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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My 2004 130 ASZ 6 speed has 170k miles, but in the last 20k miles has had all new Lemfoeder ball joints, tie rod ends and inner tie rod to rack joints and has just passed its MOT with no advisories.

I can hear and feel a knock/clunk from the front drivers side front suspension when we go over bumps, even smaller ones which is not steering or steering angle related.

I've had it up in the air and can't spot anything excessively worn or loose.

Where and more importantly how do I start to trace this?
 

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Top mounts or wishbone bushes potentially.

Could even be your driver's seat, common for the seat rail joints to loosen up and make a clunk over bumps, mine does it but I've never fixed it. The fix entails hitting the flared joint with a hammer to squash it down.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Top mounts or wishbone bushes potentially.

Could even be your driver's seat, common for the seat rail joints to loosen up and make a clunk over bumps, mine does it but I've never fixed it. The fix entails hitting the flared joint with a hammer to squash it down.
Thanks - I can just about feel it in the steering wheel, so I'm confident (as I can be) that it's not the seat.

How to I diagnose a top mount or wishbone bush when everything feels tight - what am I looking for and how to test?
 

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Thanks - I can just about feel it in the steering wheel, so I'm confident (as I can be) that it's not the seat.

How to I diagnose a top mount or wishbone bush when everything feels tight - what am I looking for and how to test?
Top mounts a visual check of the gap at the top of the strut. The gap between the top cap on the strut and the body, under the bonnet. It's not a definitive check, but a big gap will tell you the mounts are worn, assuming they're stock mounts. You'd also get a rubber rubbing noise when turning at low speeds, but sounds like you haven't got any noise like that.

Wishbones are a visual check, moreso the rear bush. Check for splits, tears, and the rubber bush separating from the metal race that houses it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Top mounts a visual check of the gap at the top of the strut. The gap between the top cap on the strut and the body, under the bonnet. It's not a definitive check, but a big gap will tell you the mounts are worn, assuming they're stock mounts. You'd also get a rubber rubbing noise when turning at low speeds, but sounds like you haven't got any noise like that.

Wishbones are a visual check, moreso the rear bush. Check for splits, tears, and the rubber bush separating from the metal race that houses it.
Thanks, I took the cap off the top of the strut and everything appeared tight and snug, so will get it up in the air again and look more closely at the control arm bushes.
 

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My money would be on wish bone bushes. Had one done after the MOT and has cured the noise that you have described. You won't fail an MOT on the bush because they aren't allowed to manipulate it in such a way for the test is what I was told.

Easier to change the arms in one rather than just bushes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
With the car up in the air today to do the oil change, I had a look to see if I could find any play in anything but all felt and appeared solid and tight round the drop links bushes and arms etc.

Then it dawned on me that I'd never spot a worn top mount with the weight of the car on the strut, so whilst it was in the air, I grabbed the coil spring and BINGO the entire top of the strut moved in the the top mount by about 5-10mm. Tried the passenger side but that only had a slight rock.

Please could the enlightened advise what part do I need to replace - i.e a link to the actual component rather than just the name of it to help remove any misunderstanding on my part.

On the exploded parts diagrams I can find on line there are bearings, nuts, caps, all sorts of bits and bobs and I'm not sure what part actually wears out to cause this free play.

Thanks in advance everyone.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks - I replaced these at the weekend and the knock is fixed.

My observations from doing the job both sides is that despite removing the anti-roll bar drop link and all the cables etc, my suspension would not droop sufficiently to permit the bottom of the strut to pop out the arm. It was free and sliding in and out easily, but was effectively binding on its own mechanism and even levering it down with a block of wood would not produce sufficient droop. In the end i had to use spring compressors to collapse the strut enough to get them out.

Some videos show the detachment of the front drive shaft and three lower control arm bolts which would make sense, but other do not do this and show the arm dropping sufficiently - mine didn't. If I were to ever do the job again, I'd unbolt the axle for sure.
 
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