, sometimes it is cheaper to just grab a replacement engine with lower miles from a scrapped car that runs just fine and sling that in than fixing the engine itself. but I'll leave that judgement to you and your budget (god knows the recession is bad enough) 6 years ago, a non PD 110 engine AHF or ASV was around 250 to 300 pounds with around 70k miles on the clock, with all auxiliaries.
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
you are right but that floor is an immediate fail so have that welded...
the valve stems replacement is a head off job... but as i stated have that diagnosed by a garage first, or do a compression test yourself if you have the tools for it... but that will point out if they are leaking, or of the PCV valve is just blocked, or if the piston rings are letting oil pass through thus burning oil.
the valve itself is cheap enough, but if it's not blocked there is no reason to replace it unless it is leaking oil ( means it's not sealing right and that is enough reason to replace it.
the wishbones (suspension arms) are cheap just replace both sides, yours is the older 110 bhp so they are the pressed ones, and they come with new bushes already pressed in for around 30 pounds of eBay ( stop gap car so why pay over the odds?) they are easy enough to replace so no headache there...

Back to the stem valve seats, I had to replace mine because i had a blocked PCV valve and noticed it to late... longstory short, I replaced every gasket,seal, tensioner, timingbelt, aux belt, roller, bearing (you name it) as i took the engine completely apart... than 2 weeks later i replaced the clutch and flywheel for a SMF (aluminium one) and clutch with a new clutch slave cylinder and bearing... but the difference being i had the right tools to do it... if you don't have it swapping the valve stem seals is a nightmare. and in that case i would take the head off and have it chemically cleaned or buy one from a shop that specializes in diesel heads... (basically it's just a simple swap with your head and you get a refurbished one with all the work done already) but that is only if it points to the valve stem seals being blown out... pushing them back in their seats doesn't work otherwise i would have done that myself ( i actually did that but they were all damaged and didn't really seal the valves of any more). You can try an additive but that will only work if they are still seated but have a bit of blow by.

in the end fin out what is cheaper to do, sometimes it is cheaper to just grab a replacement engine with lower miles from a scrapped car that runs just fine and sling that in than fixing the engine itself. but I'll leave that judgement to you and your budget (god knows the recession is bad enough) 6 years ago, a non PD 110 engine AHF or ASV was around 250 to 300 pounds with around 70k miles on the clock, with all auxiliaries.
Thanks so much for taking the time to give me all that info.

I don’t have a compression tester, but I would like one anyway, so better to buy one than pay a garage to doit I think.
Can I just google diesel compression tester kit and buy a universal one that comes up, or do I need something special for the golfs?

Im going to try and weld the floor myself. I haven’t welded in donkeys years, so will need to get used to the settings again, but I’m thinking, cut the matching floor piece out of my old sdi and just weld that in.

As for the valve seals, my budget doesn’t even cover fixing the rest of the car haha.
I’m praying the compression test doesn’t point to anything too bad.
If it does, I’ll have to do what you said and either get the head cleaned up.
Or, as I won’t have the money yet, I’d rather buy all the required tools and give it a go myself.
I had a look on the tube and it doesn’t seem to hard a job, albeit quite fiddly and some tools I don’t have.
I really enjoy working on the Golfs and I like to try jobs I’ve never done, which is most things apart from servicing, brakes and removing/replacing simple things like starter etc.
Do you know what tools I will need to do them myself? I won’t scrimp on tools, as I’ll be using them again.

thanks again
 

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you'll need a ton if you don't have most, but you will need a valve removal tool, a big one as the diesel heads are quite large, a big torque wrench ( preferably with a timing dial) at least 2 garage jacks, axles stands, and a very comprehensive socket and ratchet set, a good metric spanner set is handy to have, and a set of hex and torx sockets for your socket and ratchet set ( i have both the normal and extra long ones)

that is more than enough to tackle the job...

the question about the compression kit you need to look for one that is ready to be used on the vw pre PD diesel engines...
 

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Discussion Starter · #57 ·
you'll need a ton if you don't have most, but you will need a valve removal tool, a big one as the diesel heads are quite large, a big torque wrench ( preferably with a timing dial) at least 2 garage jacks, axles stands, and a very comprehensive socket and ratchet set, a good metric spanner set is handy to have, and a set of hex and torx sockets for your socket and ratchet set ( i have both the normal and extra long ones)

that is more than enough to tackle the job...

the question about the compression kit you need to look for one that is ready to be used on the vw pre PD diesel engines...
I should have said…I do have the basics.
I’ve got all the sockets and spanners and long/short torx set. Got trolley jacks and stands. Got torque wrench, but just a basic one.

So I’ll need:
a big valve removal tool.
A special vw compression tester.

happy days 👍👍👍
Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #58 ·
I just checked the “ferrule”.
Not sure which part it is, as it’s all badly rusted.
It says “brake hose ferrule excessively corroded o/s rear (in front of axle).”

I’m assuming it’s not the bit on the end of the flexi hose, as surely it would have stated to change that.
Must be the bit on the end of the copper pipe?

Wood Formation Tints and shades Bedrock Cave
Stonemason's hammer Wood Geologist's hammer Automotive tire Axe

These are the flexi end in front of the axle. I’ll change that anyway, but does he actually mean that bit? Or the other part, which I’ll picture now…

Wood Automotive tire Gas Automotive wheel system Pipe
Wood Auto part Automotive wheel system Natural material Automotive tire
Automotive tire Wood Tints and shades Rim Metal

this is the other end, but it’s not directly in frontof the axle as stated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
Also, been looking at the seal additives, as it won’t harm to use one beforehand I suppose.
I’d like to take it for the free retest next week and doubt I’ll have all the tools by then for the job.

Motor factor place told me I need Wynns Hydraulic Valve Lifter treatment.

but from what I’ve read, I most likely need something like “forte seal conditioner”.

or is it something different all together?
 

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They are on about the end bits of the pipes... so the lot needs to be replaced.

You can try both, but hydraulic valves are the tappets you'd hear them rattle about if they are bad, and to be fair the only real solution to that is to replace them the hydraulic valve treatments usually mask it for a short period of time.
 
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