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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Actually managed to find a proper Bosch part, the same as the one that came off.
Used, off the bay.
It came with a small defect. Connection still seems ok. Will it be ok if I just tape it up?

Automotive tire Gas Automotive exterior Bumper Wood
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Bumper Asphalt Automotive exterior
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Yeah it'll be fine... however I would clean that with an electrical contact cleaner first before taping it up. Bit that is me.
Thanks for the advice mate.
Unfortunately I already taped it and fitted it before seeing this.

Problem is still the same.
Not turning over. Not even a click.
Well it makes a small click and beeping noise when ignition turned on, but when I try to turn it over, nothing.
 

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There is a relay in the under the bonnet fusebox. Forgot what number it is but you can find that in the here on the owners manual or do a quick Google search.

They can be the problem and I thought you already tested if it wasn't the relay. (First thing to do with startermotor problems)
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
There is a relay in the under the bonnet fusebox. Forgot what number it is but you can find that in the here on the owners manual or do a quick Google search.

They can be the problem and I thought you already tested if it wasn't the relay. (First thing to do with startermotor problems)
Ok mate, thank you 🙏🙏🙏
I’ll try that today.
 

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Bridge between the solenoid (small single cable on the starter) and the main power cable. If it cranks, starter is good. If it doesn't, you have no power and/or ground or the starter is bad.

There is no relay that controls the starter. It's direct from the ignition switch. But I've already said - if it doesn't bump, you have another problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Bridge between the solenoid (small single cable on the starter) and the main power cable. If it cranks, starter is good. If it doesn't, you have no power and/or ground or the starter is bad.

There is no relay that controls the starter. It's direct from the ignition switch. But I've already said - if it doesn't bump, you have another problem.
Ok thanks mate.
I can do that with a power probe, right?
or just any old piece of wire?

Ok, but I don’t want to try and bump it again, as not on a hill and I’m on my own. Plus may be out of juice (although I doubt it).

As soon as I can get itto turn over, I’ll Chuck fuel in and go from there.

Does that sound sensible?
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
OK, so I bridged that like you said. Starter turns over fine. Won't start though, so I'm going to get fuel now.
At least I know the starter is fine though.
What do you suggest next?

Thanks again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
No EML that I can see. Do you have comms with the ECU with a scanner? It cut out - it's nothing to do with the starter. You have an electrical fault.
I have OBDLinkMX+
but it’s not for vw from what I’ve read. Maybe it will still do enough to get what I need?

Just put a few litres of fuel in and then it absolutely pissed down.

Gonna go back shortly with my probe and my mate will turn the key while I test that little wire.

Anything else I should do?
 

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This is the VE engine right? If that is the case they are notorious for not wanting to start if there is air in the fuel lines or the fuelpump. If you made sure the intank lift pump works just fine and there is fuel being pumped up to the filterhousing... don't bother trying to start it with the key... tow start it. This will get rid of the air that is locked inside the fuel lines and fuelpump.(it works because at 30mph the fuelpump actually turns that fast it is able to overcome the air in the fuelsystem.)


You can just have a mate turn the key while you crack every fuel line on the injectors to get rid of the excess air but it is way easier and faster to just tow start it... drive it for a few miles and low and behold the car should start of the key again.


That is If you've made sure the intank fuelpump works... also have to mention the relay for the fuelpump might be the problem as I owned a 1999 AHF myself and it had the faulty relay from the factory. I just bought a new one at Euro car parts as it was cheaper than getting it from the dealer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
This is the VE engine right? If that is the case they are notorious for not wanting to start if there is air in the fuel lines or the fuelpump. If you made sure the intank lift pump works just fine and there is fuel being pumped up to the filterhousing... don't bother trying to start it with the key... tow start it. This will get rid of the air that is locked inside the fuel lines and fuelpump.(it works because at 30mph the fuelpump actually turns that fast it is able to overcome the air in the fuelsystem.)


You can just have a mate turn the key while you crack every fuel line on the injectors to get rid of the excess air but it is way easier and faster to just tow start it... drive it for a few miles and low and behold the car should start of the key again.


That is If you've made sure the intank fuelpump works... also have to mention the relay for the fuelpump might be the problem as I owned a 1999 AHF myself and it had the faulty relay from the factory. I just bought a new one at Euro car parts as it was cheaper than getting it from the dealer.
thanks for the reply, but managed to get it going now. It was a very strange one, as a lot of little things seemed to happen at the same time, which made an easy diagnosis harder. I’ll explain now if I can.

firstly, to answer your question. I’m not sure if it’s a VE engine.
I don’t think it’s a PD.
Autodoc shows it as Golf IV HWTCHBACK (1J1) 81kw/110ps.

So,
*when I checked the starter using the piece of wire from the battery, it turns over.
*When I checked the wire to the solenoid, there is voltage going to it when I turn the key.
*When I plug the wire into the solenoid, it didn’t turn over.

So it must have been the connection from ignition wire to the solenoid.
fiddled it about a bit and it now works.
Going to buy some contact cleaner and try and clean the connection so it’s got better contact.
Do you think that’s all it was?

The reason I say it’s weird is because it just cut out while running.
It looks like it had actually run out of fuel, as it took a lot of turning over just now until it started.
But when it first cut out, I checked the starter, as shown in previous pics on this thread, and the braided wire from brushes to solenoid was completely corroded and snapped. Hence why I thought it was the starter.
Then, the connection was poor.

So all in all, this problem was:
1) ran out of fuel.
2) starter wire snapped.
3) no connection on ignition wire to starter.

How the heck does all that happen.
It’s a sign. Maybe she wants to go to the scrapyard and not the MOT station? Weird little car. I’m rebooking the MOT today whether she likes it or not ha
 

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Hardly weird. Cars been sitting a while, so likely parked up with very little fuel in it. The sitting up has let the braid get wet and rot through. A bit unfortunate but its not far fetched. Your new starter is junk - you have bodged the connection in the hope to make it works. It'll likely happen again.
 

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a non PD is a VE engine and they don't self bleed. the mechanical fuelpump (the one that has those pipes going to the injectors) can't compress air and has no way of getting rid of the air when using the startermotor... hence the tow-start recommendation.

but i agree with @adam- leaving the car sitting for a while without starting it at all can cause damp to cause a lot of electrical problems...
 
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