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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Was on the drive into work this morning, when after a 1/3 into my journey the temp warning indicator came on. The temp was showing 130 degrees [:'(]. I pulled the car over and popped the bonnet. The coolent was boiling in the expansion tank. Though sh!t, whats up. I did notice that the two fans at the front of the engine where not spinning, After 10 mins i set off again...

Within 1 min, temp warning light came on again[:(], Pulled over again and popped the bonnet, so me baby would cool down..

Called the breakdown folk, who said 1hrs[:(], Next i opened the fuse box, as i thought the fuse for the fans may have blown. swap over the fuse and the fans started spining. Put the original fuse back in and again the fans were now spinning.

took a chance and decided to cancel the call out and proceed to work. Got to work nps, drove around a fair bit today with no probs[:)]

Can anyone suggest, what the hell happened?[:O]
 

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Cooroded fuse connection? I think another forum member mentioned that their fuses on top of their battery wasn't looking too great recently.

Perhaps a faulty fuse itself?

Also worth checking the water pump is okay. There have been a few threads on this recently too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Cooroded fuse connection? I think another forum member mentioned that their fuses on top of their battery wasn't looking too great recently.

Perhaps a faulty fuse itself?

Also worth checking the water pump is okay. There have been a few threads on this recently too.
Hi m8ty,

Had a water pump fitted with a new cam belt about 2K miles ago.

The fused looked fine and it worked in the wiper fuse slot.

Weird one, do you all think?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Read the link in my sig about the fans
I did exactly that m8 and registered my vote. Are we any nearer to get a free replacement?

My fan run constant with AC on, and off and on with AC off..

Still a weird one. but i spose we have been having extremely hot weather!![:O]
 

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Might be worth getting the thermostat checked out cause if it don't open the hot water don't go past the sensors that turn the fans on. Had mine checked today for similar symptoms but looks like i'll need a new pump.
 

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I had that once on mine - I changed the fuse for a new one and no problem since. You could see where the fuse contact had heated the plastic of the fuse box. This was the 30amp fuse in the fuse tray on top of the battery.
 

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I have just had a very similar problem!

Diving back home when I got the STOP error and noticed the temp was 130
Surprise [:O]


Pulled over straight away thinking I was out of coolant. checked coolant OK.

I noticed the fan didnt appear to be working - however ignition was on, engine was not turning.

Waited a couple of minutes and temp dropped - managed to drive about another mile before it happened again. Waited again then managed to get home - just as it was approaching 130!

First things first - checked this forum and found this thread. Removed the fuse from the fuesbox inside the car and put the same fuse back in.

Had the car running in the drive now for 20 mins. As soon as temperature creeps above 90 the fan kicks in - hey presto.

Can anyone explain what happened and if my car should be OK?

Cheers! ****
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
This problem got solved on Friday. The 30A fan run on fuse, that is located near the battery had melted onto its slot.

Put in another fuse and cut away the burnt plastic to expose the contacts.

Fans are back working now.

My problem today is my engine fell out!!! :(
 

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Well my cars still in the garage.

Had the thermostat / fan switch replaced - also got them to flush the radiator etc.

Got a call back on Saturday to say car is still overheating - they say it's either the water pump / head gasket / blockage in radiator.

After reading this thread it sounds like a water pump problem - Any ideas how much a replacement one would cost? I gather its also worth changing the cam belt?

For info, cars done 65K.
 

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Just spoke to my local stealers to get an idea of the cost. They said ?350 for the pump / belt and tensioner.

Will see what my local garage say they can do it for.

VW also said that the water pump still has plastic impellors! So no doubt we can all expect pump problems in the future!
Angry [:@]
 

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Just spoke to my local stealers to get an idea of the cost. They said ?350 for the pump / belt and tensioner.

Will see what my local garage say they can do it for.

VW also said that the water pump still has plastic impellors! So no doubt we can all expect pump problems in the future! [:mad:]
 

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go to german sweedish or the like and get a replacement water pump with a metal impellor (fan) on it, replace the cambelt and all associated tensioners (that bit very important) and while your there you might as well replace the aux belt (tthe one that drives the power steering etc) and its tensioner. Get orig VW bits for all except for the water pump, these are best sourced from an auto factors because afaik VW still use plastic impellors (Doh).

Should cost about ?250 -300 for the pleasure!
 

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Following on from my previous post - spoke to my local mechanic today - after flushing the radiator, there is still a problem.

They say the heater is slightly warmer now and the radiator is hot at the top but cold at the bottom.

They have tried a flow test with the radiator in situe, looked ok, but they said not a true test as both the pipes are on the same side of the Rad.

Does this still sound like a water pump? If not, Radiator blocked?

Any advice really appreciated.
 
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