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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
As it seems the same ARB / air ride / frame laying / engine spacers / air ride / coilovers / chassis notch questions and threads are popping up more and more i'll try and cover it all in this thread with pics and info.

i will add to this when i get home and have access to my photo bucket, so please allow me to get it all down before posting [Y]
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
ENGINE SPACERS

seems i did a how to on engine spacers a while ago on here on my S3 but is exact same deal as a mk4 / bora

i only recommend fitting 15mm as any more puts stress on dogbone / exhaust / hoses etc etc

and NEVER fit a dogbone spacer - if you catch that then it's bye bye gearbox

the spacers 15mm - obviously only 2 needed per car

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the bay

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cover removed

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filter off to reveal the mount

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one bolt can be seen in the above pic others are here

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before you undo these, jack the car up and put a second jack or axle stand under the gearbox to support the weight. when the bolts are removed, raise the car or lower the engineto give you access to slide the mount out

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these are the parts all removed

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now you can slide the spacer into position

http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/kk32/ollethalb/projects/enginespacers-211010014.jpg

and the post spacer

http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/kk32/ollethalb/projects/enginespacers-211010017.jpg

you can now slot the mount back into position. i hadn't got longer bolts as i wanted to use genuine vag items, so i raided my bolt box and found the most suitable length bolts to use (these will be replaced with new items now i know what ones i need)

http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/kk32/ollethalb/projects/enginespacers-211010015.jpg

now the mount can be bolted back in place - best to bolt to the body first then raise the box into position and then bolt the mount to the box.

http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/kk32/ollethalb/projects/enginespacers-211010018.jpg

http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/kk32/ollethalb/projects/enginespacers-211010019.jpg

onto the drivers side - again jack the car up and support the weight of the engine

cover off

http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/kk32/ollethalb/projects/enginespacers-211010006.jpg

header tank out

http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/kk32/ollethalb/projects/enginespacers-211010021.jpg

carbon canister out

http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/kk32/ollethalb/projects/enginespacers-211010023.jpg

then pull the p/s tank res out of the way and undo the brace (lost a few pics here)

i didn't have to remove the mount completely, just loosen the bolts and raise the engine the slide the spacer in

http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/kk32/ollethalb/projects/enginespacers-211010024.jpg

http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/kk32/ollethalb/projects/enginespacers-211010025.jpg

i used the same longer vag bolts as used on the gearbox mount and bolted it down, then added the post spacer

http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/kk32/ollethalb/projects/enginespacers-211010027.jpg

refitted the brace and p/s res

http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/kk32/ollethalb/projects/enginespacers-211010028.jpg

refitted the carbon canister, header tank and both covers

http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/kk32/ollethalb/projects/enginespacers-211010032.jpg

pic from before the spacers

http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/kk32/ollethalb/projects/s3-211010001.jpg

and after

http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/kk32/ollethalb/projects/enginespacers-211010029.jpg

http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/kk32/ollethalb/projects/enginespacers-211010031.jpg

i'm happy with the results!

tools used were;

10mm, 13mm, 16mm, 18mm sockets 5mm allen key flat head and phillips screwdriver

1/2 ratchet and long extension bar, 3/4 ratchet and mid extension bar

cutters, pliers and a lever bar

http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/kk32/ollethalb/projects/enginespacers-211010020.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
CHASSIS NOTCH

notching the chassis to stop the driveshaft contacting it when driving low or to lay frame on aired mk4's

the notch is only needed on the drivers side, at what point you need one depends on the engine / gearbox and what coilovers you run. so the only sure way to know is if you are contacting the chassis with your shaft then it's time to get a notch.

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best method i've found is remove the strut and driveshaft and in some cases the hub.

use a 76mm hole saw to cut a decent sized section out of the chassis, make sure the hole is in the right place.

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then weld 3-4mm steel in the cut out, 76mm OD pipe is easiest to use, trim the steel so it's all flush with the edges. make sure the steel is seam welded inside and outside.

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finish off with some seam sealer or underseal and the paint

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
LAYING FRAME - subframe / wishbones (getting the subframe to touch the floor to acheive maximum lowson air ride mk4's)

there are a couple of things that hold the car up and prevent it laying frame on the mk4

obviously as above a notch is needed but after that it's the subframe

when on stock wishbones and hubs the angle of the wishbone is quite severe when aired out

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the wishbone contacts the subframe here

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and here

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to go lower you must trim these parts off although not advised as this part is right next to on of the main subframe bolts

the best option is to fit R32 / TT / S3 hubs and cast wishbones, the hubs have a greater distance between the driveshaft hole in the hub and where the ball joint bolts on.

TT

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stock

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this reduces the angle of the wishbones and stops the contact between wishbone and subframe.

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also the track rod ends bolt onto the underside of the hub so gives extra room between the track rod and the chassis

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the TT set up also keeps camber closer to correct when aired out
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
ANTI ROLL BARS

the mk4 front wheel drives have an arb that links the front wishbones via a pair of drop links, when lowering the mk4 / bora the angle of the drivers side shaft comes into contact with the ARB.

the problem is the ARB loops over the driveshaft

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how low you can go before the shaft sits on the ARB angain depends on model, smaller engines have thinner shafts and thinner ARBs so can get a little lower before contact

FK released an ARB with larger hoops

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unfortunately it only gave a little more clearance, as you lower the car the hoops spin back towards the rear of the car and the shaft rubs the front of the hoop, shorter droplinks can allow a little more room but still minimal

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for a while it seemed prayers were answered when whiteline produced an anti roll bar that went under the shafts and used standard droplinks, just as everyone latched onto this, whiteline revised the design with an extra bend, this resulted in contact with the wishbones when low, people attempted to solve this with adjustable drop links to bring the ARBoff the wishbones but this brang it into contact with the driveshaft.

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the TT / S3 / v64mo and R32 came with an ARB that goes under the shaft, the problem is they are slightly narrower than the normal ARB, you can join them to the wishbones with standard droplinks but they sit at an awkward angle, it still functions but is not ideal

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the best option is to use the TT droplinks

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and connect them to the coilovers

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unfortunately low end coilovers do not have the tab needed to bolt the droplinks to the coilover body -

jom - no tabs

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weitecs show the tab

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