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garage door opener (wink, wink)

3K views 29 replies 9 participants last post by  oatz 
#1 ·
so the question is does anyone know how to fit one to an R32 please?

couldn't help but notice that GTIfly had one fitted?

Many Thanks in advance[:)]
 
#7 ·
Fitting is easy, shouldnt take more than an hour tops.

I'll try and do a bullit point guide to help u along

The main unit needs to be placed underneath the numberplate, so u can screw the holding bracket into the bumper itself

The unit needs to be angled so it is 100% level to the ground, so it's
useful to park the car on a level ground, and line up the unit so its
true.

U will need to yank out the R32's lower black meshing's to get the unit
mounted so it doesnt stick out too far.. sorry should have said that 2 lines earlier! They are
only clipped in place with lots of metal clips. Becareful
not to loose the clips as they are very fiddley.

Run the power cable alongside the bonnet release cable, which goes
along the grille, then up along the engine bay, then underneath the
windscreen scuttle. Use Zip ties to make everything nice and tidy.

U need to take off the windscreen scuttle panel - Need to undo
both wiper arms completely - each one is held on by one nut under the
black caps.

The arms themselves might be quite tricky to pull off, depending how
rusted on they are. Take ur time, use some penetrating oil to
free the arm from the shaft. It will come off, it's just a
matter of patience..

Now u need to run the cable into the cabin. U will need to prod a
screwdriver threw one of the rubber grommets on the firewall.
This will allow u to feed the powercable into the cabin and directly
under the dashboard to the right of the steering wheel area.

Get inside the car and u will need to remove the lower dashboard panels from around the steering wheel.

To do this, take off the dashboard end plastic (the one where the fuse
box cover is). Yank it off, it's tight, but it's only clipped in.

Then u need to undo the two large lower panels under the steering
wheel. These are screwed in by about 3 or 4 torx screws (go buy a
torx screwdriver set!) Also an electric screwdriver is so much
more useful to have to hand now!

Basically remove all the lower dash area under the steering
wheel, enough to allow u to see the whole u've just made, and so
that u can reach up and pull the power cable through.

Now it's time to wire up your switch, led and buzzer.

Where u put the power switch is up to u. I suggest u put it
somewhere out of sight, but somewhere where u reach it quickly if u
need to switch it off....

The buzzer can stay under the dash out of sight, as they are normally very loud indeed.

U can take power supply from the relay section under the steering
column. If my memory serves me well, there are 3 to which u
can undo the nuts and take one of each:

Power

Earth

Ignition

All will be obvious when u get down and have a look.

Once it's all wired up, fit everything back the way it came off.

Note:

Use some rubber sealent (or bathroom silicon sealent) around the
grommet where u pushed the power cable through the engine bay to cabin.

This will prevent dampness reaching inside the car..

Refit the scuttle and wiper arms, paying attention to fitting the
wipers back at the same 'rest' position. It might be handy to
have made a marker point by using some masking tape along the
wiperblade edge on the windscreen..

Hope that all makes some sense!
 
#8 ·
I have one also fitted to the front grill on my V5, but I never got the
RA2 interface cable to fire it up, so it's just sitting there.

Does anyone have the wiring diagram from the LCR 100 door opener so that I can get mine installed completely ?
I still have my manual in the garage, but it was utterly confusing!

what trouble are u having, I'll see if i can talk u thru it
 
#10 ·
Thanks Gary,

I have the switch installed but I didn't get any additional wiring for
inside the vehicle, as I had ordered the RA2 interface cable, that
never materialised. But I did get a Origin B2 interface cable. So I was
thinking of cutting this so I didn't have to remove the PS2 style
connector of the LCR.

Hopefully the wire colours inside the B2 cable will be the say as the above.
 
#15 ·
Fitting is easy, shouldnt take more than an hour tops.

I'll try and do a bullit point guide to help u along

The main unit needs to be placed underneath the numberplate, so u can screw the holding bracket into the bumper itself
The unit needs to be angled so it is 100% level to the ground, so it's useful to park the car on a level ground, and line up the unit so its true.
U will need to yank out the R32's lower black meshing's to get the unit mounted so it doesnt stick out too far.. sorry should have said that 2 lines earlier! They are only clipped in place with lots of metal clips. Becareful not to loose the clips as they are very fiddley.

Run the power cable alongside the bonnet release cable, which goes along the grille, then up along the engine bay, then underneath the windscreen scuttle. Use Zip ties to make everything nice and tidy.

U need to take off the windscreen scuttle panel - Need to undo both wiper arms completely - each one is held on by one nut under the black caps.
The arms themselves might be quite tricky to pull off, depending how rusted on they are. Take ur time, use some penetrating oil to free the arm from the shaft. It will come off, it's just a matter of patience..

Now u need to run the cable into the cabin. U will need to prod a screwdriver threw one of the rubber grommets on the firewall. This will allow u to feed the powercable into the cabin and directly under the dashboard to the right of the steering wheel area.

Get inside the car and u will need to remove the lower dashboard panels from around the steering wheel.
To do this, take off the dashboard end plastic (the one where the fuse box cover is). Yank it off, it's tight, but it's only clipped in.
Then u need to undo the two large lower panels under the steering wheel. These are screwed in by about 3 or 4 torx screws (go buy a torx screwdriver set!) Also an electric screwdriver is so much more useful to have to hand now!

Basically remove all the lower dash area under the steering wheel, enough to allow u to see the whole u've just made, and so that u can reach up and pull the power cable through.

Now it's time to wire up your switch, led and buzzer.

Where u put the power switch is up to u. I suggest u put it somewhere out of sight, but somewhere where u reach it quickly if u need to switch it off....
The buzzer can stay under the dash out of sight, as they are normally very loud indeed.

U can take power supply from the relay section under the steering column. If my memory serves me well, there are 3 to which u can undo the nuts and take one of each:

Power
Earth
Ignition

All will be obvious when u get down and have a look.

Once it's all wired up, fit everything back the way it came off.

Note:
Use some rubber sealent (or bathroom silicon sealent) around the grommet where u pushed the power cable through the engine bay to cabin.
This will prevent dampness reaching inside the car..

Refit the scuttle and wiper arms, paying attention to fitting the wipers back at the same 'rest' position. It might be handy to have made a marker point by using some masking tape along the wiperblade edge on the windscreen..

Hope that all makes some sense!
Sorry to dig this up from the past but I have only just got around to doing this....

Gti fly did you mount your defuser behind or in front of the centre bumper mesh?? You mentioned removing the mesh in order to install the defuser but I wasn't too sure whether you left the mesh off or replaced it etc.. apologies for the ignorance

I am thinking of mounting mine behind (for stealth/security reasons) but it got me thinking that by mounting it behind the mesh could possibly hinder the defusers performance as its partially obscured by the plastic mesh…)

Any thoughts or picts on this would greatly appreciated as I am determined to fit mine today

Many Thanks
 
#16 ·
I mounted mine under the numberplate, infront of the black mesh. this meant that I had to trim some of the mesh to allow the diffuser to be adequatly bolted onto the bumper.

If u stick it behind the mesh, u may run the chance of it not working when the time comes..

Which unit are u fitting now? I've now got a Laser Park Pro
 
#18 ·
No pic I'm afraid, not much to see to be honest, It's litterally just located underneath the number plate(bang smack in the middle of the car) , just a few mm behind it so it's not poking out.

I've also seen some people stick them to the underside of one of the bonnet Grille slats (next to the big VW bonnet badge)
 
#19 ·
Right, I think i'm about to win the most annoying post award 2006....

I am at the final stage of the installation...the wiring part...

I have looked underneath the steering column, i.e directly above the pedels and I have found what looks like the relay you're talking about as I can see what looks like a pretty serious bit of industrial type wiring/board - Basically it has about 4 screws with one of them labelled "Diesel" with a black sticker. The others are labelled in red stickers. This wiring/board is on the right hand side. Does this sound correct?

If not, I was thinking of connecting via the power and earth from the stereo and then using the blue amp lead as a switch (as the defuser does not come with a switch) This way if for some unknown reason, I needed to switch it off all I have to do is turn the stereo off/take the faceplate off.

Do you think this would OK to do??

Cheers for the patience!
 
#20 ·
Under the steering column, u will see a what I mean, there is atleast one earthing point, Undo the 5mm nut and tap your earth point there.

Same principle applies for Live and switched ignition, they are all there, and held on by 5mm nuts.

If u can take a pic of the underdash area, and post it up, I can show u which ones I mean.
 
#23 ·
Does this help;

Posted Image


Posted Image


As for the power and ground;

Switched 12v Power
To power your gauges you'll need a switched 12 volt source.
When connected to the correct power source your gauges will be active
only with the ignition on and your battery will not be drained.
In the mk4 chassis a switched 12v power source can be found on
the relay block under the dash. To access this block, remove the left
dashboard trim panel and the rubbery panel above the pedal cluster.
Above the clutch pedal you'll find a relay block consisting of 5-6 relays.
Each relay has a studded terminal with a 10mm nut. The relay labeled
75X should be hot with the ignition on or engine running. You may
connect your red power wires to this relay using the included ring
terminals.
Ground
Ground is a simple connection in any VW. Because they use a
common chassis ground, all you have to do is locate a screw that connects
to the chassis. In the mk3 and mk4 chassis, a convenient location is the
dashboard support. With your lower dash panels removed, locate a
screw which connects the plastic dash panels to the metal dashboard
support. Remove the screw and sand any paint of corrosion off the metal
12
to ensure a good connection. Then, ground your wire using the included
ring terminal.
http://www.42draftdesigns.com/installation/WEB_Edition1Volume4.pdf Page 6
 
#26 ·
Gosh, half the pic is missing, can't see the wires properly.

anyway, the earth is not in this pic, u will find it just above, with a nut and a brown wire coming off it. This is ur earthing point.

The live feed should be any of the red ones marked '30'

And I believe the switched ignition is the one on the left in your pic.

Strange how ur car shows diesel, i dont remember mine being like that
 
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